Dream38v8 | -- 01-22-2021 @ 3:58 AM |
What steps are required to remove the radiator? I can not find any information in the 1938 - 1939 Ford book. The radiator sprung a small leak after I started running with a pressurized system. This need to get fixed before the touring season starts. I'm now driving the car with the radiator cap loose. Thank you. Stay safe! Ray
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trjford8 | -- 01-22-2021 @ 6:14 AM |
I would recommend that you pull the grille/hood sides. This message was edited by trjford8 on 1-22-21 @ 6:14 AM
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37RAGTOPMAN | -- 01-22-2021 @ 8:35 AM |
HI 38 radiator I remove the top hoses, the radiator support rods, prop up the hood with a broom handle or similar remove the generator ,and fan as a unit, loosen bottom hoses and the radiator mounting bolts, and use card board panel leaning up against the water pumps, so they do not harm the radiator more, you might have to remove the wiring harness cross taps so you do not pull the wires loose, tilt the radiator rearward and remove, have someone help you, to lift it out, hope this helps 1937 Ragtopman
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ford38v8 | -- 01-22-2021 @ 9:31 AM |
Ray, Drain the radiator disconnect the original hood prop Prop hood up high with a long pole remove hood sides remove radiator support rods remove generator with fan remove top radiator hoses install corrugated cardboard onto interior side of radiator remove radiator mounting bolts remove lower radiator hoses with a friend, lift radiator up and out radiator should be flow tested, boiled out, rodded out if needed, pressure tested, and a very light coat of radiator paint applied. no more than 4 lb Pressure cap or the radiator will spring another leak Alan
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Mr Rogers | -- 01-22-2021 @ 10:16 AM |
If $$$$ are of no object you might consider a larger more volume core replacement. It'll run cooler.
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Dream38v8 | -- 01-22-2021 @ 2:03 PM |
This is a group thank you to triford8, 37RAGTOPMAN and ford38v8. Your directions are straightforward and easy to follow. Mr Rodgers, to the best of my knowledge my '38 is close to original. The only aftermarket parts are the electric fuel pump (which I haven't used in 2 years) and Fender header which I love. Hence I want to keep the car as close to original as possible. If the radiator can not be fixed I will have the original recored (if possible) or purchased a new modern radiator. Thanks and stay safe. Ray
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Dream38v8 | -- 01-28-2021 @ 7:21 AM |
Another related question to removing the radiator. I understand the water pumps fasten into the front motor mounts. Do I need to prop up the motor when removing the water pumps? No water pump issues, but since the radiator is out I was considering replacing the water pumps. Recommendations on where to purchase please. Thanks, Ray
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carcrazy | -- 01-28-2021 @ 8:01 AM |
I purchased a new set of water pumps for a '53 from Dennis Carpenter several years ago that have given no trouble in over 4 years and 10K+ miles.
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37RAGTOPMAN | -- 01-28-2021 @ 8:21 AM |
38 RADIATOR if you change the water pumps, you will have to raise the engine with a jack and use a piece of wood on the oil pan ALSO REAL IMPORTANT. in the water pumps, there is a bolt inside the pump, water outlet be sure to use a 6 POINT SOCKET, and do NOT BREAK off the bolt, I think it is 9/16 make sure you clean all surfaces , you could replace the bolt with a stainless steel bolt, hope this helps, 1937Ragtopman
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ford38v8 | -- 01-28-2021 @ 12:20 PM |
Ray, Water pumps can last for many years, or go out suddenly without warning. If I were you, I'd not change them, but rather, keep them on hand for when you do need them. With the radiator out however, is a good convenient time to replace the front motor mounts, as they get loose and mushy often, setting up other problems for you. Alan
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1931 Flamingo | -- 01-28-2021 @ 12:35 PM |
JMO but if you're removing the radiator I would replace the pumps and the hoses and clamps as they are very acessable with the radiator out. Again just my opinion but we all know about "murphy's Law". Paul in CT
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TomO | -- 01-29-2021 @ 7:10 AM |
When replacing the motor mounts, the jack should be placed as far forward on the pan as you can get it. I use an 18" piece of 2x4 placed near the front of the oil pan and then stand the bottle jack on a couple of 2x8 to raise it off the floor and give me a better lift range. Early signs of impending water pump failure are oil seepage from the bushings or coolant leaking from the bushings. I have never had a 37-48 Ford water pump fail suddenly. They usually throw oil or coolant for many miles before they fail. I am not a fan of the sealed bearing water pumps due to the problems that I have had with their fit. I prefer the rebuilt ones done by Skip Haney. Tom
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KenB | -- 01-29-2021 @ 7:39 AM |
I just did my ‘37. I went with an original looking re-core. The challenge I had was not the removal but rather reinstallation of the grill as the top bolts on either side are nearly blind. Got them out but had to remove the headlight buckets to get them in. Still a challenge unless you have eight foot long arms or a helper laying underneath to guide a shocker on an extension holding the bolt into the hole.
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trjford8 | -- 01-29-2021 @ 9:23 AM |
While the radiator is out I would definitely look at replacing the water pumps and hoses. If you know the history of the pumps from the prior owner and can be assured that they were redone not long ago then leave them alone. If you think about replacing them I would use Daryl Fryer in California who advertises in the V-8 Times. A super nice guy and I have used and installed his pumps in friends cars. They work great and the cars run cool. I would also replace the motor mounts if you see that they are old.
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Dream38v8 | -- 03-08-2021 @ 2:49 PM |
I am set to remove the radiator and replace the water pumps tomorrow. The current water pumps are at least 19 years old. I've started hearing water pump squeak so new pumps it is. Daryl Fryer pumps were recommended. I talked to Daryl and he sent the new pumps. What a gentlemen! If only all vendors were like Daryl! Once I completed the project I will post an update. Thanks again for all your support. Ray
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