flatfoot | -- 09-23-2020 @ 2:58 PM |
Does anyone know where I can purchase a switch fir my dash lights? My,36 original is 6 volts. I have added some photos for ya all. Thank you again. This message was edited by flatfoot on 9-28-20 @ 4:00 PM
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40 Coupe | -- 09-24-2020 @ 4:39 AM |
You may want to post this in the wanted section. Do you have a switch that is not working, or missing? There is a difference between the Standard and Dlx dash knob color, but the knob can be changed.
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fortyford | -- 09-24-2020 @ 8:47 AM |
Flatfoot,there is an original on ebay for sale now.I think for $20 I am not sure if this is what your looking for?Do you have a part #? https://www.ebay.com/itm/1934-1935-1936-1937-ford-light-switch-original/113805899823?hash=item1a7f5c382f:g:B7cAAOSwYF9bS5tE This message was edited by fortyford on 9-24-20 @ 9:51 AM
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flatfoot | -- 09-24-2020 @ 10:44 AM |
The switch does not work. It is the original one. The suppliers I know do not have it. I can get the knobs, but not the entire switch. Thanks for your response.
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flatfoot | -- 09-24-2020 @ 10:47 AM |
No, the switch on E-Bay is for a different year model. I do not know the Part Number. Thanks for your response.
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fortyford | -- 09-24-2020 @ 11:55 AM |
flatfoot, you may post in the wanted section on here and the Ford Barn and by chance locate one.
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pinnsky | -- 09-24-2020 @ 1:02 PM |
It is possible to repair the old switch. Carefully bend the tabs on the rear and it will come apart. You can the clean and reassemble it. Remember, the switch is on when it is pushed in and off when pulled out. Strange, but true.
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40 Coupe | -- 09-24-2020 @ 3:53 PM |
Before taking it apart...If the two wire terminals seem to be bent toward each other, try to insert a piece of plastic between the terminals so the plastic forces the terminals straight. You will have to leave the plastic in place, so trim it . Then try the switch. The 36 and 37 dash light switches are the same except for the knob.
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flatfoot | -- 09-25-2020 @ 9:42 PM |
Yes, I did try to repair but it is beyond repair. the inside components are just worn out. It has a thick paper or card inside it is all but gone. It is part of the switch itself. Can not replace it. Thank you for your response.
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TomO | -- 09-26-2020 @ 7:39 AM |
The P/N of the switch is 68-13740. Can you post photos of your switch, after you have taken it apart, we may be able to give you some ideas on how to repair it. Tom
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Mr Rogers | -- 09-26-2020 @ 2:50 PM |
I'd be interested in seeing a picture because my 36 doesn't have a dash switch. All my light switching is in the center steering wheel. There isn't an available hole in the dash.
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flatfoot | -- 09-28-2020 @ 3:49 PM |
I'm hesitant to take it completely apart. Maybe after I find one that will work.
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40 Coupe | -- 09-29-2020 @ 5:28 AM |
Below is a 37 dash light switch. As mentioned above the 36 is identical except the plastic knob.
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juergen | -- 09-29-2020 @ 5:50 AM |
My question to you is "when would you want your dash lights off when your headlights are on?". I always have the switch in and hence connected when the lights are on. I jumped the connections inside the switch so it does not show.
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flatfoot | -- 09-30-2020 @ 11:00 AM |
Okay, I'll give it a try and take photos. Any particular way or angle?
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flatfoot | -- 10-05-2020 @ 4:58 PM |
Here are some photos.
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Jacques1960 | -- 10-06-2020 @ 5:26 AM |
That appears salvageable; addressing corrosion might be a good starting point to see if you can improve continuity
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37RAGTOPMAN | -- 10-06-2020 @ 5:41 AM |
hi if you find a 36 switch, that goes into the dash, I would try electric motor cleaner in a spray can, before taking it apart, it just might work, I do this all the time, might save some labor, could you post a few photos so we know what we are dealing with,? my 2 cents, 37Ragtopman This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 10-6-20 @ 12:12 PM
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TomO | -- 10-06-2020 @ 8:29 AM |
It looks like a good cleaning should solve your problem. Give it a light coat of Vaseline before your reassemble it. It will lubricate the contacts and extend the life of them. Tom
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flatfoot | -- 10-31-2020 @ 10:25 AM |
I did this but it didn't not work. It has a short and won't stay on. I have to jiggle it but it still won't stay on. (Gnarl GGGGGGGGGGG).
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TomO | -- 11-01-2020 @ 7:58 AM |
Without having a switch in my hands, I am just guessing. Here is the way that I think the switch works. I have labeled what I think are the 2 contacts in the switch, you can verify this with an ohm meter. With the switch in the IN position, the contacts should be touching. When you pull the switch out, the piece connected to the knob pushes the latch enough to open the contacts. The way that I would try to get it to work is: Connect an ohm meter between the 2 connectors on the back of the switch. With the switch apart, you should have continuity between the connectors. If you do not have continuity, bend the moveable contact so you will have continuity. When you have continuity with the switch apart, try assembling the switch with the meter connected and the kob pushed in. If you lose continuity, try rotating the parts slightly to regain continuity. If a slight rotation will not restore continuity, bend the latch slightly away from the piece on the knob. Tom
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Bob56 | -- 11-03-2020 @ 3:55 AM |
saw this on the Ford barn https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=289608
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1931 Flamingo | -- 11-03-2020 @ 6:13 AM |
You beat me to it. I've bought from him. Good guy ! Paul in CT
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camsaure | -- 11-05-2020 @ 8:15 PM |
OK, I will take a stab at it, maybe some young sport had a questionable date that he did not want to be seen with or even want to see her. No But seriously, my guess would be when parked with the parking lights on there would be 2 or 3 less bulbs to draw electricity.
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