| JHauschultz | -- 02-06-2021 @ 12:22 PM |
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I just bought a B&D 6V/12V battery tender. I immediately switched it to 6V, connected it...red clamp to red post, black clamp to black post. Plugged in to the garage outlet. Red light lit up meaning I had it backward. I switched the posts, red clamp to negative post, black to positive, and it showed it was working...green blinking light. My 35 is positive ground. I took off both leads from the battery (6 V optima) and hooked red to post, black to neg, and it still indicated it was backward. Is this a bad tender? Or other causes? Thank you. 42YearsandWaiting
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| TomO | -- 02-06-2021 @ 1:13 PM |
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I cannot see the + and - signs on your battery. They should be by the posts. Without seeing those symbols, I cannot tell if you have it hooked up correctly. The red charger lead should go to the post with the + sign by it. The cable on that post should go to the grounding point for your car, probably the frame. That cable should be a braided cable. I did notice that you have 12 volt cables and that will lead to starting problems. Order the correct cables from one of the vendors that cater to the old Fords, like Third Gen and C&G ford parts. Tom
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| JHauschultz | -- 02-06-2021 @ 1:34 PM |
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Thanks, Tom. The battery poles, red and black, are indeed attached to the tender's red and black alligator clips. A friend suggested uncoupling the clips from the tended and using the, also supplied, terminal connections. Round disk like connections meant to attach to the cable bolts. To see if the alligator clips were installed improperly. And thanks for the info regarding the cable, 6v or 12v, sizes. Jim 42YearsandWaiting
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| fordv8j | -- 02-06-2021 @ 2:08 PM |
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Better keep an eye on the tenders; I had one that didnt shut off; cooked a $240.00 Ford script battery, the company wouldnt do anything about it.... lesson learned
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| 40cpe | -- 02-06-2021 @ 2:53 PM |
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By blowing up the second picture, I see a "+" symbol underneath the terminal with the black Tender lead (red cable) on it. I believe you have it connected improperly. Edit: I now understand your first green light was with the reversed connection. Is it possible to reverse the connector in the Tender leads? If not, I would call B & D. It probably wouldn't be the first one assembled wrong. This message was edited by 40cpe on 2-6-21 @ 3:04 PM
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| ford38v8 | -- 02-06-2021 @ 4:04 PM |
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My two cents worth: Optima batteries are too tall for the stock '35 battery box cover, which will touch the terminals and ground out your battery. Your options are to construct a deeper battery box, do without a cover at all which is not good, or to fabricate a cover that stands proud of the floorboard to clear the terminals. About battery tenders, the Optima will not require a tender under normal conditions, as it does not self discharge. Be sure to turn off ignition and lights and you'll be fine without a tender. If connected continuously, a tender may damage an Optima. Your charging system should keep it in shape if driven once in a while. To and from the grocery only is not sufficient though, take it for a spin for a few miles once in a while. Alternatively, the tender is ok for an overnight hookup, but don't leave it that way. Alan
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| sarahcecelia | -- 02-07-2021 @ 5:58 AM |
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First; Get the good "Battery Tender"brand from: Deltran USA, LLC, 801 International Speedway Blvd., Deland Fl.34609. Call 386-736-7900.I leave them on all (3) of my classic cars, 24/7!!They have 6 volt and 12 tenders.I've had other brands, and they all failed at some point! Red clip goes to positive, Black clip goes to negative. The red light= charging, blinking green= almost fully charged, steady green = fully charged. They cost about $39.00; but if one goes bad (which is very unusual) you can send it to them, and they will give you a cedit toward a new one!Remember; "You Only Get What You Pay For!!" I certainly hope that this helps you!!! (And it will if you buy one of those!!!) Regards, Steve Lee
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| TomO | -- 02-07-2021 @ 8:59 AM |
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Is the red post the one with the + sign on the battery case? Do you have a voltmeter? Tom
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| 4 MAINS V8 | -- 02-07-2021 @ 12:59 PM |
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Use a volt meter to establish that the battery polarity is correct. I have seen several batteries reverse charged, however. not sure if it’s possible with an optima battery. If it’s reversed changed, completely discharge battery and recharge, observing correct polarity. Otherwise you have a faulty charger.
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| wmsteed | -- 02-08-2021 @ 8:56 AM |
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Ditto on the 'Deltran' been using them for years, every time I try to save a buck with brand X I get burnt. I have 'Deltran' Tenders on three boats and four cars. I Generally disconnect the Neg cable from the battery, that stops any parasites from draining the battery. Cable size on 6v is very important!! The use of 12v cables on 6v leads to trouble. Bill 36 5 win delx cpe
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| JHauschultz | -- 02-08-2021 @ 12:44 PM |
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I'm skeptical of the B&D tender. But, here's what I did. I disconnected the alligator clips for the tender and connected the round rings instead. When I touched the postitive/red ring to the postive post and the negative/black ring to the negative post, the tender worked. The alligator clips were improperly wired...were reversed in construction. Yes. You get what you pay for. I bought the unit thru Amazon and they replaced the unit the next day. The new unit works. I will however, watch the new tender every few hours to assess progress...the blinking green light. I will also get a multimeter to go beyond blinkgreen light. I also heard Schmacher's were good...and something called Tender Plus. I'll turn off the tender tomorrow morning, and wait for the multimeter to get an actual 6V reading. Thank you all for taking the time to educate me...what I'm sure will happen again and again. Maybe I won't need the tender. Here's the short story of my Grandpa's 35 Coupe. Stored in 1943. Out of storage with new tires, battery, oil etc by an old Wisconsin farmer...where the car was. I drove it to St. Louis 1968. A death in the family stopped 'restoration' which was only beginning...taking fenders off. Running boards off. Dash. Seat, etc. I moved it from that garage to my own home's garage five years later. I was afraid the engine was frozen. Two 'old boys' from southern Illinois, newfound relatives of my wife's visited last year. I put new tires on it. They put the car in gear, pushed it a foot and the fan belt turned. My own ignorance. They took it away on their trailer...three days later, new ignition, spark wires, gas tank, plugs, clean carburetor...and it started. With a burst of smoke that within a minute disappeared. Then COVID took over, and at Thanksgiving they brought it home. New title...but that's another story. Named Henrys'. Not a typo. Henry Ford/Henry Hauschultz. My Grandpa...bought it new. No restoration. My memories are for the car that is...not the car that could be. Next owner's decision after I meet up with Grandpa again. 42YearsandWaiting
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| mfirth | -- 02-09-2021 @ 5:00 AM |
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I put my "tender" on a timer. It is on for 1.5 hours every 6 hours and keeping my 12v battery at 12.6 volts, without disconecting the battery from the car, even in cold weather. The timer will prevent over charging.
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