| stewgibb | -- 06-23-2010 @ 7:45 AM |
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I have a 21,261 mile '36 Ford that was converted to '39 hydraulic brakes, way back. As I look at the lines I have some questions. Does anyone nearby have a '39 Ford so I can see how the lines are run? I would invite anyone to see the '36 and tell me about the conversion. The car is just outside Harpers Ferry in WV and part of my friend's estate to be sold. Stewart 302-249-6233 (cell)
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| flatheadfan | -- 06-24-2010 @ 2:46 AM |
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Stewgibb- I didn't mimic the '39 arrange on my '35. I tended to follow the more "modern arrangement" of a single rear line. I used a '39 pedal assembly with a '39-'48 master cylinder. I have a dual outlet junction block on the back of the m/c. I use one outlet for the stop light switch. I use a GM switch because it is similar to the Ford unit but has screw mounts for the switch wires. This allows use of the original wiring without having to cut and splice on plug-on clips. The other opening on the junction block is for the hydraulic line. This line goes over to the driver's side frame, along the frame to the vacuum booster. The "out" line of the booster goes to a 3-way junction block. One line goes to the front and one line goes to the rear. The rear line goes down the left side frame and ends with a flex hose attached to a dual outlet junction block which is bolted to the top bolt of the torque tube/rear banjo. From there I have a brake line going to each wheel. As mentioned, I also have a vacuum booster on the system. The vacuum brake booster is a '54-'57 Ford unit. To avoid drilling any holes in the frame. I simply made up a bracket which bolted to existing running board bolts and then bolted the booster to the bracket. For a vacuum source I am using a vacuum tap that was used with a variety of Ford vacuum accessories such as the Southwind heater. These "taps" are fairly common and not hard to find. For an emergency brake I used the original mechanical brake master unit (this is the unit that bolts on the frame behind the transmission). I ran a redi-rod from there through the frame to a cable spreader and then to the rear wheels. Looks "factory." All brakes are "standard" redi-made 1/4" brake line tubing which is readily available at any auto parts store (cheap). For a floor pan access opening I am using an electrical wire junction unit with swivel cover (available at any hardware store). I found this much neater than just simply cutting a hole in the floor and stuffing a '40 rubber grommet in it. If needed I have more pictures of my brake layout, just send me your email address and I will send them to you. Hope this helps. Tom
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| stewgibb | -- 06-24-2010 @ 5:35 AM |
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Thank-you for your response. I would love to see any pictures. The lines now run all over and I am concerned. I would like to offer buyers the option of improving the brakes or I may have to improve it to sell.
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| supereal | -- 06-24-2010 @ 7:25 AM |
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It sounds as if the brake conversion was non-professional. In that case, it is vital that all the connections are double flared, and no compression fittings or non-steel lines are involved. We see some of these now and then, and many resulted from trying to make precut and flared lines fit the space, or repair a leaking line. I can't think of any system on a vehicle that is more important than reliable brakes. If there is any doubts, I'd be sure to inform the prospective buyer in writing that you believe the brake system is deficient to protect yourself in the event of a failure.
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| stewgibb | -- 06-24-2010 @ 12:53 PM |
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The system hasn't been used much for a long time. There are only 200 miles on the car since my friend bought it in 1991. The impression I got was that it was done back in '39 or '40.
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| stewgibb | -- 06-24-2010 @ 1:00 PM |
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It looks like they took the lines out of a 39 car and they had to be rerouted for the 36. They are not a neat as a custom or factory job.
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| ford38v8 | -- 06-24-2010 @ 5:01 PM |
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Bob, I happen to know you're not too old to remember that the most important system to have in a Ford is not the brakes, but rather, the female on the seat next to you. If ever in doubt again, just ask her. Alan
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| fenbach | -- 06-24-2010 @ 6:39 PM |
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another thought on the emergency brake. i put the shorter front brake rods in back and "attached" the clevis on the brake rods to the emergency brake cable by putting u-shaped cable clamps on the emergency brake cable to catch the clevis. i ran the middle [slack] part of the cable over the drive shaft to keep it out of the way. works nicely if you ask me. another thought. my drive shaft bearing came loose and the car shook horribly at speeds over 30MPH. to keep that from happening again, i drilled and threaded a hole opposite the grease zerk in the center of the drive shaft and installed a bolt with a stop nut. the bearing has a hole on each side. the bolt sits in the hole [opposite the zerk] and holds the bearing in place. so far, at least.
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