| silverchief | -- 06-22-2010 @ 11:45 AM |
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All old Fords leak oil. Seems I read that somewhere. My 49 pickup is no exception. It sits more than it is driven, and a small amount of oil is always present in the drip pan, and on the oil pan surface at the plug and round clean out plate. Is this always a "rear seal" problem and is it worth the cost of replacement. In other words, will it hold. Going into a shop for other mechanical repairs and am wondering if I should ask them to address this - or accept this malady.
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| supereal | -- 06-22-2010 @ 12:01 PM |
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There is an old (and true) saying about old Fords: "If it ain't leakin', it needs fixin'". Ford thoughtfully placed a large cotter pin in the drain hole at the bottom of the clutch pan to be sure the seepage from the rear main seal didn't end up on the clutch facing. The rope seals nearly always seep, and will leak badly if the ends were trimmed at installation. There are Kevlar seals being sold today that are supposed to eliminate the need to soak the ropes before putting them in. Pulling an engine just to replace a rear main packing that is only seeping usually isn't worth the effort.
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| BMora | -- 06-22-2010 @ 12:59 PM |
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My 52 Ford F6 with the 8RT leaks just like you describe. I don't worry about it; I just make sure that the first start of the day is preceded by an oil level check. I run straight 30 as prescribed by the original glove compartment sticker. I hear that many run straight 40 which may leak less.
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| TomO | -- 06-22-2010 @ 5:13 PM |
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Your problem seems to be a leaking drain plug or the gasket for the clean out plate. Before replacing the clean out gasket, clean all of the oil from the pan and then let it sit. If there is fresh oil, you should replace the gaskets for the clean out and the drain plug. If there is no fresh oil and there is after you drive it, the front main seal could be leaking and the oil traveling back to the lowest point. Tom
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 06-22-2010 @ 5:21 PM |
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silver chief. check your breather pipe and clean out your cap,if it is clogged it will push oil out the rear main and other places, the rear main is the first place it will come out of, usually it also could be if the rear seal is leaking the main bearing's are worn also, this is where youe decide to run it like it is or rebuild the entire engine, KEEP ON TRUCKIN 37 RAGTOPMAN
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| silverchief | -- 06-22-2010 @ 6:31 PM |
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Performance wise, and as judged by people who should know, all indications are the basic engine is in excellent condition. It is driven short distances on weekends during summer months. Dip stick never shows any real reason for concern. I'm going to take the advise re the breather cap. Also wipe the bottom of the pan clean and see what it looks like after sitting all week. Thanks very much for helpful information including about manufacture of the rear seal.
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| alanwoodieman | -- 06-23-2010 @ 9:14 AM |
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here is another theory, 30 and 40 wt oil is heavy at start up causing high oil pressure--check your gauge and see if this is true--were as multiweight is thinner at start up and flows better with less oil pressure. I run 20w50 castrol and my engine seems to leak less than with a straight weight oil, just something to think about, but as some one else said, if it ain't leaking it needs to have oil added to it cause it is getting ready to lock up for lack of oil
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| supereal | -- 06-23-2010 @ 9:32 AM |
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One other factor to consider: be sure that your dipstick is correct for he engine, as many are not. After completely draining the oil and filter container, refill with the correct amount of 5 quarts with filter, four without. Then examine your dipstick to see if it shows "full" after running the engine to fill the filter. If not, mark the stick with a punch or chisel. Any overfilling of the oil pan will soon pass the rope seals. You can always tell an old car guy by the layers of cardboard on his garage floor where he parks his old vehicle.
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| alanwoodieman | -- 06-24-2010 @ 6:41 AM |
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I have only got two layers of cardboard, I said mine does not leak very much!!
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