| Gary M. | -- 11-13-2020 @ 5:16 PM |
|
Hi guys, I'm trying to figure out a good multi weight oil to use for my 39 V8 85 hp. I have no idea how many miles are on the car. The engine has never been rebuilt but runs well. There is a sticky valve that loosens up sometimes, and when it does, the car takes off like a rocket ! I am going to do a crankcase flush and change the oil to a multi weight oil. I live in NY ,so the temps are between high 90s in the summer and 20s in the winter. I usually only take the car out in 70s or 80s weather but occasionally I will participate a Christmas tree lighting ceremony. I'm wondering if I change to a lighter grade oil, will that help with the sticky valve. Presently I am using straight 40w mainly because I'm not sure how much wear there is on the engine. What do you guys think ? Thanks ......
|
|
| bo8109b | -- 11-13-2020 @ 5:58 PM |
|
With the unknowns that you have, I would use 20w50 (Any brand) and add about 4oz of marvel Mystery oil to both the gas tank and crankcase for that sticking valve. Then run it on the highway at various speeds as though you were breaking in the engine.
|
|
| Gary M. | -- 11-13-2020 @ 7:37 PM |
|
Wow, that's old school where I come from. Marvel is what I used on everything in the 70s. That stuff is liquid gold !! I'll go with your advice on the oil and the marvel and take it for a nice ride to loosen things up. Fingers crossed !!
|
|
| mfirth | -- 11-14-2020 @ 4:40 AM |
|
Time 2 on MMO and 20/50 !
|
|
| alanwoodieman | -- 11-14-2020 @ 5:14 AM |
|
Kendall 20w50 and MMO
|
|
| sarahcecelia | -- 11-14-2020 @ 5:27 AM |
|
I believe that the "BASE" of Marvel Mystery Oil" is Automatic Transmission fluid. Ford " back in the day" used oil with ZINC in it To protect the camshaft lobes,and tappets. "All OIL" in that time had ZINC in it, but later the EPA made the oil companies take it out! Now "Valvoline 20/50 Racing oil" has ZINK in it, and I highly recommend using that in your "Flat Tappet"/camshaft car! The Zinc cushions and Protects the cam lobes and tappets!Any Flat Head motor guy "Worth his Salt" knows this. I once talked to Harold "Putt" Smith, (the Flathead Guru) about this very subject, and he agreed whole heartedly with what I said about oil with zinc for Flat Heads!!; and nobody knew more about them than he did!!He built his first flathead(for the neighbor acrross the street) when he was 12 years old!!! Regards, Steve Lee
|
|
| Gary M. | -- 11-14-2020 @ 1:36 PM |
|
Thanks again guys for all your advice. Hopefully my sticky valve will loosen up and the car will run young again !! Thanks, Gary ....
|
|
| supereal | -- 11-19-2020 @ 9:49 AM |
|
It is more than likely that your sticky valve will not be fixed by time and new oil . If you haven't already done a compression test to determine the affected cylinder(s), it should be done before anything else. To get access to the valve train, remove the intake manifold. Check the valve and spring for a buildup of deposits. Some times prying the valve stem up and down will free it up. be sure that the valve is in the closed position so it won't come in contact with the cylinder head as you pry. If you find the usual buildup of sludge in the bottom of the valve chamber, try to wipe as much as possible, but don't use solvent.
|
|
| flatheadron | -- 12-03-2020 @ 6:45 AM |
|
I use synthetic 10W30 oil in all my flatheads. Find one the is rated for older engines and that says it contains the zinc additive. Stay away from newer "SN" rated oils. Good flow on cold starts and good protection at high temps. I live in Michigan so weather is similar to yours. Have used this for 15 years now with no problems. Since a lot of members use Marvel Mystery Oil, I would suggest you try adding some to the gas to see if it will help free up that sticking valve. I used to know a guy back in the late '60's who sold MMO. He drove a '53 Merc as his daily transportation that a had a MMO kit on it that injected MMO into the intake. As a selling tool he would remove a spark plug to show the internal cylinder. They were as clean as if you had removed the head and physically cleaned the chambers. The stuff just might work. Would not take much to rig up a similar system using a jar, hose, vacuum fitting, and a carb jet. Might take some time to find the right size jet but it is worth a try.
|
|
| kubes40 | -- 12-03-2020 @ 6:54 AM |
|
Kendall 20w50 and MMO x2 Mike "Kube" Kubarth
|
|
| TomO | -- 12-03-2020 @ 7:26 AM |
|
You might try a full synthetic like Mobil 1 10w-30 in your engine. My Lincoln always had an intermittent miss that cleared up after driving for a while. I switched to Mobile 1 and after driving 500 miles, the miss is gone and the engine seems to have a lot more power. When I can drive my 40 more, I intend to try the Mobil 1 in it. Tom
|
|
| carcrazy | -- 12-03-2020 @ 11:43 AM |
|
Use a good SAE 30 weight detergent oil such as Pennzoil. The oils currently available, with the API Service SN designation, unfortunately do not have the required amount of ZDDP to minimize cam lobe and tappet wear. To provide the required amount of ZDDP use Red Line Engine Oil Break-In Additive and follow the directions on the label. While the SAE 30 will make the car harder to start on cold days, it will cut down on oil leakage and usage. Multi-weight and synthetic oils seem to find more leakage paths in the older, non-rebuilt engines.
|
|
| FordHead | -- 12-05-2020 @ 5:30 AM |
|
Previous owner was using full synthetic 10w-30 on my 36 but I did not like the engine sound (ticking) and oil pressure. I switched to 10w-40 and a can of STP. Motor sounds much better once hot and oil pressure increased 8-10 pounds when hot or cold. I plan on trying 20w-50 next oil change. 1936 Ford
|
|
| windjamer | -- 12-09-2020 @ 10:17 AM |
|
I run Valvoline 20W50 racing oil.. It has the Zink you engine needs and the detergent to keep the valves from sticking. I also add Marvel Mystery oil for no other reason than it is a Flat Head!
|
|
| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=14325 |