| BRL | -- 01-20-2022 @ 12:00 PM |
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Hi Guys: The fuel gauge on my 37 Phaeton (78-750, all original) doesnt work so I thought I would start investigating the fuel tank. I am pretty sure the tank is the original design as it has the 6 screw attachment for the sending unit. I removed the sending unit and it is rusted solid and the float is plastic and falling apart...so this is at least part of the problem. I decided I would drain the tank since there is a convenient drain plug to inspect what the condition of the bottom of the tank may be since this vehicle is new to me, although I have filled the tank recently and it drives fine. This made me start to wonder what the fuel pick up design is on this car...is there a fuel pick up tube with any type of screen inside the tank? Is the pick up tube integral to the tank? Is there any service operation I can do to make sure the pick up inside the tank is not clogged? Regards, BRL
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 01-20-2022 @ 2:00 PM |
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I would remove the gas tank, and have it boiled out by a radiator repair shop and then use EASTWOODS gas tank cleaner and sealer this will seal it but you can try to do it yourself if tank is not that bad, I have used water and BOX 5/16 steel nuts,[or similar ] and rocked the tank and back and forth TUMBLE it over and over, keep rinsing the tank out, once it looks clean, use a magnet and remove the steel nuts, set in sun to dry it out, then use the EASTWOOD KIT, do this out side, and have no flames near by I have done this several times, with great success hope this helps, 37Ragtopman Maine 78- 760-A This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 1-25-22 @ 1:47 PM
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| BRL | -- 01-20-2022 @ 3:26 PM |
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Hi again: After closer inspection of my sending unit, I think it is the original one to the car as it has a K-S logo on the top and is slightly domed as in the 37 Ford Book. I thought the float was plastic because it was thin walled and bright green but I think it is actually brass or copper and the bright green color is the corrosion from many years. Regards, BRL
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| MG | -- 01-20-2022 @ 4:49 PM |
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See these threads > https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=220451&highlight=gas+tank+sending+unit+operation https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=165773&highlight=king+seely https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=223723&highlight=gas+tank+sending+unit
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| trjford8 | -- 01-21-2022 @ 7:49 AM |
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The pickup tube lays on the bottom of the tank and is attached to the fitting where your regular gas line goes to the front of the car. There is no screen attached to the line in the tank.
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| TomO | -- 01-21-2022 @ 8:11 AM |
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"Sending unit is rusted solid and the float is plastic and falling apart...so this is at least part of the problem." Try soaking the sending unit in Evapo-Rust to remove the rust and free up the mechanism. Make sure that the diaphragm is not rusted through and then you should be able to use the sending unit. If the diaphragm is rusted through, look for another sending unit. You can use the sending unit from any Ford, Lincoln or Mercury from 1936-1955. You will have to modify the arm on sending units later than 1941. "I decided I would drain the tank since there is a convenient drain plug to inspect what the condition of the bottom of the tank may be since this vehicle is new to me, although I have filled the tank recently and it drives fine. This made me start to wonder what the fuel pick up design is on this car...is there a fuel pick up tube with any type of screen inside the tank? Is the pick up tube integral to the tank? Is there any service operation I can do to make sure the pick up inside the tank is not clogged? " The pickup tube is part of the outlet fitting and would be difficult to replace. I just use compressed air through the outlet to make sure that it is open. If you haven't been able to open the drain plug, you can try the method that I use: I use a 10" 0r 12" Crescent type adjustable wrench and close it down to the drain plug size. That ususally gives me enough leverage to remove the plug. If that doesn't work, take it to a radiator shop and have them boil the tank out for you. I have used Bill Hirsch's tank sealer on both of my cars and I like the way that it flows to seal the inside of the tank and protect it from rust. You don't need a thick coating, but I would follow the directions to put the second coat on. Tom
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| BRL | -- 01-21-2022 @ 8:25 AM |
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Hi Guys: Thanks for all the good info. So now I have a good understanding of how the OEM fuel indication system works. Today I will drain the tank to see if I can determine its condition by what comes out...I have a feeling I will be dropping the tank and taking it to my local radiator shop for cleaning. I will treat it with Hirsch's sealer if I have to have the tank cleaned. I am soaking the fuel sender in CRL right now...when it gets reasonably clean I will try to pry the top off to gauge the condition of the internals. I have contacted a couple of companies that rebuild these things (Bob's Speedometer, Clocks and Gauges-dot-com, Tri-Starr) so I may see if they can rebuild vs buying one for a later model. I will also do the advised test of my gauge to see if it is OK. I will advise on this posting how it all turns out. Regards, BRL
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| 40 Coupe | -- 01-21-2022 @ 10:29 AM |
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Suggest you lube the pivot points with penetrating oil and see if you can get the arm with the float to move again. Liquid toilet bowl cleaner can clean brass very quickly. Since the outside portion of the sender is electrical avoid any liquids in this area. Replacement floats are available. If you get the arm to move you can test operation outside the tank by adding a jumper from a good ground point to the metal case of the sender and a second jumper from the wire to the center top terminal.
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| TomO | -- 01-22-2022 @ 8:25 AM |
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CLR is an acid based product and i would not use it on a sending unit. It can damage brass and copper. Evapo-Rust is a water based product that is safe for brass and copper. Tom
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| BRL | -- 01-25-2022 @ 10:19 AM |
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Hi Tom: Well, I should have followed your advice about using Evapo-Rust on the sender instead of CRL but I was moving too fast. Anyway, after immersing it for 24 hrs, I cleaned the outside and scr*ped off any crusted rust. I popped off the cover and the insides appeared clean and dry so the rubber seal on the cover and diaphragm on bottom appear to be intact. With a little bit of gentle exercise I got the float arm free and it pivots full travel but is still a bit stiff. Although the inside electrics and mechanisms all appear intact I decided I needed expert evaluation and testing to see if it was restorable. So I sent it yesterday to a company called KM Lifestyle Mfg in MA to work on it and hopefully restore it to proper working order. More info will come as I progress through this fuel system clean-up and repair. Regards, BRL
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