| cdeac47 | -- 09-04-2021 @ 7:50 PM |
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I have a bone stock '47 Ford with a flathead. It needs to have the points, condenser, cap, rotor and wires replaced. This is another learning adventure into Fords for me. I understand there are 2 sets of points in the distributor and the distributor is bolted to the block and has to be removed be worked on. Now I have heard a few things about this ignition tune up . First most people can pull the distributor and install new points, condenser and rotor. I believe theoretically that if the points are gapped correctly the dwell will be correct or not? Second from what I hear there is a mechanical device Ford used to set the points/dwell and timing and that machine is hard to find if you can find one nowadays. Third if you set the points correctly and timing and put it back together the engine will run but not that good. Fourth I have seen printed in a few publications there is a way to set timing manually, use of two small rulers and by measurement set the timing. Fifth I have heard the replacement points that are made today are questionable and the petronix system should be installed. So now I have come to think that I can do it without the machine but there are too many variables that make to the outcome questionable. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Chris This message was edited by cdeac47 on 9-4-21 @ 7:56 PM
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| GK1918 | -- 09-05-2021 @ 7:20 AM |
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All I can say is going back when these ruled the roads there was no garage shop around here with those expensive machines maybe the dealer, but most were serviced at gas stations. My father did this all the time. I learned back then he would remove the top right radiator hose holding a container very little coollant will come out then remove fan same side as the hose now two seconds the distributor is out. he replaced points, condenser, caps and rotor set points at .015 or so as a unit. My father hated those plug wire tubes and in the trash it went he said they only invite wires grounding out you want them use PVC still not needed. Put it all back together start it using a vacuum gauge and bump the timing on the distributor (the big screw) until the vac gauge reads fine. All of this was like a half hour. And yes rulers and such no such thing back then I know Mac Vanpelt has that info but thats now, back then most didnt even have a phone. in ending I did my car that way almost 5 yrs ago I use this car every day never use the choke in the coldest weather instant start all the time. sam
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| TomO | -- 09-05-2021 @ 9:17 AM |
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Chris, The timing is determined by the opening of the left hand set of points. If you have the point gap set correctly, you will have the correct dwell. Both sets of points are set for 22.5 degrees dwell. The overlap of the make set with the break set should give you 34-36 degrees of dwell. If the cam lobes are worn your results may be different. Setting the points with a feeler gauge requires the skill of knowing the correct amount of drag there should be on the gauge when you pull it though the points. If you use this method, you should use the 2 ruler method as a check on the timing of the left set of points opening. (the left set of points is determined by looking at the distributor as it is mounted in the car, not as looking at the distributor from the driver's seat). I would not use the screw on the side of the distributor to set the timing, I would adjust the points to get the proper dwell. The KRW timing fixture is hard to find, but the Bear (NAPA) kit shows up regularly on E-Bay and it sell for less. It seems to be just as accurate as the KRW fixture. Setting the points on a distributor machine allows the operator to check for worn cam lobes, worn bushings, correct point tension, correct operation of the mechanical advance and vacuum brake. Turn around times from the suppliers of this service is short. Yes, there have been problems with point sets made improperly. I have some NOS Holley and Ford point that I use for my car. I bought some NAPA points and they do not have the brass bushing in the make set of points but they seem to be good enough to use. If the points are set correctly by any method, the engine will run fine, barring any other problems with the ignition, fuel and mechanical issues. I hope that I have helped you to make up your mind to keep the point system and send your distributor to Third Gen, Charley in NY or Skip. Tom
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| cdeac47 | -- 09-10-2021 @ 7:27 AM |
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Tom - I am afraid I am confused. In one paragraph you said it's fine to the two rule method to set timing once the points are set. In another paragraph you said you would not use the screw on side of the distributer to set timing. When I set timing according to the diagram I am using the 2 rule method uses 3/8 inch measurement from the screw hole. What am I missing? Chris
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| supereal | -- 09-12-2021 @ 10:56 AM |
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I certainly agree with my friend TomO's post. At our shop we have two Sun machines that get used on older vehicles and some trucks. When electronic ignitions became standard, many shops either shelved their machines, or junked them. We get distributors sent to us regularly because we have many collector car customers. It allows us to not only set dwell and check the advance parts, but also any problems with worn shafts, often present.
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| TomO | -- 09-12-2021 @ 4:42 PM |
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I don't know what confused you. Here are the sentences as I wrote them"If you use this method, you should use the 2 ruler method as a check on the timing of the left set of points opening. (the left set of points is determined by looking at the distributor as it is mounted in the car, not as looking at the distributor from the driver's seat). I would not use the screw on the side of the distributor to set the timing, I would adjust the points to get the proper dwell. " If you use the 2 ruler system to set the timing and it is off, you obviously did not set the correct gap on the points correctly, so instead of using the screw on the side of the distributor to set timing, it is better to adjust the point gap to get the correct dwell and timing. If the points are set correctly the timing will be correct when the side screw is set on the center mark. I do NOT recommend the 2 ruler system, and I did not say that it was fine to use it, my only recommendation is to have the points set on a distributor machine by a competent operator. Some people like to do their own work and live with the consequences, so if you want to use the 2 ruler method, give yourself a break and adjust the points to get the proper dwell and timing. Tom
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| cdeac47 | -- 09-14-2021 @ 3:28 PM |
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Thanks Tom. I got it now!
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| cdeac47 | -- 09-27-2021 @ 9:06 AM |
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Thanks to all that have replied to this post however I have made a 90 degree turn on this issue. I purchased and have begun installation of the Stromberg e-fire distributor which uses no points, condenser or a vacuum advance. The new distributor, coil and ignition wires were installed yesterday. The instructions indicate to find the wire that goes from the ignition switch to the ballast resistor and splice in a wire. As I understand the ballast resistor is usually mounted under the dash on the left side kick panel which is not so on my car. The only wire that goes from the ignition switch through the firewall has a shrink wrapped bundle on it. Moreover it's not mounted to the firewall and it's dangling loose! It's approximately an inch and half long; could that be the resistor? I don't think shrink wrap on a resistor is a good idea. I really don't see anywhere else the ballast resistor could be. Anyone ever hear of this or have thoughts/opinions? This message was edited by cdeac47 on 9-28-21 @ 7:54 AM
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