| ol 39 | -- 11-13-2021 @ 10:31 AM |
|
hi guys, my brake pedal goes nearly to the floor, everything is new, and finally got the system bled. pedal still goes nearly to the floor, any suggestions? thanks.
|
|
| 40cpe | -- 11-13-2021 @ 11:22 AM |
|
did you adjust the brakes using the top AND bottom anchors? This message was edited by 40cpe on 11-13-21 @ 9:01 PM
|
|
| ol 39 | -- 11-13-2021 @ 5:37 PM |
|
yes, i think i have all the bases covered.
|
|
| carcrazy | -- 11-13-2021 @ 6:36 PM |
|
The brake pedal must be adjusted to have free movement of 1/4" (measured at pedal pad). You want to adjust the brake shoes by tightening them individually to the point where you can't turn the wheel then back off the adjustment to the point where the wheel rotates with very light drag. Once you have the adjustment of all the shoes done, bleed the brakes to get a good firm, high pedal. You may have to bleed the brakes several times to accomplish this. When bleeding, start with the brake furthest away from the master cylinder - the right rear and end with the brake closest to the master cylinder - the left front. If you still are not able to get a high firm brake pedal, check the flexible hoses in the brake lines to make sure they are firm and holding the internal pressure without expanding.
|
|
| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 11-15-2021 @ 6:20 AM |
|
39 FORD BRAKES I have a questions, I assume you did a complete brake job , did you use ORIGINAL brake shoes or repops ? replaced all the wheel cylinders, who made them ? all new rubber lines,? new master cylinder ? on adjustment you have to do heel and toe [ adjustment ] on the adjusters on the bottom of backing plate, FORD had a special tool that mounted on the spindle and spun around the brake shoes and you used a feeler blade bewteen the shoe and this too, I am thinking ,004 you can do the same thing by drilling two 1/4 holes in the drum , and filing a slot so the feeler blade can be used, so you can insert it between the drum and brake shoe,in though the slot the holes have be drilled from the inside out, with brake drum removed, drlll right along the machined surface of the drum, lets hear how you made out, hope this helps 37Ragtopman This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 11-15-21 @ 11:31 AM
|
|
| 1938cr | -- 11-15-2021 @ 7:26 AM |
|
There was a recent article in the V8 Times about poorly manufactured aftermarket brakes shoes causing bleeding problems. May/June 2021, page 95 “Stop! Dangerous Aftermarket Brake Parts Exposed” by Charles Wells. Seems the tops of the shoes were manufactured incorrectly, worth looking into. Hope this helps
|
|
| ford38v8 | -- 11-15-2021 @ 10:00 PM |
|
37ragtopman, I have considered making one of those tools from a scr*p drum, chopping off most of the drum, leaving short sections 180 apart. Probably more work than worthwhile, but for the novelty! I’ve found that good results can be had seat ocf the pants, put together with an understanding of the function of the anchors. Not that I have special skills, but more that Ford gave KRW carte Blanche on developing specialized Ford tools, some of which were only bought by rookies and seldom used. I do think this particular tool to fall into that category. Alan
|
|
| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=15288 |