| DJ | -- 04-22-2020 @ 4:00 PM |
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51 Ford Custom, V8 Flathead. I have a slow leak at the fitting connecting the fuel line to the carburetor. Tried tightening and still leaking. You guys would know for sure, but do not believe this is the original fuel line. What would be your recommendations to fix this? I wasn’t sure if there is a flex line that would work or if I should go with the original replacement?
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| ken ct. | -- 04-22-2020 @ 4:32 PM |
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It looks like the line fitting is bottomed out up against the carb body. File this face down a bit and the line fitting will go into it a hair more. Must end up with a small space between the fitting and carb body. OR try a new line with new fitting. ken ct 1-203-260-9780 if you want more info ?
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| LarryK | -- 04-23-2020 @ 4:08 AM |
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Check to make sure that the ferrule is present on the fuel line. An original or reproduction copper plated steel fuel line would be preferred. Larry
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| 51woodie | -- 04-23-2020 @ 4:44 AM |
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I had the same problem with my ‘46 connection at the carb. You have lots of line to play with, so remove the line, cut the ends of just behind the furels, debur and reinstall with new furels. The furels are available at auto supply or plumbing shops. What happens is the furels get over crimped after several re-uses. That is what worked for me.
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 04-23-2020 @ 4:53 AM |
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hi I would go to a steel line, copper is a NO NO, they crystallize over time and will break, brittle also check the treads in the carb, this was a big down fall ,in these carbs, they strip out easily, either make a new line or buy a new one,make sure it is steel. copper coated is what FORD used,in my 37 so everybody thought they were copper, and if they had a problem they replaced with line copper,which is a bad idea, If it ever breaks, you will never forget it, I do not know of any car or truck manufacturer using copper lines, brakes or fuel lines anywhere also maybe get a rebuilt carburetor for a spare, my 2 cents 37Ragtopman I always carry a fire extinguisher This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 4-23-20 @ 8:01 AM
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| ken ct. | -- 04-23-2020 @ 5:17 AM |
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Ive had copper lines on my 36 for over 30 yrs never had a crystilized one yet. There is not enough length in available lines to cut off 1 end to install new ferrel and ford nut on your old one. Ive rebuilt 100's of 94's and replaced 100's of copper lines with NO issues. OMO. Do what you must. Cheapest way out of this filing the pump surface (no cost) new cooper line with fittings (approx. $ 5) compared to steel copper plated for $ 25. ken ct
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| 51woodie | -- 04-23-2020 @ 6:33 AM |
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I made the suggestion on cutting off the ends, based on the picture that DJ posted. That line was replaced at some point, with a piece that is longer than the original. With some straightening and re-bending, there would be lots of tubing to play with. The cutoff is only about 3/8 to 1/2" per end. From the picture, it looks like the line is almost touching the oil filter. It cost me $1.25 for two ferules when I repaired the leak on my'46. Also, an old time plumber told me what he considered the correct way to make this connection, and that is to put the nut and ferule on the tube, insert the tube into the housing and start the nut. Push the tube in until it bottoms out, back off about 1/16 of an inch, then tighten the nut. He explained, if the nut is tightened with the tube bottomed, the ferule may not crimp tightly on the line. Just some thoughts. Denis carpenter has two options: $6.00 kit 91A-9369-A or, $30.00 pre-bent kit 8BA9369-A
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| ken ct. | -- 04-23-2020 @ 8:24 AM |
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Your suggestion would work if he has excess tubing there. Wont help if nut is bottomed out against the FP housing before the ferrel is totally crimpted on line and making good thight seal against the bevel in carb. Ive run into this a few times before . ken ct
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| DJ | -- 04-23-2020 @ 5:02 PM |
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Thanks for all the input guys. I’ve got the new steel replacement line on order. Hopefully it doesn’t require too much bending to fit. I’ll let you know how it goes.
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| DJ | -- 05-02-2020 @ 1:02 PM |
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Got the new steel line on. Was not without some challenges. I had to cut 3/8” off the fuel pump end to get it to line up. This seemed easier to achieve the proper fit and angle than bending the line. I torqued the line attempting to leave the 1/16 gap like 51woodie recommended. I thought it was tight. Started it up and leaked from both ends. I was able to tighten both up. Ran again and was dry. I’ll keep an eye on it.
