| silverchief | -- 06-22-2010 @ 11:51 AM |
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Am attaching photo of the hot water heater in my 46 coupe. I believe it to be aftermarket accepted by Ford. True? Also, if it turns out the motor is shot, is it normally repaired or what would be good source for a new one. Thanks very much.
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| supereal | -- 06-22-2010 @ 12:25 PM |
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That is the typical heater for your car. They were usually added on by the dealer, so may vary slightly in appearance. The original switch is a five position type, with a high and low on each side,(direct and indirect air flow) and "off" in the middle. They accomplished this by switching polarity to reverse the fan and to provide speeds in both directions. Universal heater motors are available from C&G. See page 232 of their online catalog. If your motor is OK, but the switch is missing or bad, you will have to advertise for a replacement, as they are not reproduced, as far as I know. Most replacement motors are direct flow only.
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| TomO | -- 06-22-2010 @ 5:52 PM |
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The heater motors usually just need new brushes. Most shops that rebuild generators will put in new brushes for you. I had one done locally for $65 and that included installing a new reproduction wiring harness that I supplied. There are 4 wires coming from the motor. The yellow and the green wires come from the field windings and the red and brown wires come from the brushes. If your colors have faded so they all look yellow, I use an ohm meter to make an initial guess as to which wires are from the brushes and which wires are from the field and then I use a battery hooked up to a switch to determine which of the wires used for forward and reverse direction of the motor. Usually you can see a little of the green cast on the green wire and the red color on the red wire. If you connect your ohm meter between the green wire and the yellow wire, you will have near zero ohms resistance. Any other wire will show an open condition. The reading will not vary when you rotate the motor shaft. When you connect the red and brown wires, you will have more resistance than the field connections showed and it will vary slightly as you turn the motor. To check the motor out without a switch, connect the green wire to the POS terminal of a 6 volt battery ( a lantern battery will work for convenience), then connect the yellow (field) wire with the red (brush) wire together and then the remaining brown (brush) wire to the Neg terminal of the battery the motor should run. If you are using a lantern battery, the motor may require some assistance to start. Tom
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| silverchief | -- 06-22-2010 @ 6:16 PM |
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Thanks guys - you are the usual wealth of information I printed it out for reference when needed.
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