| Dream38v8 | -- 09-03-2021 @ 5:37 AM |
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After reading the latest coil posts I had to post my latest story / question regarding last Saturday's experience. When I purchased my '38 in the summer of 2016 I made many trips where the car would kill and not start on a hot day. After consulting this forum I was informed I need to purchase a Skip Haney rebuilt coil. I purchased a coil from Skip and have been cruising around ever since. During the summer months I remove the hood side panels to allow for additional air circulation and looks. The temperature was in the mid to high 90s and the heat index was over 100. The engine temperature gauge was running around 160. After a 15 mile non stop trip I encountered two consecutive stop lights. The car stalled and would not restart. I pushed the car off to the side of the road and waited for the car to cool down. The '38 restarted after a 30 minute wait. It was a nervous 30 minute drive home, but I made it. So what happened? Did the coil and or condenser breakdown? As of the post the '38 will stay in the garage until milder days arrive. Ray
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 09-03-2021 @ 6:21 AM |
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Dream38v8 hi RAY, I had the same problem., did Skip rebuild the distributer new points, new bushing , set up on scope ? if you can run the engine in the drive way, till it get up to temp try start it, if it does not start, put a ice pack on the coil for a few minutes, if it starts it is the coil most likely, then I would try a new condensor, also clean the contacts on the back of ignition switch, also you could take the switch apart and see if these are any wear on the contact plate and the brush, maybe bad contacts. ? corroded if the contact plate is worn, you can use a piece of glass like a mirror and 320 wet and dry sand paper and hone the plate till all the wear is gone, you can do this if it is not worn out, also check the resister and clean and tighten the contacts, using cold on electric items to see if they are breaking down, is what radio and computer repair people use, Hope this helps, 37 Ragtopman , Maine
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| JayChicago | -- 09-03-2021 @ 7:06 AM |
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Your telling symptom seems to be weak spark after things get warm. Both coils and condensers often fail in a similar way with similar symptoms.... function fine when cold but then fail when warm. You have a Skip's rebuilt coil, and they have excellent reputation for long life. You didn't mention replacing the condenser. So I would try that. I think that advice about the distributor and ignition switch is sending you on a goose chase. Problems there would be there on start up, not appear after engine gets warm.
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| TomO | -- 09-03-2021 @ 7:43 AM |
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Stalling and unable to restart when hot can be either ignition or fuel. Skip Haney's coils have a very good reputation, but like any electrical device they can fail. To check if your problem is weak or lack of spark, start the engine and let it idle until it is at operating range and then remove a plug wire and hold it near a head nut. You should have a spark about 1/2" in length and blue in color. An orange color spark is weak. The weak spark can be the coil or the condenser. Replace the condenser with a new one from NAPA and repeat the test. A coil can overheat if the ignition points have too much dwell. This happens when the rubbing block wears. The overheating usually occurs after a long drive. Micheal Driskell at https://thirdgenauto.com/ has a very good reputation on rebuilding the distributor. Another cause for stalling is fuel starvation. When the fuel pump is weak or the push rod is worn you will not have enough fuel to the carburetor to keep engine running. You must check for this condition by removing the air cleaner and looking down the throat of the carburetor while operating the accelerator rod. You should see 2 strong streams of fuel squirting out of the nozzles into the carburetor. Flooding is another cause of stalling. This happens when the fuel starts boiling in the fuel bowl and overflows into the carburetor venturi at idle. With the Ethanol gas, the float level should be set to have the fuel level 1/32-1/16" lower than specifications. Tom
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| Dream38v8 | -- 09-04-2021 @ 6:31 AM |
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I'll be checking the spark later today. I would like to get a spare condenser from NAPA. What's part number? Ray
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| TomO | -- 09-04-2021 @ 7:51 AM |
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ECH FA49 Tom
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| supereal | -- 09-12-2021 @ 11:10 AM |
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I keep a spare condenser in my "road kit". It is put into a plastic pill bottle and fitted with a pair of clip leads. If you have, or suspect a failing condenser, put the clip leads between the input terminal of the distributor and ground. I devised this tool after a condenser failure out on the road. Good quality condensers are around ten dollars, much cheaper than getting towed.
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| woodiewagon46 | -- 09-12-2021 @ 3:10 PM |
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You talk about removing your hood sides to help keep your car cool. I have a friend with a '37 Ford street rod and the car ran very well. He removed the hood sides just for kicks one day. After he removed the hood sides the car ran very hot. He replaced the sides and the car ran great. He is thinking that the air was hitting the cowl and firewall, creating a positive pressure in his engine compartment and not allowing enough air to go thru his radiator. Sounds plausible.
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| 40cpe | -- 09-12-2021 @ 7:05 PM |
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I don't see how open sides could create pressure in the engine compt. I have a '38 with the sides removed. I bought damaged hood sides and repaired them to use just the grill section to avoid the snaggled tooth look. I live in the deep south and the car doesn't run hot. I think your friend needs to look elsewhere, maybe a sticking thermostat that coincided with the side removal.
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| Dream38v8 | -- 09-24-2021 @ 10:11 AM |
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Tom, I ordered and received condenser ECH FA49 from Napa. I finally had time to installed it today. Why is it a simple task becomes extremely difficult? After connecting thenew condenser to the coil I could not get the coil to seat. Nothing seemed to work. I removed the coil and condenser and compared it the one I removed. The grounding flang is 180deg off from the removed condenser. See the attached pic. I attached the original condenser and the coil seated easily. Also note the size difference between the new and original. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Ray
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| MittieLee1935 | -- 11-06-2021 @ 7:30 AM |
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My 35 Ford acted similarly to what you are describing. Ethanol gas is not your friend. It causes the rubber inside the mechanical fuel pump to fail. I replaced my fuel pump and run ethanol free gas and have no more trouble.
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| TomO | -- 11-06-2021 @ 8:21 AM |
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Ray, I apologize for giving you bad information. The last time that I ordered a condenser from NAPA was in 2005 and it had the correct configuration. The size was shorter than the Ford condenser, but the grounding tab was on the correct side. I did not notice that their drawing shows the incorrect configuration. I do not have any idea of the reliability of the condensers from Third Gen, but most of his parts are good quality parts. His website shows the correct configuration condenser. https://thirdgenauto.com/product/1937-41-ford-ignition-condenser/ I hope that this helps you out. Tom
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