| silverchief | -- 10-09-2021 @ 12:00 PM |
|
The brake switch on my 46 coupe has given up the ghost. What is involved installing a new one - simply a matter of unscr*w*ng the old one and scr*w*ng in the new one - or is there more to it? Thanks
|
|
| 1931 Flamingo | -- 10-09-2021 @ 1:04 PM |
|
Just do as you said. Paul in CT
|
|
| 51woodie | -- 10-10-2021 @ 6:19 AM |
|
Have the new one ready to install (in your hand) as soon as you remove the old one, as fluid will start to leak out when the old one is removed. Check the fluid level when you’re done, and top up as needed.
|
|
| silverchief | -- 10-10-2021 @ 11:34 AM |
|
Thanks very much.
|
|
| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 10-10-2021 @ 2:56 PM |
|
HI Are you using silicone brake fluid ? silicone brake fluid destroys the brake light switch over a period of time, I have first hand knowledge of this problem, I have heard that HARLEY DAVIDSON , brake light switches work with silicone brake fluid they were designed for if you are using regulator brake fluid like dot 3 I use snythetic brake fluid, for years now with no problems, it might be a good time to flush the system, ? if the fluid is old my 2 cents 37Ragtopman
|
|
| silverchief | -- 10-11-2021 @ 2:52 PM |
|
Thanks Ragtopman - my fluid is dot 3 and fairly new.
|
|
| flathead4rd | -- 10-12-2021 @ 10:59 AM |
|
I always fill the port in the new switch with brake fluid before installing it.
|
|
| silverchief | -- 10-16-2021 @ 11:41 AM |
|
I installed the new brake light switch but the lights do not work. Verified the circuit is good by jumping the two wires while off the switch. Can I do a test at the switch without removing it from the car to verify it is bad before I return it to the vendor? Thanks
|
|
| Mr Rogers | -- 10-16-2021 @ 8:31 PM |
|
Check for ground.
|
|
| TomO | -- 10-16-2021 @ 8:46 PM |
|
You can test the switch with your voltmeter. One terminal will always have voltage and the other will have voltage when you press the brake pedal. Connect your voltmeter black lead to the terminal that does not have voltage and press the brake pedal while watching the meter Tom
|
|
| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 10-17-2021 @ 6:47 AM |
|
silver chief with the key on, check to see if electricy is on the one wire,[ With a TEST LIGHT, ] if so, then use a jumper wire and cross both termials, does the brake lights work, ? if they do the switch is bad, if they do not remove the taillight bulbs and test them, and with the test light check the brake light terminals for electricty if have electric anc bulbs are good , try a ground with from tallight to a good ground, that you know of, even if you have to run a wire to the battery. you might have a bad ground or corroded termials no allowing a good contunity, this happens and causes dim lights, try buying a NOS U.S.A. made switch, try SOUTHSIDE OBSOLETE in MINN, try staying a away from foreign made parts, all they do is cause problems, Lets hear how you made out, my 2 cents 37 Ragtopman how old is the wiring in the car, ? you might have to check all the bullet connections,
|
|
| JayChicago | -- 10-18-2021 @ 9:13 AM |
|
Original poster said: "Verified the circuit is good by jumping the two wires while off the switch." We should all re-read the posts before jumping on the keyboard. We all like to see our posts in print, but if we post too quickly we can wind up looking foolish.
|
|
| alanwoodieman | -- 10-18-2021 @ 10:09 AM |
|
he needs a low pressure switch, such as HD or Ron Francis--which I am using in at least 5 cars with synthetic fluid with no problem get some one to apply the brakes like he was doing a panic stop and really applying the brakes and see if the light comes on
|
|
| silverchief | -- 10-20-2021 @ 3:57 PM |
|
Jay, What is really foolish, is criticizing a members thread without knowing what handicaps he may be working with.
|
|
| JayChicago | -- 10-21-2021 @ 9:35 AM |
|
Silverchief You are right. I should have thought of that. My post was foolish.
|
|
| silverchief | -- 10-21-2021 @ 10:07 AM |
|
The switch I received from our California vendor was bad. Was pleasantly surprised to find my local NAPA store had the correct switch, obviously of much better quality, and minus any shipping charges. Now my brake lights work fine.
|
|
| Tmusk | -- 12-25-2021 @ 9:50 AM |
|
My apologies for jumping in on someone else's post but I'd like to know more about the best brake fluid to use. I just bought a 47 with what look like very new brake lines, hoses and fittings. Not sure about the master and wheel cylinders although the master looks new also. No information from previous owner. However, the driver's front wheel cylinder and master cylinder are both leaking and the master body is starting to rust due to the leaking brake fluid. Hence, I think this might be a good time to just overhaul the whole system and change to silicone or whatever the best product is. I realize that any part not replaced must be thoroughly flushed before changing over to silicone but I'm not sure about some of the synthetics. My questions are, what is the best fluid and what is the best solution and procedure for flushing the system?
|
|
| TomO | -- 12-26-2021 @ 10:05 AM |
|
Tmusk, There have been many discussions about silicone brake fluid and you can find them by clicking on the SEARCH box on the Forum banner, Type in "Silicone brake fluid" in the search box and then go to the "In The Past" drop down menu and click ALL then click search. There is no "best" fluid for all situations. The synthetic dot 3 / 4 fluids have a slight edge over the non-synthetic fluids in boiling point. If you change to silicone (DOT 5) fluid, flush the metal lines with denatured alcohol before connecting them to new wh*ll or master cylinders and make sure that all rubber parts are replaced. Tom
|
|
| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=15206 |