| Parkopup1218 | -- 07-21-2020 @ 2:44 PM |
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Hello All Here is my opportunity. I have a 1942 Ford Coupe with a 1946 59ab motor. The motor recently has gone through carb rebuild, new wires and plugs, dist rebuild, new wire harness from the firewall to the radiator forward. This is a 6 v pos ground car. The starter was bench tested and all ok. The battery is new and when testing charging, static is around 6.7 and charging around 6.9 or so. The car runs great. MY QUESTION: When cold, the car starts right up. After it warms up (around 20-30 minutes driving) and shut off, it is hard to start. When I place the batt charger on, it starts off register with 6.4 so not dead by any means. After several hours on the charger and cooling down, the car starts right up. Thoughts? Thanks for your input!!!!
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| carcrazy | -- 07-21-2020 @ 4:08 PM |
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Are you using the stock ignition system? The coil may be getting weak and unable to provide adequate spark once it warms up.
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| MG | -- 07-21-2020 @ 4:14 PM |
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Check, clean and tighten your battery connections and all grounds....
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| ford38v8 | -- 07-21-2020 @ 5:31 PM |
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This is a common issue, and although more prevalent in recent years due to changes in fuel formulation, it's not new by any means. What's happening is heat soak after shutdown, causing the fuel in the carburetor to percolate. When this happens, you'll either have no fuel to start, or too much, as the engine can be flooded from the overflowing fuel bowl. A quick and easy confirmation is to raise the hood immediately upon stopping to allow excess heat to escape the engine compartment. I'm not suggesting this as a cure, only to narrow the field in your search for answers. Alan
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| Parkopup1218 | -- 07-21-2020 @ 6:00 PM |
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Yes I am I using stock parts. I will check the coil...thanks
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| Parkopup1218 | -- 07-21-2020 @ 6:01 PM |
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I will try the hood suggestion. Thanks
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| 50CaPU | -- 07-22-2020 @ 5:02 AM |
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A handheld infrared thermometer will show your actual temperatures around the fuel bowl, carb, etc. Tim Downtown, Ca
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| TomO | -- 07-22-2020 @ 7:09 AM |
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You checked the battery when you were having starting problems. I would like to know if your starter turns over the engine just as fast ho and cold or does it crank slowly when hot? I would also like to know who rebuilt your carburetor. To check for the condition that Alan spoke of, shortly after you stop the engine, remove the air cleaner and look down the throat of the carburetor, if you see fuel dribbling down into the carburetor, wait until the engine cools and remove the top of the carburetor and adjust the float so that the fuel level is 1/8" lower than its current level. This should not affect performance. Tom
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| Parkopup1218 | -- 07-22-2020 @ 12:26 PM |
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Hi Tom The starter is slower when warm. The carb was rebuilt by a local mechanic who specialises in old 40's and 50's
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| alanwoodieman | -- 07-22-2020 @ 2:35 PM |
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slower when warm--check out battery cable, make sure they can handle the start load generated by a hot engine. when you try to strat hot see if the cable to starter gets really hot--if so you need a bigger cable
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 07-22-2020 @ 4:54 PM |
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was wondering if you have headers on the engine ? ON RS of engine the starter is very close to the exhaust and might be causing the starter to have problems., I just went though this on my 37, ended up wrapping the exhaust headers also I have in the past to check the coil if was causing problems with no or less spark, for HARD STARTING, I put a ICE PACK on the coil, wait 5 minutes and start the car, IT WORKS most of the time, good way of checking for ignition coil failure., hope this helps 1937Ragtopman This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 7-23-20 @ 6:41 AM
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| TomO | -- 07-23-2020 @ 9:41 AM |
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It sounds like you may have 12 volt cables on your battery or you may have a bad ground. The 6 volt cables are at least 1/2" in diameter. You need to know how to use a voltmeter to check out the ground circuit. Ground circuit meter hook up and test: Connect the Black lead of the meter to the NEG post of the battery Connect the red lead of the meter to the case of the starter or one of its mounting bolts Operate the starter while observing the meter. The reading should be 0.1 volt or less. Higher readings can be cause by paint on the mounting surfaces of the starter, corroded ground strap or undersized (12 Volt) ground strap. Tom
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| supereal | -- 08-04-2020 @ 12:51 PM |
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If, the starter gets hot from exposure to the exhaust manifold, it will lose power due to high resistance in the windings. Worn bushings will allow the armature to drag from contact with the pole shoes, as well. I use a diode booster on my'47 and other cars. If interested I will post the instructions again. Modern cars used to bypass ignition resistors to increase ignition power to aid starting by compensating for voltage drop.
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| cliftford | -- 08-04-2020 @ 4:38 PM |
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The diode bypass that superreal mentions is the only way to go. run a wire from the starter side of the solenoid through a diode to the batt side of the coil. Sure saves wear and tear on the starter. I use one that is intended to replace the innards on an early ford generator cutout.
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| MG | -- 08-04-2020 @ 6:33 PM |
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supereal's quick start for old Fords Attached below >
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| supereal | -- 08-06-2020 @ 8:08 AM |
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Thanks MG for posting my "quickstart" page. One thing to remember is that the circuit bypasses the ignition switch when activated, so disconnect one end of the circuit if you are planning to "bump" the engine during any under hood work. The engine will start and run as long as the start button is pushed. I posted the page years ago, and should have added this precaution at the time.
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| Parkopup1218 | -- 08-06-2020 @ 4:19 PM |
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Thanks Superreal and others. I will give your suggestion a whirl. My new friend Tom O gave me some great advice. Stay tuned.
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