| budlite28 | -- 11-02-2021 @ 11:11 AM |
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I decided to take the coupe out the other day. when I rolled up to the stop sign, the motor quit, won't restart. It has been running great until then. Got it home and found I had no spark. I check voltage at coil @ 6.2v. So I pulled distributor, replaced rotor, inner cap ( checked gap @ .002) regapped points @ .015. Still no spark. The coil & condenser are about 6 months old, so I'm hoping it not them that's bad. I can think of anything else to check. HELP!!!
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| carcrazy | -- 11-02-2021 @ 12:26 PM |
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Are you using the original distributor and ignition coil on your 1939 Ford? If you are using either the coil or the coil replacement adapter, there is a carbon brush on the bottom that contacts the rotor. This brush has a small coil spring that pushes on the brush to ensure that it makes contact with the rotor to complete the primary circuit of the ignition system. If the brush is missing or not in contact with the rotor, you will not have any spark. You can check to make sure the brush is contacting the rotor by removing the inner and outer caps on one side of the distributor while looking inside with a mirror. There is a metal band on the rotor that this brush must be in contact with to enable the ignition to provide spark. Once you have established that you have electrical continuity within the distributor, make sure that all of the other electrical connections in the ignition circuit are tight and secure. Make sure your ignition switch is functioning.
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| budlite28 | -- 11-02-2021 @ 1:20 PM |
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yes I'm using the original distributor but the coil @ condenser is fairly new. And yes the carbon brush is resting on the rotor. I assembled it before I installed the distributor.
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| 40cpe | -- 11-02-2021 @ 1:45 PM |
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Modern condensers are notorious for failing. It would be the first thing I suspect.
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| budlite28 | -- 11-02-2021 @ 2:33 PM |
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ok. I'll give a whirl. Thanks
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| alanwoodieman | -- 11-02-2021 @ 4:25 PM |
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what coil are you using? DC are notorious for failure--if it was rebuilt by Skip-send it back to him for a recheck
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| budlite28 | -- 11-03-2021 @ 9:56 AM |
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the coil is about 6 mos old & I think it's either Drake or from Carpenter. I'm going to sent off the old one to Skip Haney to rebuild
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| mfirth | -- 11-04-2021 @ 4:42 AM |
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Good move to send to "Skip". You may also want to contact "tubman" on the Ford Barn as he makes & sells "trashcan" condencers. Love 39s by the way....keep V8'n .
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| TomO | -- 11-04-2021 @ 9:03 AM |
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If your coil was rebuilt by Skip, there will be a date code engraved on the bottom of your coil. Tom
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| budlite28 | -- 11-04-2021 @ 11:00 AM |
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Just tried calling "Skip" but his day phone number has been disconnected. URGGGG
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| Kens 36 | -- 11-04-2021 @ 11:10 AM |
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What number did you try? Have seen both of these for Skip: (941) 637-6698 (941) 505-9085. Ken
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| budlite28 | -- 11-04-2021 @ 11:35 AM |
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Check primary resistance @ .7 ohms but the secondary showed open line. So I'm guessing the coils bad
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| budlite28 | -- 11-04-2021 @ 11:47 AM |
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I tried the 941-637-6698 no.
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| marko39 | -- 11-05-2021 @ 6:50 AM |
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I got a new coil off eBay. Got it for half price of catalog. It was a Carpenter coil made in China. Was running engine in garage and just died. Installed very old coil and ran fine. The new coil lasted less than one hour. Guess it was not such a bargain after all.
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| carcrazy | -- 11-05-2021 @ 7:08 AM |
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In my experience, many of the new coils are junk. Several that I have recently purchased lasted less than 10 minutes. The older coils were much better. Recently sold a Flathead Ford that we had driven fifteen thousand miles and never had any problems with the coil. This coil was on the engine when we purchased the car six years ago and it was still going strong!
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| TomO | -- 11-05-2021 @ 8:35 AM |
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Old coils for the 37-41 V-8 are a cr*p shoot. I bought a NOS Ford coil with the light brown top and black base and tested it. It failed the heat test, but I also bought a black used coil at the same swap meet that has tested good for the past 5 years and I carry for a spare. I also carry a spare rebuilt from Skip, because I have more faith in it. Tom
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| budlite28 | -- 11-08-2021 @ 7:27 PM |
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I've gone thru 2 coils in the last 6 m0s. I've got one coming that was rebuilt by Skip Haney. At least I can have it rebuilt. The other 2, I'll use for bookends
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| TomO | -- 11-09-2021 @ 6:33 AM |
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Make sure that the ballast resister on the inside of the firewall is connected. If that is not used, the coil will overheat causing it to fail. Tom
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| budlite28 | -- 11-09-2021 @ 3:43 PM |
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Installed new coil with new condenser. STILL NO GO!!!!!!!!!!! Only thing left is the ballast resister. Where is it located? I can't seem to find it.
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| carcrazy | -- 11-09-2021 @ 8:19 PM |
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The resistor for the primary circuit of the ignition system is located in the passenger compartment. It is on the firewall above the steering column.
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| budlite28 | -- 11-10-2021 @ 2:33 PM |
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you gotta be a fr*gg*n gymnast to be it out. I'll try again tomorrow
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| TomO | -- 11-10-2021 @ 5:38 PM |
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You can check if the resister is in the circuit by using a voltmeter at the coil. Connect your voltmeter to the wire on the top of the coil and turn on the ignition switch. The meter should read battery voltage or a voltage around 3 volts. If it reads around 3 volts, your resister is in the circuit. If it reads battery voltage, tap the starter button to nudge the engine until the points close and read the meter. If the voltage only drops slightly from battery voltage, the resister is not in the circuit. If you do not read any voltage, the ignition switch could be bad. The easiest way to access the resister is to put a pillow on the floor of the car and get in the car upside down with your feet on the back of the seat. The nuts holding the wires on the resister are usually 11/32". On e wire should come from the switch and the other will go to the coil. The switch wire terminal may have the radio and heater wires on it also. If the voltage checks out and you still have weak or no spark, try running a jumper directly from the battery NEG post to the coil input. Try starting the car. Do not leave the jumper on when you are not cranking the engine. That means if it starts remove the jumper, if you have used up your 20 second of cranking and going into the 5 min rest for the starter, remove the jumper. Tom
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| budlite28 | -- 11-11-2021 @ 8:36 PM |
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Thanks. Tom
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