| cdeac47 | -- 05-30-2021 @ 6:19 PM |
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Though I am no aficionado on Fords yet, I am learning fast. I posted a topic questioning 1947 brakes here probably 8 month's ago telling my plight about brakes. It turned out that the shoes were incorrect! Recently I have a '36 Ford in for brake work that has been upgraded to '40 juice brakes. As usual the wheel cylinders were leaking and the fluid has impregnating the shoes. As with the '47, replaced all the parts, including the shoes, with new parts and the same issue popped up; the shoes have limited contact or no contact with the drums regardless of adjustment or how many time the system is bled. At the same time I receive my issue of V8 Times and there's an article about brakes and it describes the issue I currently have. So when you're replacing brake shoes, before you begin, make sure you match up the used shoes with your old shoes! On a similar topic, I am looking at a '36 Ford and the brakes have also been upgraded to the '40 juice brakes. The seller says they work great, however the brake pedal does not come up from the floor boards. From my limited view in the pictures it appears as though the pedal goes to the firewall. Is that generally the case when retrofitting cable brakes to juice brakes? As I mentioned earlier on the retrofitted '36; the brake pedal comes through the floor!
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| ford38v8 | -- 05-30-2021 @ 9:07 PM |
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There are more than a few different hydraulic conversions that have firewall master cylinders, but I’d think them to be more complicated than need be. I wouldn’t convert my 38’s cable brakes for anything, so what do I know? But... what I do know is that your ‘36 originally ha rod mechanicals, rather than cable mechanicals as you stated. Alan
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| wmsteed | -- 06-05-2021 @ 11:00 AM |
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A hydraulic brake conversion to a pre- 39 car can be very simple if the person doing the work knows what he is doing. The easiest conversion is to use a '39 style of peddle assembly, 42-48 brakes with '38-39 drums and '36-39 wheels. I prefer the '42-48 brakes because the are easier to adjust and are self energizing where in the '39-41 are not. A lot of the street rodder types like to use a firewall mounted peddle/master cylinder assembly. The peddle assembly is usually harvested from a late model car and can utilize a power booster and dual master cylinder. These unit are also available from the aftermarket vendors. The advantage to the '39 peddle assembly and 42-48 brakes with '38-39 drums and wheels, is that the vehicle retains it's stock look and function, where-as the firewall mounted peddle assembly, etc., clutters up the engine compartment. My '36 has the '39 peddle assembly, '42-48 brakes, etc. I took the conversion one step further using a '40 steering gear assembly. Bill 36 5 win delx cpe
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| flatheadfan | -- 06-06-2021 @ 8:06 AM |
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After 80+ years I am surprised that mechanical brakes still have a following. I guess I understand their continuance on 100% restorations but for driving in today's world, no way. I have '46-'48 hardware on my '35 and they work and look factory. I did add a vacuum booster (no holes to drill just used original frame holes). It brakes as good as my daily drivers. When my foot tells my '35 to stop, it stops!
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| TomO | -- 06-06-2021 @ 8:51 AM |
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The 42-48 Ford brakes are not self energizing as the term applies to the floating shoes. The main difference between the 39-41 brakes and the 42-48 is that the earlier brakes have an adjustable lower anchor and the later brakes have a self adjusting lower anchor. The self energizing brake system uses shoes without a bottom anchor. When the brakes are applied, the primary (front) shoe rubs on the drum and the shoes pivot to force the secondary (rear) shoe against the drum. This action along with the hydraulic force from the wheel cylinder give a much better braking action than the fixed lower anchor system can. Tom
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| kirkstad | -- 06-06-2021 @ 10:09 AM |
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I understand the need for hydraulic brakes if you have an early model, such as a 36, that has maybe a later flathead with overdrive and you plan to drive at highway speeds of 65 or more. I live on the Jersey shore and I drive the backroads where the speed limit is 35 to 40. I keep the mechanicals adjusted and I have woven shoes, I can lock them up if need be at these speeds. My 36 has the stock 4:11 gears and about 50 is tops anyway. When I have needed to take it on the highway I keep to the right and watch my distance. My greatest worry is been run over from behind. I understand that some states have lots of hills and perhaps using the busy highway is a must, so in that case I don't think I would want to rely on original brakes ether, but in that case ,I think I would just get a later flathead since I like all of them anyway. Frank
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