| hotroddoc | -- 02-19-2021 @ 5:25 AM |
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Hello, I am considering ordering this electronic ignition for my 36 to replace the points. Does anyone have any experience with this particular kit? Would I be able to use my stock coil? Any other recommendations? Thanks
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 02-19-2021 @ 6:33 AM |
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hotroddoc if you send your DISTRIBUTER to SKIP Haney in FL he will rebuild your distributer, and it will be in time, this is way cheaper and better, food for thought, if the new ignition system fails., it is a little hard to find out the problem what's wrong if you have your distributer rebuilt. also send the coil with it, these systems were very good system. I bought a 57 Chev and it had one of the new systems in it and it failed. so now it has POINTS in it, and it runs better , and I can adjust the points if needed, my 2 cents 37Ragtopman
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| TomO | -- 02-19-2021 @ 7:40 AM |
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The dual point system in the Ford distributor last at least 15,000 miles if they are installed correctly. When they begin to fail, you have starting problems and power loss problems. So you get plenty of warning. The electronic ignition has no life expectancy, they can work for 100,000 miles or fail in 20 miles. The failure is usually suddenly and catastrophic. Heat and transient electrical spikes can destroy them. IMHO the electronic ignitions sold for the early Fords is a solution in search of a problem. Tom
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| hotroddoc | -- 02-19-2021 @ 7:46 AM |
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I do have starting problems. That is the reason why I am considering the electronic option. Perhaps I will explore having the distributor rebuilt
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| 1931 Flamingo | -- 02-19-2021 @ 7:57 AM |
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I've got Pertronix on my 48 block in my 40, still 6V. Runs fantastic. Installed and carbs tuned by a Bonneville 200MPH club member. Paul in CT
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| hotroddoc | -- 02-20-2021 @ 4:24 AM |
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The reason why I am replacing the points system is because the car is so difficult to start. I do not use it very often because of this reason. Question: What is the technique to remove the distributor? Would I have to remove the radiator? I would appreciate any tips.
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 02-20-2021 @ 5:56 AM |
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6v electronic ignition how does the engine runs once you have it running ? did you do a compression test ? smooth- rough ? how are the plugs, how old are the ignition wires, and the inner dist caps ? worn or corroded, rotor tips worn ? if it starts hard after sitting for weeks, you will most likely have a gas problem these cars were made to run every day, or start once a week ,at least if it sits for a few weeks try priming the carb by removing the air cleaner and spray a mist of gas down the carb have some one try starting the engine, if it right away you have a gas problem, like a bad flex line, or something else, remember we have modern gas, 6v ignition system you would still need to rebuild the distributer, you would have to remove it and check it for wear, like dist cam bushing's plus more, you would still have to R and R the distributer, it only goes in one way, you have to line up in the slot in the cam shaft, make sure it lines up it comes out very easy, 3 bolts and un snap the ign wire caps, guys that rebuild the distributers have the parts and know how my 2 cents 37Ragtopman
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| hotroddoc | -- 02-20-2021 @ 6:13 AM |
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Once it starts, it runs very smooth. I did change the sparkplugs. It may also be the carburetor. The previous owner told me that it is sometimes hard to start - even if it has been running and still warm, it is hard to start. I do not know the condition of the rotor or cap. I have not yet removed it. This message was edited by hotroddoc on 2-20-21 @ 6:17 AM
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 02-20-2021 @ 6:27 AM |
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I assume you have a original coil and condenser ,mounted on the distributer, did you check the spark, is it weak , or does it produce a strong spark ? you can do this with the engine running by disconnecting one spark plug wire one at a time, seeing how far it will jump, just use a tool made for this to avoid getting sapped by the spark, and with it running if you spray the wires with water and you get spark jumping, or engine running rough you ignition wires are ready to be changed lets hear how you made out, 37Ragtopman
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| hotroddoc | -- 02-20-2021 @ 6:37 AM |
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Thanks. I will check that today and let you know
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| TomO | -- 02-20-2021 @ 8:30 AM |
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In order to start the car you need fuel, compression and spark. You say that the car runs fine once it is started, so I would start by looking at the fuel system. There are 2 conditions that the fuel system can have to cause hard starting. lack of fuel or too much fuel. The lack of fuel condition occurs most often after the car has sat for a few days or longer. It can be caused by a leaking carburetor. You would have to identify the carburetor model in order to check this out as the Stromberg carburetor has different causes than the Holley / Ford carburetor. Please post photos of the left and right sides of your carburetor. This will help in diagnosing your starting problems. You also said that you replaced the spark plugs. Did you check them for signs of running rich or lean? Use this chart if you still have the plugs: http://www.verrill.com/moto/sellingguide/sparkplugs/plugcolorchart.htm The condition of spark plugs can tell a lot about the engine, carburetor and ignition systems. Tom
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| hotroddoc | -- 02-20-2021 @ 10:15 AM |
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Hi Tom, I think that I agree with you. It may be the Carb. I am getting a strong spark. It is the original coil. I removed a plug. It seems to be burning rich. (see photos) I do have another carb that I had from my previous 36. I may try switching the carbs. This message was edited by hotroddoc on 2-20-21 @ 10:16 AM
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| TomO | -- 02-21-2021 @ 9:20 AM |
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It looks like you have a 24 stud engine (1939-1948) in your car and a model 59 carburetor. The spark plug shows a very rich condition and you probably should have the carburetor rebuilt by someone who has lots of experience with these carburetors like Charlie Schwendler in NY. He does a good job and machines the power valve seat so that it doesn't leak. All of his carburetors are engine tested before shipping. His E-mail is cas5845@yahoo.com His phone number is 716/662-9159. If you do decide to rebuild it yourself, Daytona Parts has the best kits, but their float valve adjustment is very finiky and difficult to get right. Your spare carburetor is for the 49-51 engines and it looks like it had a leaking problem also. Tom
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| hotroddoc | -- 02-22-2021 @ 6:55 AM |
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Thank you everyone for your advice. I did replace the carb with the spare one that I ha. The engine started right up!! I will send the older carb to be rebuilt by Charlie.
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