| silverchief | -- 06-05-2020 @ 9:41 AM |
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Was reading an article in an automotive publication yesterday that states: "Every time you start a vehicle with a 6 volt system, you have to drive 10 miles at highway speed to replenish the amount of energy drawn from the battery for just the one start of the car." Probably true. That being the case, how did Ford prevent it's dealers from being swamped by angry new car owners who drove only 2 or 3 city miles every day to work or to their office, and thus after four or five days regularly found themselves with a dead battery. I would appreciate your thoughts.
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| kubes40 | -- 06-05-2020 @ 9:59 AM |
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My thoughts? Don't believe everything you read. This is patently false: "Every time you start a vehicle with a 6 volt system, you have to drive 10 miles at highway speed to replenish the amount of energy drawn from the battery for just the one start of the car." Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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| ford38v8 | -- 06-05-2020 @ 1:38 PM |
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Call and raise: Don't believe everything you think. Alan
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| kubes40 | -- 06-05-2020 @ 2:35 PM |
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So Alan, you believe every time you start your car you have to run it 10 miles at freeway speed to recharge the battery? I must really not know what I'm doing. I rarely take any of my cars out but when I do, it's typically very short runs. I have NEVER had a charging issue nor a dead battery. Of course I've never experienced vapor lock either and I buy only the 10% ethanol stuff that all around here. Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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| kirkstad | -- 06-05-2020 @ 3:58 PM |
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I agree with Mike.I rarely drive more than a few miles in my 36 to cruise nights etc. and never had a problem. I did have to replace my battery recently because it was almost 6 years old. Back in the 60's my dad drove a 55 ford to work only a few miles away and I don't recall him ever having a problem. Frank
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| sarahcecelia | -- 06-06-2020 @ 5:07 AM |
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I have "Battery Tenders" on all 4 of my classic cars. They constantly moniter the batteries and keep them fully charged. You can buy them from the plant in Deland, Florida. Others sell them , but at a higher price than the plant.I've had other brands, but they went bad a lot of times. The "Battery Tender" Is the "Mercedes Benz" of them all!! They run about $32. I personally, SWEAR BY THEM!!! Regards, Steve Lee This message was edited by sarahcecelia on 6-8-20 @ 7:18 AM
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| silverchief | -- 06-06-2020 @ 8:00 AM |
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Thanks for all your input guys. I drive my 46 maybe coupe of times a week for probably 2 miles with it's original 6 volt setup. Have been constantly plagued with dead battery problems, both Optima and lead acid. Other members have suggested my short drives deplete the batteries charge. All wiring is new, generator is obviously working correctly, had the starter rebuilt, and new batteries always help but I remain apprehensive about leaving home. Was considering an alternator, but am a strong believer in there being no reason why Henry's original equipment shouldn't work fine. Plus, reversing the hookup on the ammeter is required, and that entails either working under the dash or removing the meter, and either one is a real hassle.
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| kubes40 | -- 06-06-2020 @ 8:20 AM |
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Silverchief, I'm guessing there remains an issue with your electrical system. Being that you'd tried both Optima and acid core batteries with the same results makes me go to (first) a slow drain. They can be a bear to track down but really, if you are 100% certain your charging system is operating properly, I can think of no other reason for your dilemma. Perhaps TomO can weigh in here??? That man knows his way around the things that make sparkies! While a battery tender does help keep a batterie's life extended, it is not (should not be) necessary for a car that is being used as often as yours is. I have tenders on my cars ONLY when in long term storage. Mike "Kube" Kubarth This message was edited by kubes40 on 6-6-20 @ 8:22 AM
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| therunwaybehind | -- 06-06-2020 @ 9:43 AM |
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Do you have an electric clock that winds itself with a solenoid? My 1948 had one. This is a likely source of a slow drain. My other advice on "battery tenders" is they won't charge the battery once it gets down a ways. Smart has it's limits is what they seem to say.
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| silverchief | -- 06-07-2020 @ 11:34 AM |
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Interesting you guys should mention the clock. Had it rebuilt couple of years ago. Ran great. Later, when searching for the source of what I also considered had to be a drain, the clock reared it's ugly head. Removed the fuse, and the presto chang0- no drain. Haven't used it since then. As stated in previous thread I finally gave up on Optima. Me and they just could not get on the same page. I am satisfied with the Duracell lead acid I am currently running. Those times I have found it depleted were obviously not it's fault, and it will crank a long time trying to remedy the situation. Plus, after charging and sitting disconnected about 10 days, it will still show a little over 6 volts. Latest episode involved being towed home, (grrr) with quick check showing no fuel at carb from full time electric pump. Replaced fuse and toggle switch, finally going direct from battery to pump - nothing. Presently waiting for a new one in the mail. Interesting argument about how one start not followed by 10 miles of highway speed driving will drain the battery. Hard for me to believe Henry would let a car leave his factory with that quirk. Thanks again for the input.
