| Dad'sOld'36 | -- 09-05-2020 @ 7:04 AM |
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I need some help gauging a fair offer for a parts chassis. It's a partially disassembled rolling chassis, unmodified with mech brakes, wheels and hubcaps, steering box/column/wheel (not banjo), engine, transmission, all eng accessories and radiator. The engine is reported as running when pulled and is the correct 21-stud with insert bearings instead of babbitting. The are also several gauges, the seat (coupe), miscellaneous interior parts and a pair of rear fenders (coupe). The seller pulled the body to build a hot rod and now wants to liquidate the old mechanical parts. These parts will go a long way towards rebuilding my dad's car due to misplaced pieces and improper storage of the engine. I have no use for the seat or fenders and the seller has proposed a package price separating those items. I'd like your input as to what a reasonable offer would be. I have a value in mind, but have little experience in buying and selling parts for these cars and want to be sure I make a fair and reasonable offer. Your help is much appreciated.
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| trjford8 | -- 09-05-2020 @ 7:26 AM |
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What is the asking price for the complete package and what is the asking price minus the fenders and seat? You currently have no first hand knowledge of the condition of the motor and can't hear it run. You also have no idea of the condition of the radiator or the other parts for that matter. I would get the owner to throw some numbers at you. Those coupe fenders and the seat can be worth a fair amount if in good condition. I would put the ball in the owners court first before making an offer.
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| kubes40 | -- 09-05-2020 @ 8:10 AM |
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The seller has to know what he wants for the stuff. I typically don't deal (waste my time) with the "best offer" guys. I don't believe that the seat is valuable. Unless by shear coincidence, there's a local guy that wants it, most folks are not willing to pay for the shipping. Maybe $250ish? The engine? Yeah, they ALL ran "when pulled". Read the intended sarcasm. They are also ALL "insert bearing" blocks. Yep, read the sarcasm there as well. Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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| 51504bat | -- 09-05-2020 @ 8:34 AM |
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Title? ______________ No signature
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| Dad'sOld'36 | -- 09-05-2020 @ 10:46 AM |
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I understand the 'ran when parked'/'ran when pulled' aspect and I'll definitely pull the pan and heads on the engine before I buy it. Not that babbitt bearings are a total non-starter. No title. He advertised the engine for $1500. When asked, he said he wanted $5k for all, $4k less fenders and seat. I personally feel it's worth a little less than 1/2 what he's asking, especially since running and 'drivable' cars regularly show up in the 6-8k range. I don't have any experience trading parts for these cars, which is why I requested your input. 1936 Ford Tudor Deluxe 1953 Willys CJ-3B 1954 Willys CJ-3B (x2) 1947 Bantam T3C trailer 1966 Ford F-100
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| kubes40 | -- 09-05-2020 @ 10:55 AM |
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From what you've described, I think you are closer to reality than he. I'm sure you are aware you are buying a bunch of cores... engine, trans, radiator - all of unknown condition. I have always video taped an engine running that I had intended to pull and subsequently sell. That in itself still offers little proof as to the quality but rather, only proof that it ran prior to pulling. Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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| wmsteed | -- 09-05-2020 @ 11:30 AM |
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I have to agree with "Kubes" comment (s).. I know many guys in the Street Rodder world and therefore I am exposed to many opportunities to purchase rolling, running chassis' that have been removed from various vehicles in favor of modern upgrades to vintage vehicles. throughout the years I have purchased many rolling/running chassis', Buick, Chevy, Ford, Plymouth and Studebaker, to name a few. The owner of the chassis in question should have an idea as to what he would like to get for the package. With the price of scr*pe metal being in the toilet, a friend of mine recently cut up a 78 Chevy C10 so he could take it to the recycle yard, he got $40. for the metal. It is very difficult to put a value on someone else's treasure, beauty and value is in the eye of the beholder. When all is said and done, I'd say $200, and if that don't get it, walk away. Bill 36 5 win delx cpe
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| ford38v8 | -- 09-05-2020 @ 1:53 PM |
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I'd agree with Kube on half what he asks, but on condition that the title goes with it. Sounds to me like he's going to wait a long time for a better offer, then sell it for less just to be rid of it. Alan
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| trjford8 | -- 09-05-2020 @ 5:00 PM |
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If they are coupe/ roadster and in very good shape they would be worth about $1500 for the pair( west coast prices).I would offer the guy $2200 for the entire pile. Leave him the offer and your phone # and tell him he is welcome to use your offer as a starting point if anyone else is interested. My guess is he will call you. If somebody else steps up then it wasn't meant to be for you. The market is soft out there and the old days of having people beating a path to your door for old V-8 parts is not there.
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| TomO | -- 09-06-2020 @ 9:54 AM |
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A frame without a title is basically worth scr*p metal price. If the seller intends to use the title to register his car and you want to use the frame on your car, you will have problems with registration or selling the car. When you decide to sell the car, the buyer will want to see the serial number on the frame and it should match the title. A friend just sold a 36 insert engine that ran before it was stored for $700. He had offered it for that price a few years ago and did not get any takers. Just remember the antique car owner's lament about cars and parts, " looked to be in mint condition until I owned them." Tom
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| wmsteed | -- 09-06-2020 @ 11:41 AM |
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I have never received a title on any of the many chassis' I have bought. The seller of the chassis generally is putting a modern chassis under the '36 body and intends to register the vehicle as a '36. In resent years I have purchased several bare frames for vintage vehicles, receiving a Bill of Sale for the frame. My only concern about the frame was that the serial number was on the frame and in readable condition. I then pass the frame and Bill of Sale onto a Hot Rodder that has a car all built that appears to be a XXXX but does not have a valid serial number, in the correct place, because the frame was cut off in favor of a modern front clip. Bill 36 5 win delx cpe
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| Dad'sOld'36 | -- 09-07-2020 @ 7:58 AM |
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I'm not concerned with the title as I will not be using the frame. I'm after the mechanical parts as spares/cores and the miscellaneous hardware pieces that I haven't been able to locate in the piles of parts in dad's garage. I also want the front axle/wishbone assembly. Dad had a minor wreck in his car in 1969 that bent the axle. Thanks to all for the input! 1936 Ford Tudor Deluxe 1953 Willys CJ-3B 1954 Willys CJ-3B (x2) 1947 Bantam T3C trailer 1966 Ford F-100
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| v8er | -- 09-11-2020 @ 11:20 AM |
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Another way to look at the situation is to make a list of parts that your car needs and estimate the cost of those parts. That total cost may be significantly less than the cost of this deal. You know now that you would be buying a frame, fenders and seat that you don't need. What other parts does your car need beside a front axle and wishbone?
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