Ketronj281989 | -- 07-31-2020 @ 4:48 AM |
Hello, I wanted to introduce myself as a new registered member of the club. A little bio, I am 31 years old and am an enthusiast of all things 1930’s. I specialize in pre-WWII tube radio and record changer restoration, having over 12 years’ experience in this field servicing all 1930’s radio makes and models including car radios. I use a special 6V power supply to test each application will under restoration. I have lightly dabbled in the past with 1950’s cars; my true passion has always been the mid to late 1930’s automobiles. I was always fascinated with Henry Ford’s flathead V8. In my opinion it was a revolutionary engine for the 1930’s time period; no other manufacture produced a V8 on a mass production level. Very few auto companies offered V8 engines to the customer aside from the niche market of 1930’s Cadillac that I know of. This message was edited by Ketronj281989 on 7-31-20 @ 4:57 AM
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Ketronj281989 | -- 07-31-2020 @ 4:56 AM |
If I were to have a 1930’s car, I discovered it would have to be one of the superior engines of the time period. Affordable as well as plenty of parts available and beautiful body style’s including deluxe features and innovations, I knew it would have to be a Ford product. I have always liked the 1936 year, love the grille and updated body style compared with the 1935 year car. My dream of owning a 1930’s car came true just a few weeks ago. I was looking for an original, good/excellent condition, unmolested factory original car. A two door example that ranged between a Tudor and coupe was on my list. The Tudor’s are more affordable regarding my current budget. A coupe would be nice down the road if I ever have an opportunity to own one. This recent purchase I made met the above criteria, I purchased an original un-restored/well preserved survivor 1936 Tudor touring deluxe sedan. I wanted to share this car with all of you. My goal with this car is to achieve maximum factory original mechanical performance just as when the car was new off the assembly line. I want to make the car reliable, able to make a 100/500 or more mile trip if I so desire. I want the car in top mechanical shape; I do not want to deviate from factory specifications. I want to preserve the original interior; original enameled black paint as well as all cosmetic details. I may do an engine rebuild way down the road, transmission if needed. Right now I am in the process of evaluating and servicing to achieve road worthy status. My goal is to have a sound mechanically serviced cosmetically original car ready for showing and driving enjoyment by next spring or prior. I want to preserve this car in its original state as much as possible. I will not deviate from factory specification and will remain with factory re-production parts as needed. I value history as a whole; I view this car as a rare original specimen that is not often seen these days. I am an enthusiast, although still learning. I may ask plenty of questions, please bear with me! Such a great website, I look forward to becoming more involved with the club as soon as the pandemic subsides for all of us. Pictures shown in both posts are of the car I purchased. Picture with previous owner (wearing cowboy hat) shown as is the car in his garage prior to my purchase, I am the guy on the right with the turquoise button shirt! Picture of the car on trailer with me and another fellow in grey shirt: I couldn't of done this without my friend's help and his truck/trailer. He collect's 1950's Chrysler products. Jon Ketron This message was edited by Ketronj281989 on 7-31-20 @ 4:56 AM
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Ketronj281989 | -- 07-31-2020 @ 5:16 AM |
For those that are interested I have uploaded several YouTube videos. Click the links below for a detailed close look at exterior and interior of car. I included an engine start on "Video of interior of car". I am still relatively new to the early Ford V8, there may be several items within the videos I am incorrect in stating. Still learning and grasping regarding early Ford's as well as those specifics of the 1936 year model 68 car. Please correct me where I am wrong. Video of exterior of car: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2r3butdXZY Video of interior of car: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pNBAVuo4eJs Jon This message was edited by Ketronj281989 on 7-31-20 @ 5:20 AM
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trjford8 | -- 07-31-2020 @ 6:33 AM |
Jon, welcome to the Early Ford V-8 Club. Lots of good information here for you when you have questions.
