| danliveshere | -- 06-25-2010 @ 6:54 AM |
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Hi all. I stripped my 35 block down a while ago , leaving only the camshaft in place. I now have to remove it to begin the rebuild( block has been bored to 040 oversize). The camsfaft is stuck, will not rotate or move front or rear. I have a later cam shaft with bolt on alloy timing gear that I was thinking of using and installing new cam bearings to suit. Any ideas how to get the old one to budge? Should I take it off the engine stand that is bolted to the rear of the block and just bash the cam shaft forward? Dan.
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| TomO | -- 06-25-2010 @ 8:57 AM |
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I would take it off the egine stand before the bell houing cracks and drops the motor on the floor. The early blocks were not designed to be supported by the bel housing. There are adapters available to support the block by the exhaust ports. Red's Headers sells one. To remove the camshaft, the oil pump drive gears must be removed and then you should be able to remove the camshaft by tapping on it from the back. Tom
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| supereal | -- 06-25-2010 @ 8:59 AM |
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Remove the oil pump. Having already pulled out the fuel pump rod and the lifters, the camshaft will come out. If you have the engine bolted to the stand by the clutch housing bolts, it is dangerous, and make break, letting the engine fall. All of these pre-49 engines must be secured by the exhaust manifold bolts thru a plate. Don't do anything else until you do. A broken housing will render the engine useless, and it is tough to fix your feet! As for the timing gear, if you have the press-on type, it may be wise to replace it with a bolt on type shaft, making future gear replacement easier if needed. Replacement timing gears come in both aluminum and fiber, with the main difference being that the metal gears tend to be noisy, while the fiber gears do occasionally shear a tooth or two. The bolt-on gears can be changed on the road, but the press on type require extensive disassembly.
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| danliveshere | -- 06-26-2010 @ 6:30 AM |
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Thanks for the warning of the bell housing breaking. It has been on there on and off for about 6 months now, so I better get it off while luck is still with me. As for the cam shaft, it is the only item still in the block. I've removed the rear cover and the little gear at the back. I'll get the block off the stand tomorrow and tap the shaft out. Dan.
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| supereal | -- 06-26-2010 @ 1:56 PM |
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Dan: If you plan to install new cam bearings, be sure that the oil and pump rod holes are in the right places when the bearings are in place. Cam bearings are first in line for oil in the block, and it is not always necessary to replace them.
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| danliveshere | -- 06-26-2010 @ 2:30 PM |
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The problem is the camshaft is frozen. I cannot rotate it or move it forward or back(timing gear still on as well. The shaft is the only part still in the block all else has been removed ready for final clean up before assembly. I have to take it back to machine shop to have the deck machined. It is square but too many little imperfections it will have head gasket leaks for sure. I don't have the tool for reinstallind the cam bearings so i might just let the machine shop do it when he does the deck.
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| supereal | -- 06-27-2010 @ 10:41 AM |
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I'd let the shop pull the cam. It takes a special tool to pull and install the cam bearings, which must be correctly positioned. Usually, the crank must be out of the block, or be able to be rotated, to have a camshaft come out. All heads and decks are trued in our shop, and anything less is not acceptable.
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| Pauls39 | -- 06-27-2010 @ 1:28 PM |
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Make sure the fuel pump bushing is not extended past the cam bearing. Pounding on the cam could turn the block to scr*p.
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