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| ken ct. | -- 05-02-2020 @ 2:09 PM |
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Looks like you have an adaptor fitting at the FP end. Yu must have a later pump W/ 1/8" PT holes which don't match the line fitting. ken ct.
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| 51woodie | -- 05-02-2020 @ 6:04 PM |
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DJ. Glad the job worked out for you. This look much cleaner than what you took off.
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| DJ | -- 05-03-2020 @ 7:13 AM |
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Ah, good call Ken. That would explain the adjustment needed. Luckily the kit came with the necessary fittings.
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| ken ct. | -- 05-03-2020 @ 2:22 PM |
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Those fittings with a 1/8" PT male end and female 1/2X20 ford nut thread are very hard to find item. Don't lose it. Glad it worked out for you. ken ct. I have restored FP's with the both holes 1/2X20 thread which would eliminate the extra fitting.if you ever want a spare one. 1-203-260-9780 cell
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| DJ | -- 05-03-2020 @ 6:03 PM |
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Thx Ken. Got your number stored. Took it out for a drive today. No fuel leaks....but getting some hesitation in 1st and 2nd on acceleration; ran fine in 3rd. Along with the fuel line, I adjusted the point gap, gapped spark plugs, adjusted carb. I broke my “one fix/adjustment at a time” rule. Any ideas what I messed up? Had no acceleration issues prior.
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| sarahcecelia | -- 05-04-2020 @ 6:17 AM |
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Call Chris Robbins in Germansville,Pa. ; ET time zone, Noon to 10 PM-610-442-2187. He has thousands of good used parts at good prices, and I am sure he has a good original fuel line for you. (Please tell him that I sent you; I want him to know how much I appreciate him. He has always had whatever I needed and he has been very helpfull.) Regards, Steve Lee
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| ken ct. | -- 05-04-2020 @ 7:58 AM |
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What # power valve are you running ?? and is your accelerator pump a rubber cup one . A original leather one works much better and a # 5.5 power valve also I have both in stock brand new and PV is already modified . ken ct
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| DJ | -- 05-04-2020 @ 11:58 AM |
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It was running fine prior to the point gap adjustment. I opened a separate thread for this issue and a guy said if I used a feeler gauge with any petroleum products on it, could have damaged the points. Well, I did. Used WD40 to clean up an old feeler gauge borrowed from a neighbor.
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| ken ct. | -- 05-04-2020 @ 12:50 PM |
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The WD-40 would have cleaned it suffisently. Did you set @ .015 and plugs @ .030 ?? ken ct
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| DJ | -- 05-05-2020 @ 6:07 AM |
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Yes, set gaps to those specs.
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| TomO | -- 05-05-2020 @ 6:45 AM |
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Setting used points with a feeler gauge is a NO-NO. Due to material transfer, you do not have a smooth and consistent surface to measure, so your .015" could actually be anywhere from .010" -.020". Your best bet is to get new points and set them with a dwell meter. Filing points was a common practice in the 1930's but it has been proven that it is only an emergency measure. Few people can get a good, perpendicular surface on both contact points and you usually end up with misaligned points. Tom
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| ken ct. | -- 05-05-2020 @ 10:12 AM |
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Yes your right ,had a senior moment on the used points, thanks for correcting Tom O. ken ct. Also have good usa made new points OPPS points are for late helmet and crab. NOT for 8BA engnies. ken ct
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| DJ | -- 05-07-2020 @ 3:45 PM |
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Update - first, believe my acceleration issue was loose wires at the distributor cap. I reworked the ends and got them to tighten up. Test ran and acceleration was fine. I found a collection of used diagnostic tools. For $30, thought they might be worth it. Disconnected vacuum advance. Hooked the dwell meter up and it read 44. My book said dwell for broken in points should be 58 to 63. I tried tightening gap to increase dwell., but couldn’t get it above 44. I bought and installed new points at Napa. Gapped at 15, and got dwell up to 46. Car seems to be running nice. I adjusted the carb settings slightly. I’m not sure if tester is accurate? Posted the results of each test. I hooked the black and red leads up to battery and yellow lead to negative side of coil. Calling it good for now. Open for suggestions as always.
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