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TomO | -- 07-31-2020 @ 6:53 AM |
Welcome to the Club and the Forum. Ypou have a very nice survivor. The Club has a good book on the 35-36 Ford. It is meant to be a restoration guide, but it will help you in determining what is correct on your car. If your car has not been filled with fresh fuel in the past year, I would drain the tank and fill it with fresh fuel. I would also add a fuel stabilizer in proportion to the amount of fuel that you add to the tank. I would also drive the car each year before storage to get most of the fuel out of the tank and then fill it with fresh fuel and stabilizer. This is probably the best place to get answers to any questions that you may have, so keep in touch. Tom
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kubes40 | -- 07-31-2020 @ 7:54 AM |
Welcome young man! Neat '36... good for you! Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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therunwaybehind | -- 07-31-2020 @ 9:58 AM |
If you don't overwhelm me I am interested in your work with 1930's radios. My father was a HAM radio guy after being a civilian MORSE code instructor in early WW-II and then joining the Navy and working on radar at the MIT Radiation Laboratory after training at Princeton. I really didn't like the noise and heterodynes and twilight short wave sounds on 2 meter and 10 meter as the ionosphere shifted through the years and he moved to a mobile rig in his 1949/1953/1957/1959/1962 car powered by a rewired dynamotor and conditioning hardware. At some point he did buy a Motorola dash insert car AM radio. I built a crystal radi0 kit with him and wound the coil from a cardboard form and a reel of fine copper wire. Later in 1962 I took a course in Electronics at the university of Michigan that used a 300 volt breadboard (B+) and a Tektronix dual trace oscilloscope. My introduction to graphics was Lisajous figures. We also used a Vacuum Tube Voltmeter (VTVM) about which a friend of my father's Reese Samuels wrote a book. https://www.amazon.com/Rhys-Samuel/dp/B000GWGIWG/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_2?dchild=1&keywords=vacuum+tube+voltmeter+%28vtvm%29+by+reese+samuels&qid=1596217546&s=books&sr=1-2-fkmr2 Might seem I would be a good match but I moved on to transistors and 12 volt audio circuits and away from Class A amplifiers. My Ford radio was a 1948 Philco that my father disconnected the cage of signal seeking choke slugs from. He also opened up the vibrator metal cover and used a point file to polish the vibrator points. I know how to test tubes in a drug store tube tester. I can solder but my best effort was a Radio Shack Archer kit short wave using transistors and solid state diodes where I would install the parts by a North window and then solder them in at night in the basement to artificial light. When I was done it did not work and my father found one of the transistors reverse in its three wire socket. My uncle had bought it but could not even start it. When I was a small boy my father would give me the military surplus chassis he had stripped the capacitors and resistors out of to pull the tubes. Too bad the idea of digital eliminating the need to bias tubes and carefully match impedances led to connnection protocols like RS-232-C and IEEE-488. Kirchoff's law led to the digital logic probe. This message was edited by therunwaybehind on 7-31-20 @ 10:47 AM
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kirkstad | -- 07-31-2020 @ 10:33 AM |
I enjoyed watching the videos Jon, welcome to the Club and congratulations on finding such a beautiful 36. Frank
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JayChicago | -- 07-31-2020 @ 2:25 PM |
Let me add my "Welcome!" Its really nice to see a young guy join the club, a young guy who appreciates these cars, history, and originality. And your knowledge of electronics will be useful, as these old cars do have their electrical gremlins. You have made a great find in that car. It should give you several years of enjoyment as you work thru the various minor issues. Take your time and enjoy the journey.
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Ketronj281989 | -- 08-01-2020 @ 4:22 AM |
trjford8, Thank you for the welcome, I am looking forward to becoming more involved here on the forum as well within the club. Jon
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Ketronj281989 | -- 08-01-2020 @ 4:29 AM |
Tom, Thank you for the welcome and thank you for the advise on the gasoline issue. I have a local gas station which supplies a separate standalone pump offering non ethanol 87 octane 100% pure gas. I immediately switched to this type of fuel upon receipt of the car to prevent the many possible issues ethanol could potentially create. I will look into a stabilizer to add during the winter months. Perhaps Stabil would be a good solution? Thanks for your comments and suggestions, Jon
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Ketronj281989 | -- 08-01-2020 @ 4:32 AM |
Mike, Thank you for the welcome. I am excited to be a new member of this club. I had known about it for several years, just hadn't found the right car until now! I had seen your post on the "Ford Barn". Thank you for that! I figured that site would also be a good resource regarding getting to know even more enthusiast. Jon
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cliftford | -- 08-01-2020 @ 5:12 AM |
Congratuations on your owning a '36. I agree that the '36 is the best looking model of the late 30s much better looking that the '35 or the '37.
