| blarge | -- 12-09-2020 @ 7:22 AM |
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Thanks to the advice of the Forum, the teflon tape on the threads and the Permatex #2 on the fiber gasket stopped the leak at the drain plug of my 48 Mercury. But, the oil keeps dripping out of the bottom of the oil pan behind the drain plug where the rear part of the pan sits on the bottom surface of the pan. I put 4 quarts of new oil in the pan and the drips are nice clean new. Is the oil level in the pan/sump above the pan gasket and rear main cap to block surface? Any ideas as to the cause of this leak? The car has 12.00 miles since rebuild with a new rope seal. Thanks Bill Large
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| pauls39coupe | -- 12-09-2020 @ 8:49 AM |
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Hi Bill, It is not likely that the oil level is over the gasket/rear main, unless you have added 8-10 quarts of oil or the pan is crushed. The only easy solution would be to tighten the pan bolts hopeing that some were just loose. We have seen oil pump pickup tubes that are formed incorrectly and will rest on the bottom of the pan holding it down. Some of those pan rails are damaged/bent causing leaks. I would also check your oil lines and filter to be sure the leak did not start there. We have been using "Graphtite" brand rear seals from Speedway with good luck. Some of the other replacement seals don't hold up. The seals should be installed somewhat proud of the surface and topped with a dab of sealer. Almost all flatheads leak some, nature of the beast. How much oil are you using over what period of time?
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| kubes40 | -- 12-09-2020 @ 8:52 AM |
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The drip that remains sounds as if the pan has a tiny hole in it. To clarify... rearward of the drain plug on the flat surface? Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 12-09-2020 @ 11:18 AM |
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hi blarge just make sure your oil breather cap is not clogged, it is a slim chance that if it were, the engine is building pressure in the crankcase and forcing the oil out ? what weight oil are you using, reg oil or synthetic synthetic oil will cause oil leaks on these old engines, with out using modern seals also do you park the car forward on a steep driveway hill, ? let's hear how you made out, my 2 cents 37Ragtopman
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| 51woodie | -- 12-09-2020 @ 3:34 PM |
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Mike may have a point about a small hole. When I was refurbishing the engine compartment on '46 Super Deluxe, did a light "blast" on the air cleaner, painted it, filed to the line with oil and installed. A few days later there was a bit of oil puddled on the intake manifold. I felt a film of oil on the bottom side of the filter housing. I removed and drained the filter, and no hole. A closer look, showed pitting inside the bottom of the filter. I held it up to a light, and there was a very small pin hole. That was the problem, and easily fixed with a wipe of solder.
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| kubes40 | -- 12-09-2020 @ 4:18 PM |
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51, Oh yeah... I too have seen this on oil pans that were beautiful inside and out. Refinish, install and only then find the smallest of leaks. Frustrating !!! Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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| supereal | -- 12-10-2020 @ 1:56 PM |
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Bill: Removing an oil pan in the vehicle is always a struggle. If you can locate the pin hole, a small sheet metal screw will usually do it. Wipe the area clean, and put a dab of Permatex or other good sealer on the screw before you tighten it down.
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| sarahcecelia | -- 12-11-2020 @ 6:11 PM |
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The oil in the pan is not above the pan gasket, or the rear main seal. If you installed the rear main seal with the seams horizontal it will leak when you drive the car. The seams have to be offset, at eight o'clock and two'clock to prevent leakage when the car is driven! It will also leak if the pan bolts are tighened so much that, just like o'head valve covers,that they distort the metal in the gasket area! The both only take a guess, of about, 6 lbs. of torque. Regards, Steve Lee
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| TomO | -- 12-12-2020 @ 2:49 PM |
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I believe that Steve's advice is incorrect for a flathead Ford or Mercury engine. Read the service manual. Tom
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