| Chip | -- 03-27-2020 @ 5:36 AM |
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Has anybody figured out how to prime a fuel pump without a proper electric pump after the car has been sitting a week or more. I Installed an "ES8902 AIRTEX" electric pump and it worked great for 6 years. Cannot find replacement, not made anymore. New Part with same stock number does not work the same as the old one. Any suggestions? Checked Carter Pumps and they do not have it or could not recommend anyone.
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| 51woodie | -- 03-27-2020 @ 6:11 AM |
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Chip. I'm not sure which "new one" you refer to, but Summit has E8902 pumps available as per the link below. This is the pump I use for "priming" my stock '46 Super Deluxe and it works for me. Note: for some reason the picture of the pump mounted on the frame rail downloaded upside down. The filter is actually on the tank end of the pump. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atx-e8902
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| TomO | -- 03-27-2020 @ 7:59 AM |
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If you use a one piece steel line from the tank to the flex line, a good flex line and properly installed ferrules, the original type pump should self prime in about 30 seconds of starter cranking. The sediment bowl should have some fuel left in it, even after a month long storage and if your carburetor is not leaking, it should also have enough fuel to start the engine with minimal cranking. Don't be afraid to use the choke, it will help prime the system and give a rich mixture to start a cold engine. Add a fuel stabilizer to your fuel every time you fill up. Stabil recommends that you use 2 oz for every 5 gallons. Other brands have their recommendations on the label. This helps to keep the fuel fresh and makes your car start faster. IMHO electric fuel pumps and added filters cause as many problems as they cure. Every additional connection is a potential source for a vacuum leak. A clean tank and the fuel pump screen should keep the fuel clean enough for a carburetor. Tom
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 03-28-2020 @ 7:28 AM |
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I had the same problem for years, had my 37 CABRIOLET since 1975 this is what I have found most of the time it is a flex hose connections, that are not sealing properly this is on the in side of the pump and has no pressure. its funny that gas does not leak out, from here, but over time the air leaks in, from the firewall to the fuel pump, OLD PARTS CELLAR in MASS , Sells little tapered copper washers that cure the no starting after sitting, Make a tight leak free connection replacing with a new modern fuel flex line also would be a good idea at that time, what is happening the gas drains back to the tank, , cause air in the line, BELIEVE it or NOT, [ if you have a full tank this might not happen,] remember turning the engine over also pumps oil preventing dry starts, !!! I see no need to install a electric fuel pump that will cause more problems I am with KEN in CONN, on this, get a good rebuilt pump from him, with modern parts for modern fuels what would happen if float and needle and seat sticks. causing flooding and MAYBE a FIRE ! if you had a electric fuel pump installed, heads up, modern cars with electric fuel pumps, have relays that when in a ACCIDENT turn the PUMP OFF,,!!! hope this helps 1937Ragtopman This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 3-28-20 @ 1:50 PM
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| carcrazy | -- 03-28-2020 @ 12:00 PM |
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If the car has been setting for two weeks or more there will be no fuel in the carburetor. During that time the fuel has evaporated away. If you don't have an auxiliary electric fuel pump to prime the fuel line and carburetor, you can use starting fluid to get the engine running. Before using the fluid, crank the engine for 10 seconds or so with the choke fully closed to allow engine cranking vacuum to help pull fuel into the carburetor and allow the oil pump to circulate oil throughout the engine to avoid a dry start. Let the starter rest for awhile and attempt to start the engine again. If it still won't start, spray some starting fluid into the air intake for three seconds. Crank the engine again and it should start.
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| juergen | -- 03-29-2020 @ 8:04 AM |
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I got a 41 Ford from my uncle in New York around 1960. It had a hard time starting especially in the winter when it was cold and the battery draining fast. I asked him how he started it all the time. He told me to look for the 3/8 hole he drilled into the top of the air cleaner. He always had an oil can filled with gas in the car. He said to crank it a few times, then open the hood and squirt some gas into the hole. Started every time. So even in the good old days it was good to prime the engine before starting. It doesn't take much with an electric pump and shut it off after the clicking slows.
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| transbytip | -- 03-30-2020 @ 8:57 PM |
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May sound crude but it works for me on my 36 take gas cap off wipe good then put your mouth over pipe&blow like crazy it will fill things to start let pressure off easy or you could get wet Cliff. with reguards Cliff. Tipton
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| 51woodie | -- 03-31-2020 @ 6:27 AM |
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I started my '46 yesterday, for the first time since last October. Stock 59A with 6V + ground, 15-40 Rotella oil, and the temperature in the garage was 34 Deg. F. Turned on the ignition, 15 seconds on the electric pump then off, choke out, two shots on the gas pedal, hit the start button and fire up after a very few turns. I was surprised at how easy it started with the cold temperature, as I usually wait for warmer weather to start up. Being cooped up with this virus thing, I thought I'd go out to the garage (no heat) and tinker with the Coupe. Too cold to play with tools, ergo the start up. Can't wait to get it on the road for another season.
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| kubes40 | -- 03-31-2020 @ 8:40 AM |
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I started my '36 roadster up just last Sunday. First time since late December. Pulled the choke, applied a few pumps (maybe six or seven) of the gas pedal, and hit the floor switch... after about 15 seconds, it started up. Smoothed out within another 10 seconds or so. Amazingly enough, all with unleaded gas in the tank, no electric fuel pump and 6v. Proof that a properly restored and maintained vehicle will start and run just fine without any unnecessary modifications. Mike "Kube" Kubarth This message was edited by kubes40 on 3-31-20 @ 8:41 AM
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| JayChicago | -- 03-31-2020 @ 9:51 AM |
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Me too. My car starts after winter hibernation every time. I crank the starter for a 5 second interval, then let the starter cool a minute. Fires on the third cranking. So far, never experienced vapor lock, although I don't drive it in extreme heat. No need to alter the originality of the car with an electric pump.
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| wmsteed | -- 04-01-2020 @ 10:50 AM |
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I have somewhat of a different point of view when it comes to electric fuel pumps, especially on EV8F's, RV's with carbs and boats with inboard engines. During the early years of my youth EV8 Fords was a very common everyday vehicle. The fuel pumps on the EV8 Fords failed on a regular basis and on a hot summer day vapor lock was very common in heavy traffic or traveling in the mountains on steep grades. Having owned a '41 Ford prior to my '36 I was very aware of the unreliability of the Ford fuel pumps. Within a year of buying my '36 the fuel pump quit late at night on a very remote highway in Central Nevada. Fortunately I had bought an electric pump which I had not installed in the car, got the pump and some tools out of the trunk, made a temp install of the electric pump and was up and running in less than an hour. In recent years I have found that many of the electric pumps are rotary type which don't work well when hooked in tandem with a stock pump. I currently have electric pumps wired into my boat, 36 Ford and 39 Plym conv and '56 Ford T-bird. Bill 36 5 win delx cpe
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