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Ketronj281989 | -- 08-01-2020 @ 5:13 AM |
therunwaybehind, My main expertise in the vintage radio world are circuits designed before WWII. While I have worked on Television circuits from the late 40's to early 50's as well as radio's from that time period, my main passion is the 1930's tube technology. I service all customer sets with a full array of calibrated laboratory grade Hewlett Packard test equipment. Picture of my bench attached. I have serviced the simplest tuned radio frequency circuits of the 1920's to the largest Super heterodynes of the 1930's employing multiple tube chassis with as many as 27 radio tubes in a single radio set. Such specialized service of the 1930's circuits is becoming quite a rare offering to see these days. I have had several old time mentor's whom were kind enough to teach me the many avenues of tube radio technology. Thank you for sharing your fathers as well as your electronic experiences, they were an interesting read. Jon
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Ketronj281989 | -- 08-01-2020 @ 5:15 AM |
Frank, Thank you for the welcome and thanks for the comments regarding the videos. Many more to come as I dig deeper into this car. I have also posted several electrical videos regarding the car, which I will be updating soon. Jon
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Ketronj281989 | -- 08-01-2020 @ 5:17 AM |
JayChicago, Thank you for the kind words. I share a great passion for preserving these old cars just as you all do as well. This will indeed be a fun journey and a great learning experience. Jon
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Ketronj281989 | -- 08-01-2020 @ 5:27 AM |
cliftford, Thank you. I too find the styling of the 36 quite attractive. 1934 styling included, I find the 35 and 36 year body styles quite intriguing. I am a mechanical person, so the mechanical advancements that arrived with the 1936 model year make it my preferred choice in pre-war Ford's. The transition from Babbitt to insert bearings, a full array of helical gears in the transmission (first for this year), and many more mechanical improvements led me to favor the 1936 year, very satisfied with my recent purchase. I have been diving deep into the club's books recently purchased and have since purchased a large array of original and reproduction literature regarding the 1936 model year 68 car. I look forward to learning more. These books are a great read! Jon
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Ketronj281989 | -- 08-01-2020 @ 5:38 AM |
I wanted to document several engine and interior pictures of the car as found upon purchase. The engine bay received some sort of radiator overflow tank decades ago. Several wires have been updated, including the wire connecting to the cut out on the generator. The radiator will need closer inspection an perhaps a replacement or re-core. The engine block as well as the transmission still retain their original factory off the assembly line paint. The interior to my knowledge is 100% stock as purchased new in 1936 from the dealership. This is an OH car. It has resided in OH it's entire life. I am from OH, although currently living in Lexington KY for work. This is the first time the car has been out of state since 1936! Might I add the fuel pump appears to be a later post war example with sediment bowl. Please correct me if I am wrong on this. Thanks Jon This message was edited by Ketronj281989 on 8-1-20 @ 5:40 AM
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kubes40 | -- 08-01-2020 @ 6:57 AM |
Good morning Jon, Did you order the 35 - 36 book yet? ![]() The fuel pump is 1947+ as you'd figured it to be. The cylinder heads should be aluminum and if I am seeing properly, it appears the car is sporting a later ('37 - '41) distributor and coil. What carb is on there? Should be a 97. If your aim is to bring this back to its authentic self, I am confident you'll find great sources of aid on this site for advice and parts. Enjoy! Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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TomO | -- 08-01-2020 @ 7:52 AM |
Jon, Stabil Storage and Stabil 360 are good at keeping the fuel fresh for about 1 year. After that it is like throwing the dice as to the condition of the fuel. The hose from the fuel pump should go as soon as possible. the one from the tank line to the fuel pump should also be replaced. They are sources of future problems. I am against any rubber hose on the pressure side of the fuel pump in the engine compartment. If it splits, you have a nice source of fuel for a fire. The Club has a Rouge Class that honors original cars. Yours may be eligible for that category, but you will have to be careful with any changes that you make. Read the Club's book so that you know what is correct and incorrect on your car. You may also be interested in the jump drive with back issues of the V-8 Times. There are many interesting articles in there and the Advisers have given a lot of guidance in their section. Read the guidelines for Judging the classes here: https://www.earlyfordv8.org/images/userImages/2016%20EFV8C%20JUDGING%20RULES.pdf Join a Regional Group near where you live and plan to drive the car. Tom
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Ketronj281989 | -- 08-01-2020 @ 3:53 PM |
