| pbc64 | -- 05-30-2010 @ 3:10 PM |
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can anyone tell me the difference between the new style hood hinges and early style what do i look for will they interchange? thank you paul
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| supereal | -- 05-31-2010 @ 8:43 AM |
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The hood hinges used in '41 were changed late in that year, then remained the same thru '48. Only the later version is available as part number 21A-16796/7, about $50 for the pair at C&G (800/266-0470). They should interchange, but check with the vendor.
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| tbirdhandyman | -- 05-31-2010 @ 10:05 AM |
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Paul, The early hinges were two piece, in that the hood arm and support (91A-16782/3) bolted onto the fire wall. The late hinges had a much larger bracket that the springs attached to. If your car originally had the early hinges, there should be two 1/4 x 20 studs sticking out of the firewall in the hinge area on each side. Attached is a photo of the late hinges. Tbirdhandyman
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| pbc64 | -- 05-31-2010 @ 12:55 PM |
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thank you for the replys and picture i had this car thirty years and never realized there were two different styles until i was looking on ebay for a pair i have the early style with the two bolts sticking out of the firewall i will look for the right ones instead of repruduction thanks again paul
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| curts41 | -- 06-01-2010 @ 6:47 AM |
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pbc64 I too have the early 41 hinges and have tried to find replacements as mine are starting to separate at the rivets. If you do find some please post your source on the forum Thank you, Curt Krueger curts41
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| TomO | -- 06-01-2010 @ 7:09 AM |
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The Support arms withe the springs are reproduced and the reproductions work very well on the 39-40 hoods. The links are unique to the 41 and are not being reproduced. Bob Drake has them in his catalog. Tom
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| supereal | -- 06-01-2010 @ 8:18 AM |
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If the rivets are loose, you can replace them with bolts secured with Nylock nuts that will stay in place even when the joints are adjusted to swing smoothly. If the holes are elongated, drill them out for oversized bolts. If you can find them, the wavy spring washers between the arms and the mounts will reduce any rattling. We have also made washers by cutting them out of the plastic containers are made of.
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| pbc64 | -- 06-01-2010 @ 4:49 PM |
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yes if i find a source i will post a couple of years ago i tried that idea with the bolts inplace of rivets the bolt with the nylon nut the tolerence has two be just right and i can not get them perfect for some reason the hood will not come down even and i have two push the front of the hood into the locking mechanism with hood down its perfect so i know the front end is true which means i have a bad hinge paul
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| supereal | -- 06-02-2010 @ 9:08 AM |
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Adjusting the nut on the replacement bolt is tricky. It must be "just right" or the hood won't drop into place. That's why we make and insert thin plastic "washers" between the arms and the mount to help make the pieces slide. Adjusting a hood is one of the most difficult procedures. Often, worn hinge pivots require resetting of the hinge mounts after the pivots have been renewed. It is also very helpful to replace the hood springs, as the old ones usually have lost much of their tension that helps seat the hood.
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| tbirdhandyman | -- 06-04-2010 @ 7:56 PM |
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I have a procedure that makes adjusting these hoods eaiser than adjusting the cowl vent. 1. Place padding along upper cowl & on top of fender toward the hinge end. 2. Loosen nut on inside of hinge body (in car) 3. Remove two bolts on hinge body at cowl (under hood). One at a time. 4. Make 4 1/2" X 1" straps (1/4" thick)& drill & tap a hole in the center. Replace the bolts (#3) & thread into these new self-holding nuts. 5. Be sure that hinge body will move up & down with nut (#2) backed off. If you have hood hinge pad #78-16746/7 between hinge & cowl, it will probably be stuck. Be sure it will move freely. 6. Start the adjustments with both hinges loose @ all bolts. (Dr.side should in snug) 7. Pass side: Have a person hold the hood in a position that you can get to the bolts with the new self holding nut straps. (About 2 feet @ front latch) 8. Place an object ( I use a piece of redwood 1/2" thick, 3" wide, & 6" long) on top of fender at the rear. Use a pry bar to get under the hinge body & pry hinge unit UP as far as you can get it. 9. Have the hood-holder gently shove the hood back on the pass side while someone else holds the rear of hood down @ the cowl. The center line of hood will be to the left of center @ this point. (No problem) 10. Reach under hood opening & tighten the two bolts with the self holding nuts, & have someone tighten the nut inside of the car. 11. Drivers side: Now do the same thing on Drivers side - you may have to fine-tune each side again, but the hood will fit & stay down @ the rear & cowl area. 12. If this is a show-car, you can remove the hinge/cowl bolts one @ a time & put the proper nut in place of the tapped strap. 13. Photo shows my '41 Mercury with a regular nut over the tapped strap. By using these strap nuts - you can tighten the bolts with the hood up only a little bit, which makes it much eaiser on you and the hood-holder. It worked for me on six hoods.
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| pbc64 | -- 06-05-2010 @ 8:47 AM |
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thank you for the replys my hinges are just worn out i will try the plastic washers i was experimenting with copper and steel washers which could be a problem paul
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