| fenbach | -- 06-29-2020 @ 7:48 PM |
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in a distributor, that is. my '36 engine would skip a beat especially at high RPM. i went over the distributor and swapped out just about everything else but the engine without ever seeing a noticeable improvement. until i replaced the distributor. everything was at spec in the first distributor and the points were new, but something must be arcing or shorting in there. how can i test for that on the bench? before replacing the rotor, let's say, and spending an afternoon putting the distributor back on the engine.
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| carcrazy | -- 06-29-2020 @ 8:42 PM |
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What points are you using? You may be experiencing point bounce due to insufficient spring pressure on the points which allows them to bounce at higher RPM's.
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| 40 Coupe | -- 06-30-2020 @ 4:39 AM |
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Also look for excessive gap between the rotor and cap terminals.
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| ken ct. | -- 06-30-2020 @ 5:00 AM |
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Try an install a length of shrink tubeing over the dist shaft under the rotor,about a 3-3 1/2 " piece will do it. Works for "Bubber" and me. ken ct
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| fenbach | -- 06-30-2020 @ 8:54 AM |
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Coincidentally, I bought the points from ken ct. with “US-made” written on the invoice. the spring pressure feels the same as on other points. I’d still like to know of a way to test for arcing or floating points without having to reinstall the distributor on the car. Using a screwdriver, I get a huge spark at the plugs at idle speed but an occasional hiccup at all RPM.
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| alanwoodieman | -- 06-30-2020 @ 10:06 AM |
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second the shrink tube, I even use two layers of shrink tube. simple to try and doesn't cost much money and best of all it WORKS
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| fenbach | -- 07-02-2020 @ 7:58 PM |
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i rigged up a spark generator using a radio vibr@tor [and a coil] and stuck a screwdriver thru the rotor. with no sparkplug in the circuit, i got a huge spark off the end of the screwdriver. with a sparkplug in the circuit, i still got a bit of a spark and a faint but noticeable buzz inside the rotor. i then put a piece of shrink tubing over the screwdriver. and have to report that it didn't reduce the leakage enough for me to see or hear a difference. no surprise, really, to me anyway. after all, the spark already made it thru half an inch of bakelite. glad it worked for you fellows, tho. BTW, i discovered that i had wrapped the original rotor shaft with electrical tape. so what was wrong?? i might have been a victim of my own good intentions. i had oiled the distributor, and the rotor had a thin film of oil on it. maybe that was conducting?? regardless, the engine runs fine with the replacement distributor. which has no tape nor tubing on the rotor shaft. go figure.
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| supereal | -- 07-23-2020 @ 12:00 PM |
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Locate a shop with a distributor machine. At our shop we use our Sun machine to test these units at all speeds. It shows point bounce and worn bushings as the strobe wheel turns. There are a few of us old timers that still have machine. If you post your location, it is liked someone will point you to them.
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