Topic: Installing the "Quick Start"


budlite28    -- 10-29-2020 @ 10:41 AM
  I was wondering if the quick start wire should be made as a jumper, only used when starting or can it be installed permanently.


MG    -- 10-29-2020 @ 11:08 AM
  The design and description of the circuit indicates a permanent installation....


budlite28    -- 10-29-2020 @ 3:02 PM
  Thanks for your help

Steve Morgan


RAK402    -- 10-29-2020 @ 8:58 PM
  My father drew up a simple circuit with a second ignition resister and a relay, so that when you pressed the starter button, the relay would close, and the second resister would be in parallel with the first, dropping the total resistance in half, but only while the starter button was pressed.

It is interesting to see an entirely different approach to the same problem.


39 Ken    -- 10-30-2020 @ 4:50 AM
  Budlite 28,
Sure you can do a temporary "Quick start" arrangement.

Look at the quick start diagram that "Supereal" made.
Look at the wire that runs from the starter lug on the solenoid through
the diode to the coil . Change that wire to a jumper wire with alligator
clips on either end. Replace the diode with an on/off switch .

To use, hook up the alligator clips; one end to the coil and the other end to the hot side of the solenoid, (switch off). Once connected, turn on
the switch, start the car, turn off the jumper wire switch and remove the
jumper wire. Be careful of the spinning fan blade and the belts.

Having said all that, I DON'T RECOMMEND this because you can hurt yourself.

If you absolutely need a "Quick start arrangement", follow the diagram
for a permanent "Fix" as described. You can conceal the wire and diode and
no one will be the wiser. I have done this and it works well.

Or better yet, tune up your electrical system with a good battery and generator, good grounds, etc. and you won't need a "band aid" fix.

Ken

This message was edited by 39 Ken on 10-30-20 @ 11:33 AM


budlite28    -- 10-30-2020 @ 5:55 PM
  thanks, Ken. The battery is good, the generator is putting out 7.6v at high idle. But after driving while the coil gets hot and I lose spark. I used a cold beer can out of the cooler on top of the coil and in just a few minutes it fire right up. I ordered a new coil & condensor. I'll see if that works along with the easy start


37RAGTOPMAN    -- 10-31-2020 @ 6:08 AM
  budlite
I had the same problem,
you coil is failing., sooner or later it will not work and you will get stuck,

send the coil to Skip Haney in FL, to get rebuilt, money well spent,
he is in the V8 TIMES,
Hope this helps 37Ragtopman Maine

This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 10-31-20 @ 6:59 AM


39 Ken    -- 10-31-2020 @ 6:15 AM
  Bud,
You didn't say what year Ford you have but I'm guessing
it is somewhere between 1932 and 1948. If so, I would be
hesitant in buying a "new" coil from any of the usual suppliers.
Those coils are made "off shore", probably china. They have a history
of poor performance and a high failure rate.

I suggest that you get in touch with Skip Haney in Punta Gorda , Fl.
He will rebuild your original coil with new modern parts and technology.
They will work in the warmest of conditions and won't degrade in
performance as the coil warms up.

Skip can be reached: e-mail skiphaneyfl@aol.com or by phone 941-505-9085.

Ken





TomO    -- 11-01-2020 @ 8:03 AM
  If your dwell is incorrect, you can also overheat the coil. A leaky condenser will also over heat the coil.

The "quick start" circuit will not help you if the coil is getting hot and failing.

Tom

This message was edited by TomO on 11-1-20 @ 8:04 AM


budlite28    -- 11-03-2020 @ 8:31 PM
  I bought a new coil & condenser but I can not figure out how to remove the old one. The condenser is bolted to the block which I see no easy way to remove the bolt and to the coil which is inaccessable, also. Am I missing something?


TomO    -- 11-04-2020 @ 7:58 AM
  To remove the coil, you must remove the passenger side distributor mounting bolt and then the 2 coil mounting bolts.

I remove the passenger side distributor cap and then use a 1/4" drive, 1/2" short 6 point flex socket with a short extension and my 1/4" drive ratchet to remove the bolt. The 3/8" flex socket is just a little too long to fit in there.

I have have the Snap-on socket set, if i were to replace it, I prefer the socket that lists for $22.63 on this link
https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/Hand-Tools/Hand-Sockets?searchterm=1%2F4"+drive+1%2F2"+universal+socket&navid=4287685565

The one from Sears should work, but it is taller and probably will not fit on the bolt due to interference between the shoulder of the socket and the distributor housing.
https://www.sears.com/search=swivel%20socket%20set%201%204%20drive?storeId=10153&catalogId=12605&levels=Tools&searsTab=true

You can also access the bolt using an open end wrench and sliding the wrench between the plug wire conduits and the block.

Tom

This message was edited by TomO on 11-4-20 @ 8:01 AM


budlite28    -- 11-04-2020 @ 8:10 AM
  Thanks Tom0, I thought that was the case. Just wanted to make sure before I dismantled the entire motor to get to it


supereal    -- 11-19-2020 @ 9:59 AM
  The point of using a diode is to make a simple device without a relay or dash button. Just be sure that diode is "facing" the right direction as noted in my instructions. I agree with my friend TomO, and others, that a weak coil will not be improved. The premise of the circuit is to offset the loss of power caused by the starter, particularly when the coil and starter is very hot, As heat goes up, current goes down due to increased resistance (Ohm's Law).


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