| forJJ | -- 06-13-2020 @ 6:32 PM |
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I am doing preventative maintenance on my 36, and need a little help. The car is a survivor, so I know the brakes haven't been touched in 40+ years. What should I be checking/replacing while I have the drums off? I'm looking for set of seals, can I get them at local auto parts, or will I have to order online? One of the rear wheels has grease/oil in the shield, does that mean I need to replace another seal? If so, what do I need for that? Any help would be greatly appreciated Jason
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| 40 Coupe | -- 06-14-2020 @ 4:24 AM |
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Still the mechanical brakes or has it been switched over to hydraulic???
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| TomO | -- 06-14-2020 @ 9:49 AM |
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You should repack the wheel bearings and replace the seals. Use a heavy duty drum brake bearing grease like Sta-Lube SL3131 Heavy Duty Drum Brake Wheel Bearing Grease. You will need new seals,you may be able to get them locally. Be sure to check the underside of your rear axle housings for wear. Excessive wear will cause the axle to flex and it may break. There are replacement sleeves to repair the housings. Tom
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| forJJ | -- 06-14-2020 @ 11:39 AM |
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Mechanical brakes. All original. From what I can tell the car had been sitting since since 50s
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| forJJ | -- 06-14-2020 @ 11:45 AM |
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Is there a seal I need to check/replace at the rear housing?
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| Steve Kennedy | -- 06-14-2020 @ 2:05 PM |
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Please post pictures, always fun to see a true survivor.
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| 40 Coupe | -- 06-14-2020 @ 4:24 PM |
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There is a front wheel hub seal, also a rear has a hub seal and a axle shaft seal. It appears you do not have the rear drums off. It takes a special puller to remove them without damage. Mac VanPelt may rent you the proper tool for the rear drums. Mac also has all the seals you need.
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| ford38v8 | -- 06-14-2020 @ 5:12 PM |
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As TomO has pointed out, the bottom side of the axle housings bearing surface is prone to wear. Fortunately, the housings may be flipped on your model, to place bearing surfaces on top of the opposite side. This job is a bit laborious, but can be done by any backyard mechanic. Also, as 40coupe advised, do not attempt removal of the rear drums without the correct hub puller: KR Wilson; Vintage Precision; or Winfield Tool Works. Alan
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| forJJ | -- 06-14-2020 @ 6:11 PM |
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I have the drums off front and rear. I have gotten the drums cleaned up in the parts washer, and ordered new shoe linings. That's why I was asking about seals and what else I should be doing. I've had a couple people reach out to me offering help, that's what is do great about this forum. I'll try to post a couple pics, I couldn't get them to upload....
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| forJJ | -- 06-14-2020 @ 6:31 PM |
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In my shop this winter
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| JayChicago | -- 06-15-2020 @ 5:33 AM |
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Just a curiosity question: "As TomO has pointed out, the bottom side of the axle housings bearing surface is prone to wear." Question is: why the underside? I would think it would wear more on the top side. The weight of the car would be bearing down on the top side, and road impacts would push up on the top side.
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| ford38v8 | -- 06-15-2020 @ 6:37 AM |
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The weight of the car is supported by the axle bearing between the hub and the axle housing. The hub is constantly turning, distributing even wear on it's bearing surface, while the housing is stationary, all the wear on the bottom side. Alan
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| therunwaybehind | -- 06-15-2020 @ 9:18 AM |
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The linings can be replaced on the shoes by removing the rivets and then riveting new lining material onto the shoes. I only say this because later model cars used bonded linings. In 1967 no more asbestos linings were used so that is an issue for earlier linings and the dust is hazardous. Now then, do the drums have striations or worse, deep grooves where the rivets made contact when run beyond life? They can be saved by lathing the drums as a machine shop procedure at one time at any autoparts. That brings up another need though. The new linings then must be rearcced to match their radius to the new drum surface radius. otherwise only a part of the linings will make contact and supply friction. The result is -NO BRAKES!! Patience, care and your 3/4 floating rear axles will go on for decades and your brakes will be strong and effective.
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| wmsteed | -- 06-19-2020 @ 10:11 AM |
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I don't recall seeing any mention made about the inner seal on the rear axles. There use to be a very good aftermarket axle seal that eliminated the need to disassemble the rear end to replace the axle seal. The seal slipped onto the exterior of the axle and then into the axle housing. I have the exterior seals in the differential, which is a '47-48 Columbia, under '36. Bill 36 5 win delx cpe
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