| JerryG | -- 05-12-2020 @ 9:41 PM |
|
Quick question. What can I do to identify a 21 stud engine I have? I used the club 1935 -1936 book to help. The engine has the little triangle air vent at the front of the right side of the pan, the flat topped coil, a aluminum intake that looks like the later model, no LB stamp that I can find...but it has cast iron heads with raised numbers that are very hard to read. The thing appears complete but has been exposed to the elements for a long time. I don't want to have to tear it down just to figure out what it is. It is not frozen. I want to do a compression test then put a carb on it and test the electrical and see if it will run. It is not in a car. Any idea on the heads? Can it be a truck engine? What would indicate that? Thank you.
|
|
| zeke3 | -- 05-13-2020 @ 12:03 PM |
|
You didn't mention the location of the water pumps. 1937 21 stud engine had the water pumps in the block, like the later flathead engines. There are also block-off plates to cover the openings on the engine block when used in earlier model vehicles with the cylinder head mounted water pumps. If there is no provision in the block for water pumps, then it must be an earlier engine. You can remove the oil pan to measure the spacing between the main bearing studs/capscrews to tell whether it is an LB or babbitt main bearings. The spacing was 3.00" for babbitt bearing engines and 3.25" for insert bearing engines.
|
|
| juergen | -- 05-13-2020 @ 1:28 PM |
|
Jerry, you have to remember this thing is 85 years old and most likely not original. The nice thing about Henry the first is that a lot of years you could upgrade your old stuff with better later stuff (like ignitions, intakes, heads, flywheels, pans, oil pumps). Unlike under Henry the second where you could have 4 351 engine types with no interchange. So good work on identifying the block types (also noting the reply above) and the pan types. If it was a passenger with aluminum heads, chances are these were replaced as the aluminum did not like alcohol antifreeze and head bolts had to be retorqued periodically as the aluminum shrunk under pressure of the head bolts. They were then often replaced by cast iron heads (and some of these heads had casting dates well beyond 1937). Same for the other add ons. So for the rest of your ensemble, you need to get the casting numbers, date codes or good description to get an idea of what you have. This message was edited by juergen on 5-13-20 @ 1:31 PM
|
|
| JerryG | -- 05-13-2020 @ 8:39 PM |
|
Thanks. No, it is in the 1935 -1936 family, not the 1937. I have the 33-34, 35-36, and 37 club books.
|
|
| JerryG | -- 05-13-2020 @ 8:50 PM |
|
Very good. That would explain the cast iron heads. I have enough later model parts to put on this engine to get it to run if it has compression, and I can proceed from there. My '34 Tudor Std has a 1940 engine in it with a frozen cylinder, that may not be able to be fixed (long story). At almost 80 myself, I don't have the dexterity now to do a lot of engine work, and I don't want to waste time on the 21 stud engine if it has no potential either. Thanks for the info Juergen!
|
|
| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=13826 |