| silverchief | -- 07-08-2010 @ 12:59 PM |
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After running out of gas in my 46, problems with stalling and bucking soon began. Pulled the carb and found very light tan, grainy substance somewhat hardened at bottom of the bowl. Doesn't look like what I would expect to find at the bottom of a dirty gas tank. Carb is now in the shop being torn down and cleaned. My electric fuel pump is horizontally mounted along the frame just forward of rear axle. I want to remove it so I can blow out fuel line in both directions. Will the tank empty itself on my garage floor? If not, should I have the cap on or off when blowing toward the tank - and might that just stir up old residue and make matters worse? Thanks in advance.
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| 35ford | -- 07-08-2010 @ 1:52 PM |
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I have been told about Star.Tron additive to use in todays {"junk"} gas and I am using it in my boat and 35 Ford. The marina suggested it when they were told that I had used pump gas at a local gas station. My neighbor uses it in Everything. 2 & 4 cycle outboard, lawn mower, snow blower etc. and has been trouble free. Walmart for a 8oz bottle $ 8.96 good for 128 gallons of gas. Just a suggestion.
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| trjford8 | -- 07-08-2010 @ 7:17 PM |
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Pull the gas tank sending unit and look down inside the tank. Do you still have the stock pump on the motor or are you only running the electeric pump? Do you have a fuel filter between the tank and the pump? I suspect you may have to pull the tank and either clean it out or put in a new tank. This message was edited by trjford8 on 7-8-10 @ 7:19 PM
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| deluxe40 | -- 07-08-2010 @ 10:37 PM |
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I had the same thing happen. The stuff was like sticky, tan talcum powder in the carburetor float bowl. The varnish-like residue from evaporating gas in the tank dissolves and will even flow through a fuel filter. I had the radiator shop clean and coat a good looking used tank and it lasted about 300 miles before a chunk of stuff dropped off inside and I started seeing reddish pieces of stuff in the fuel pump bowl. I recommend saving yourself some grief and going directly to a new tank.
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| TomO | -- 07-09-2010 @ 7:49 AM |
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Silverchief, your gas tank will drain when you remove the connection to the electric fuel pump. If the pump is connected with rubber hoses, you can clamp off the line to the tank. If you have less than 5 gal in the tank, you can jack up the left rear of the car so that the gas will be below the fuel line outlet. Coating a tank requires that the tank be clean and rust free. Any residual rust or varnish will keep the coating from sticking. I had my tank chemically stripped and the rust removed by a phosphoric acid process and the coating lasted for about 20 years. Tom
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| supereal | -- 07-09-2010 @ 9:23 AM |
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Dan: It is time for a new tank. We had a new place open up here called "Tank ReNu". They apparently had a lot of takers, as their junk pile grew high with old tanks that apparently didn't benefit from their "patented process". They are no longer in business. New tanks, both metal and plastic, are available, and within reasonable cost. There is a move afoot to increase the alcohol content of the "new" gas, and it will likely increase the failure of the tanks, bot coated and uncoated.
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| silverchief | -- 07-11-2010 @ 4:26 PM |
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TomO That being the case - is it feasible to try to blow out the line from the pump back toward the tank??
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| 40guy | -- 07-11-2010 @ 6:46 PM |
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I had this same problem with one of my cars over a year ago. The gunk in the bottom of the carb reminded me of pancake syrup. The float was actually sticking to the carb bottom in this stuff. I'd never seen that before. Other times the needle valve would stick open and cause a flood condition. I had a real problem diagnosing this because one time it was starving; the next time it was flooding. I had to take the carb apart and SCRUB that stuff off the parts. Put it back together, ran some Marvel Mystery Oil through the system and have had no more problems.
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| 40guy | -- 07-11-2010 @ 6:49 PM |
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Also, did put a new electric fuel pump filter on too.
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| TomO | -- 07-12-2010 @ 7:30 AM |
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Silverchief, blowing out the line towards the tank will just blow the junk in the line back into the tank, where it will come back into the line again as you run the car. It would be better to drain the tank, blow out the lines, and then you can remove the sending unit to see how much junk is in the tank. The only way to clean the tank is to remove it from the car and flush it with a soap solution, rinse it out and then let it drain and dry out. This procedure will get rid of the loose crud in the tank. To get rid of the hardened crud, you must have the tank hot tanked and then de-rusted. Tom
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| silverchief | -- 07-12-2010 @ 12:19 PM |
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Thanks Tom0 (and others) It's been an education.
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