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46coupe
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-- 11-14-2021 @ 8:15 AM
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Clutch chatter is still present. I replaced the clutch assembly, clutch, pressure plate,, etc. Had the pressure plate trued also. I've just replaced the motor mounts and I had been tightening the take up rods until I read here that that didn't do much good. Is there anything else I can do to eliminate the chatter.?
I've experimented with various clutch release patterns and engagements also. Any help will be appreciated.
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carcrazy
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-- 11-14-2021 @ 8:22 AM
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Anything that mounts the driveline to the chassis can have an effect on clutch chatter. Make sure the motor mounts, transmission mounts, rear spring mounts and rear shock absorber mounts are all in good condition and tight. If the rear shock mounts are worn and/or sloppy, the vehicle will experience extreme clutch chatter when backing up.
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37RAGTOPMAN
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-- 11-14-2021 @ 11:08 AM
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clutch chatter,
Was there any play in the UNIVERSAL joint ?
also how was the flywheel, was that machined also ?
did you replace the pilot bearing ?
was the input shaft to the transmission worn, were it goes into the pilot bearing,
any worn gears in the transmission,
maybe the clutch needs to be broken in,
were where the clutch parts made ? USA or other ?
how bad is the chatter,
hope this helps. 37Ragtopman
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46coupe
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-- 11-14-2021 @ 4:18 PM
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Thank you for the responses. I'll try to address each one.
The rear shock and spring mounts checked out ok. The flywheel was machined also.
The U joint was tight with no play and the transmission gears, input shaft were ok.
The pilot bearing was new as well. I bought all the parts from Dennis Carpenter in 2016 and had them installed a long with the throw out bearing. I will recheck the trans mounts. but they seemed ok at the time.
The chatter happens on engagement and lasts a few seconds until the clutch fully engages. I've tried some "jack rabbit" starts and the chatter is less, but bothers the occupants.
There has only been 925 miles put on the car since then so maybe it isn't broken in yet. One person suggested putting the front bumper against a tree and" burning the clutch in". After the time we had tearing everything out to get to the clutch, I hesitate doing that  Thanks again for your input.
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alanwoodieman
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-- 11-14-2021 @ 7:37 PM
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was the flywheel turned or surfaced?
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46coupe
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-- 11-15-2021 @ 8:50 AM
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It was turned to take any warp out of it.
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TomO
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-- 11-15-2021 @ 9:46 AM
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Some motor mounts are not made properly. Bob Drakes seem the be the closest to the Ford mounts. Here are a couple of topics on clutch chatter and motor mounts:
https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=10545&keywords=clutch%20chatter
https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=10525&keywords=clutch%20chatter
Both posts are very lengthy, but I suggest that you print them out and read them and then go back over them again after you look at yours. If you cannot resolve the clutch chatter by replacing the motor mounts, you will have to consider replacing the clutch disc, checking the flywheel runout and the adjustment of the pressure plate fingers. You should also make sure that the shop that replaced the clutch removed the pressure on the disc when they were tightening the bolts, so the cover did not warp.
Tom
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46coupe
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-- 11-16-2021 @ 8:14 AM
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Ok Tom, thanks.
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sarahcecelia
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-- 11-17-2021 @ 8:53 AM
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My '40 did that too; and I found that if I engaged the clutch at idle speed, it engaged with no chatter, and then I could accelerate to hi-way or street speeds. If I gave it the gas too soon-(not at idle) it chattered.
Regards, Steve Lee
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JayChicago
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-- 11-17-2021 @ 11:38 AM
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Me too. Had the car five years, and just this year realized engaging the clutch as I always did on other cars causes some chatter. Now I try to do it as Steve Lee said, engage the clutch before giving any gas pedal. Is a little tricky, and if not done right will cause a stall, but usually not cuz the flathead has good low-end torque. When done right, no clutch chatter, at least on my car.
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same
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-- 11-18-2021 @ 12:06 PM
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howdy,i'm with sarahcecelia and jaychicago iv'e had my '37 fordor for over 2 yrs now and i do exactly like these guys. let the clutch out at idle or as very close to. these old fords have so much low end torque it'l take off. practice in the neiborhood on the level. it's a little trickier on a hill you'll get it.good luck,Tom.
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46coupe
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-- 11-19-2021 @ 2:11 AM
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Thanks for your response. I've tried that also. It still will chatter, only not as much.
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same
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-- 11-19-2021 @ 6:04 AM
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hey 46coupe, how fast do you think you have you're idle set? when i first got my '37 i started to drive it like any other 4 or 5 speed i'd ever had and i experienced the chatter/shudder so bad i thought it was gonna shake the fenders off the car. this technique we talk about takes practice. i do not have any shudder whatsoever unless i get too much revs. i thought i was going to have everything done as you had with clutch rebuild and such. i even have some old motor mounts i probably should replace. practiced the technique,is all good,smoothe. keep trying,Tom.
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len47merc
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-- 11-21-2021 @ 5:17 AM
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The point here is being missed and/or glossed over. Good quality clutch and pressure plates (recommend Fort Wayne) properly installed (see Tom0's posts on the subject on releasing pressure plate force during install) combined with quality and properly installed motor mounts will result in a buttery smooth clutch operation. If this is what you are after invest the time and effort to accomplish this and you will be rewarded.
Steve
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