Hi Mike, I have the 35-36 club book in hand and have review all chapters up to the interior/upholstery. So far, great stuff. I look forward to reading more. I have not arrived most of the mechanical parts section as of yet. Thank you for recommending this book. It has proved to be an eye opener source of information, what a great book. Thank you for verification on the fuel pump. When the car was removed from storage several years ago, the pump may had been replaced and old one discarded. If not, the current pump may have been on the car since sometime prior to it's "into storage date". The trunk is full of spare parts. I need to look to see if the original is still with the car. I too have been scratching my head on the cylinder heads. I had read those 1936 year heads were still manufactured as aluminum. Ford did offer cast replacements due to the issues with aluminum heads. If these heads were replaced, it was at least over 50+ years ago I would think as the patina of everything matches up just right. Perhaps they could have been replaced shortly after purchased back in 1936 by a dealership or at first dealership servicing? Could cast heads be a special order item in 1936? This indeed will need to be looked over further as I move thru the servicing of the car. To my recollection, the carb has a stamped "97" with circle around it. A Ford script stamped logo also resides on the body of the carburetor. It appears to be a Stromberg carb as what would have been factory. I can post close-up pictures if interested. You bring up an interesting comment regarding the distributor and coil. The previous owner stated the distributor and coil burned up upon first start-up out of 30+ year storage. It was stated the "mechanic" replaced the distributor and coil with a factory Ford replacement after the original burnt. I really appreciate you pointing this out. I will need to change these two items back to the stock 1936 year manufactured parts. I don't know enough about the distributors yet to differentiate, more reading to come! It is indeed my aim to bring this machine back to it's authentic self, I think we are at least already half way there thanks to the current state and condition of the car! I eventually want to go thru every detail to make this car as re-1936 authentic as possible. At the same time though, those previously replaced parts add to the car's overall history. Kind of torn on this idea as to what to do. Thanks, Jon
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Ketronj281989 | -- 08-01-2020 @ 4:08 PM |
Tom, Thanks for the further info regarding gasoline storage. Thank you for your recommendation on fuel hoses. I need to look at a 1936 stock set up to determine how to proceed, I agree they need to be changed. Would a brass line come off the firewall area where the main tank line runs to? I have seen restored cars with a brass line between carb and pump, is this the same set up for 1936? What type of line should be between the main tank line to input of fuel pump? I would think this line would need to be flexible as the engine labors at different R.P.M's creating vibration and torque movement. I read the entire 2016 guideline packet, paying special attention to the Rouge class as you mentioned. This class will be one to look into once the car is back on the road and worthy of daily operation. The goal would be to eventually show the car at club events in this class. Jon
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js5249js | -- 08-02-2020 @ 1:31 PM |
Hello, Jon. My name is Joe Sauer. I own a ‘36 Ford Coupe and am looking to have the radio restored. I’m not sure where you’re located, but was wondering if you would be interested in looking at it? If so, would you e-mail me directly @ js5249js@gmail.com and we can discuss the specifics. Thanks and welcome to the club!
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Ketronj281989 | -- 08-02-2020 @ 3:56 PM |
Hi Joe, Thanks for your reply and welcome. I just sent you an email regarding your inquiry. Jon
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TomO | -- 08-03-2020 @ 7:23 AM |
Jon, The correct fuel line from the fuel pump to the carburetor is a steel line that is copper coated. Third Gen Auto may still have the correct line, but most other vendors have switched to another line that rusts very quickly. The line from the tank line to the fuel pump is a flex line and Third Gen has those. https://thirdgenauto.com/product/1935-38-ford-copper-plated-steel-pre-bent-fuel-line-carb-to-fuel-pump/ I believe that the carburetor on your car is a Ford model 94. The Stromberg 97 was never made by Ford according to my sources, but Ford did make its own version of the Holley 94. The Rouge Class cars are not point judged, but are inspected for ORIGINAL paint, upholstery, trim, wiring and mechanical components. Tom
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Ketronj281989 | -- 08-04-2020 @ 7:26 AM |
Tom, Thanks for the information. I went ahead and ordered both lines from Third Gen Auto just now. I am glad you mentioned the carb, I was incorrect regarding the model. No Stromberg present. The carb currently on the car is a Ford stamped 59 with a circle around the 59, pictures attached. I don't know much about the model 59. Do you know when this carb was used by Ford? Thanks for the Rouge Class information. I am going to do my very best to leave the car as original as possible as I continue to service it. Jon This message was edited by Ketronj281989 on 8-4-20 @ 7:32 AM
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TomO | -- 08-04-2020 @ 8:59 AM |
Model 59 was used from 46-48. IMHO it is a better carb than a Stromberg for a driver. You will need the Stromberg for the Concourse. I don't know a good source for the Stromberg, but someone else will give you that information. Tom
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therunwaybehind | -- 08-04-2020 @ 9:37 AM |
The Ford V-8 Cub jump drive of the back issues of Ford Times has several writeups on the 1936 radio and it's antenna, apparently from Ford Motor.
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Ketronj281989 | -- 08-06-2020 @ 4:58 AM |
Thanks for the info Tom. I now take back what I said regarding the car being 100 percent original. This is not the case, although the car is a great survivor with a factory interior thus far. More discoveries to follow soon. I may keep all as is in terms of mechanical parts in the engine bay or may start my hunt for proper year mechanical parts, as of now this includes the distributor and Stromberg carb. It seems the engine bay will need some work to take back to 1936 factory specifications. Will be a fun challenge! Appreciate your help. Jon
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Ketronj281989 | -- 08-06-2020 @ 5:00 AM |
therunwaybehind, Thank you for the suggestion. I will be sure to pursue this item. I am eager to research and learn more regarding the 1936 year car. Jon This message was edited by Ketronj281989 on 8-6-20 @ 5:00 AM
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