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| CharlieStephens | -- 06-07-2020 @ 1:01 PM |
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Are your brake lights staying on? Remove the battery cable with everything off and see if you get a spark. Check for current with a meter between the cable and the battery when you remove the cable. Charlie Stephens
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 06-08-2020 @ 6:03 AM |
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hi silverechief battery always dead,,,, here a simple way to check for battery draw, nothing fancy, but will do the job, you can easily build a simple tester with a 6 volt bulb, 2 wires 16 gauge and 2 alligator clips, and a soldering gun,, the brighter the bulb lights the heavier the draw, you keep disconnecting things , like starter, generator,stop light switch, regulator dome light etc, Till the LIGHT GOES out, when it goes out you found your problem, hope this may solve your problem 1937Ragtopman Lets hear how you made out,
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| juergen | -- 06-08-2020 @ 6:27 AM |
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I would also check your voltage regulator and generator as it should keep up. Here is an easy analysis. Your starter could drain up to 600 amps at start up (worst case). Mine starts in 10 seconds so you have drained 600 x 10 or 6000 amp seconds (100 amp minutes). Lets say you drive 2.5 miles averaging 15 miles per hour in traffic. It takes you 10 minutes. So if the ammeter says you are averaging 10 amps (My usual start deflection) then you have replenished the 100 amp minutes you needed for starting. Remember that the ammeter just registers the flow to and from the battery (except to the starter). For a 300 amp start up drain, the time would be half. Driving faster allows the generator to increase the output above 10 amps.
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| sarahcecelia | -- 06-08-2020 @ 7:41 AM |
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The starter takes about 230 amps!!when it cranks your motor; and 2 miles will ABSOLUTELY not recharge a battery back to it's capacity!! (6 volts +, and 12 volts +) You need to drive about 10 miles to bring that battery back to full charge!! Regards, Steve Lee
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| juergen | -- 06-08-2020 @ 4:16 PM |
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Well math does not lie and myths are all around.. And working in a garage in the 50s we saw a lot of 400 draw at start up. An economo 6 volt tractor battery has a cranking amp capability of over 500 amps with a CCA above 400 for a reason. My 37 will put out over 10 amps after a start up above 1000 rpm so using your 230 amps will recharge his starting drain in less than 2 miles.
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| 40cpe | -- 06-08-2020 @ 6:24 PM |
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I'm a little mathematically AND electrically challenged. In the morning it might take 10 seconds of cranking and later on it might start on the first turn. How can we calculate how long it will take to recharge if we know starter and ignition amps? Can you give the formula?
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| sarahcecelia | -- 06-09-2020 @ 4:58 AM |
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My thoughts: It takes hours to charge a dead battery with a battery charger, and people think that you can drive 2 miles and fully recharge it after the starter took 230-235 amps to crank it?? Do that every time you take it out- and you'll end up with a dead battery, or low battery! Regards, Steve Lee
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| sarahcecelia | -- 06-09-2020 @ 5:06 AM |
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All Ford clocks rewound that way, about every 2+ minutes.It used electricity for about ONE NANO second; hardly enough to drain the battery! The clock acually ran the rest of the time, by a spring!I know, I have taken apart quite a few that didn't work. I cleaned the points, cleaned the works, and oiled them; and THEY WORKED AGAIN!! Regards, Steve Lee
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| juergen | -- 06-09-2020 @ 5:50 AM |
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40 cpe, Sorry if I didn't get the math down to you. Your battery drain at start up is the number of amps multiplied by the crank time. So if it takes 230 amps and lasts for 10 seconds, you have used up 2300 amp seconds or 2300/3600 = .64 amp hours of your 100 amp hour battery. Now with the engine running at speed, look at your ammeter. After start up it will usually be above the 10 amp mark, but lets use 10 amps as an average. So to replenish 2300 amp seconds at 10 amps charging, will take 230 seconds, or about 4 minutes. If you have a dead battery (rated somewhere near 100 amp hours) and use a battery charger at a nominal rate of 5 amps, then the recharge time is 100/5 or 20 hours. Trickle chargers would take twice as long. This message was edited by juergen on 6-9-20 @ 6:05 AM
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 06-09-2020 @ 8:27 AM |
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HI SLIVER CHIEF did you ever disconnect the battery, for a few days and see if it holds a charge,? if you leave your battery connected and it has a DRAIN !!!, you might be set up for a car fire, ? sooner or later, it is most important to find the DRAIN do some tests, my 2 cents, 1937Ragtopman
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| therunwaybehind | -- 06-09-2020 @ 8:43 AM |
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The point about the clock is not about when the car is being driven but when it is parked for a long time.
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