| oatycorb | -- 02-12-2021 @ 9:10 AM |
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Hello everyone, I'm preparing to install the timing cover and oil pan on my 59ab engine, and I have a couple questions pertaining to the front rope seal and how to properly install it to minimize the chance of any oil leaks. Firstly, after the seal is pressed into it's cavity I know I shouldn't cut it flush with the pan or timing cover but it needs to protrude a bit to induce a bit of crush on the seal. This was easy to accomplish with my graphite rear main seal with it's supplied template but I don't have the luxury of that with the front seal, so I was wondering how much the rope seal should protrude and how to go about doing that. Also, it appears that the front of the pan gasket is actually sandwiched between the upper and lower halves of the rope seal when installed. It seems to me that this arrangement could cause a leak because the rope seal would have 2 gaps 180 degrees apart where the pan gasket sits. And I'm assuming the rope seal should be silicone into it's cavity? Any advice on how to properly assemble and seal all this is HUGELY appreciated, thanks!!!
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| Old Magnet | -- 02-12-2021 @ 5:25 PM |
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I'd think you'd want to use one of these. Use with either a smooth or spiral groove sleeve. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1932-1953-Ford-Flathead-V8-One-Piece-Front-Crank-Seal-Kit/164640760202
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| 51woodie | -- 02-12-2021 @ 8:26 PM |
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I could be wrong, but I believe there is some machining required to use this type of seal set up.
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| Old Magnet | -- 02-12-2021 @ 9:56 PM |
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Follow these instructions.... https://video.search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?fr=yhs-trp-001&ei=UTF-8&hsimp=yhs-001&hspart=trp&p=flat+head+ford+front+seal+installation&type=Y143_F163_201897_102620#id=1&vid=6428ea47e2543e40796276ed89e02cd2&action=click
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 02-13-2021 @ 6:47 AM |
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front timing cover if you use the original rope seals, soak them in oil for a few days, then use a socket about the side of the pulley shaft and tap them in to seat them leave about 3/16 on either side, and use #2 permatex on the mating surfaces, draw down on the pan bolts a little at a time, it works for me, just remember if you have to remove the oil pan, if you used the rubber o ring seals it might tear, and you will have to do it all over again, hope this helps, 37 Ragtopman
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| oatycorb | -- 02-13-2021 @ 8:16 AM |
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Thanks 37ragtopman, this is very helpful! So is it correct that the pan gasket is sandwiched between the upper and lower halves of the rope seal when the oil pan is bolted down? That's what it looks like when I lay the pan gasket on the oil pan, which kind of doesn't make sense to me because that wouldn't allow the rope seal to contact the pulley hub 360 degrees around in my mind. Also, if I soak the seals in oil will the #2 permatex still adhere to the ends of the seal? Sorry for all the questions, I've been a car and motorcycle mechanic for most of my life but all my experience has been with post 1960 vehicles so this 1930's stuff is all new to me!
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| sarahcecelia | -- 02-13-2021 @ 8:17 AM |
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NEVER INSTALL THAT SEAL, OR THE REAR MAIN SEAL, ON THE OIL PAN, WITH THE JOINTS AT 9 AND 3 -O'CLOCK!! (PARALLEL TO THE FLOOR) YOU'RE ASKING THEM TO LEAK, AND THEY WILL LEAK!! They should be positioned with the seams at 10- o'clock , AND 4- o'clock. Regards, Steve Lee
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| oatycorb | -- 02-13-2021 @ 8:34 AM |
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Oldmagnet, thanks for the info! Because I'd have to have some machining done to my pulley for this to work I think I'll just go with a carefully installed rope seal. I've heard that some people have had great success with the one piece seal and some who still had leaks.
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 02-13-2021 @ 10:40 AM |
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hi Steve Lee How could you install the seal seams at 10 and 4 ? I never heard of that, do you slide the seals around in the cover and the oil pan, while trying to install the oil pan, ? I cannot tell you how many MODEL A engines ,and V8 FLATHEAD engines that I installed the seals at 9 and 3 and never had any major oil leaks, if installed like explained, you wipe off the seals ends and apply #2 permatex and all comes together, just make sure the pulley has no rough surface so does not tear up the seals ,you could polish it a little, my 2 cents 37Ragopman
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| pauls39coupe | -- 02-13-2021 @ 12:45 PM |
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Oaty, I have always trimmed the pan rail gaskets to the outside edge of the rope seals. Cut the rope seal proud of the block and pan by just a bit, use the guide that came with the "Graftite" rear seal or use a popsicle stick for a guide. Dope the ends with Permatex like Ragtopman suggested. We have been using the one piece front seals on spirial grooved or plain cranks with no leaks. Choose your poison.
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| oatycorb | -- 02-13-2021 @ 1:01 PM |
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Thanks Paul, that makes more sense. One thing comes to mind tho, when I installed the graphite rear main seal (Best Gasket brand) the instructions specifically say NOT to get any sealer on the rope ends, but rather to sparingly apply a very thin layer of black RTV to the mating surfaces of the rear main cap and the block around the areas where the rope seal protrudes just a bit. This is how I did mine so I hope that's going to be okay 'cause I'm not taking it back apart if I can help it!
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| pauls39coupe | -- 02-14-2021 @ 9:40 AM |
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You are right. We have been using the Black RTV sealer on the rope seals. Permatex on the rail gaskets and front cover, but I assume it would work on the rope seals also. Paul
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