| stewgibb | -- 05-30-2010 @ 2:22 PM |
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I have a 1936 tudor sedan with 21,260 miles I am selling for an estate. I can start it but the carb leaks so I don't try to run it. Should I redo the carb or is it better all original?
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| supereal | -- 05-30-2010 @ 2:49 PM |
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Fixing the carb won't affect the value of the car, and will likely enhance it. Cars that run, and can be driven usually command better prices and quicker sales. We won't consider any other kind.
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| CharlieStephens | -- 05-30-2010 @ 3:10 PM |
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Hopefully someone will post how to identify the original carburetor. If I tried it would be a guess and that is dangerous. If you have an original by all means have it rebuilt (and be sure who ever does it returns your original carburetor). If you don't have an original maybe the person doing the rebuilding can supply a correct core and will give you some credit on yours. Post the numbers cast into the carburetor and someone may be able to identify them. Post your general location and maybe someone will know a good rebuilder. Charlie Stephens This message was edited by CharlieStephens on 5-30-10 @ 3:12 PM
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| stewgibb | -- 05-30-2010 @ 3:35 PM |
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The car is in Harpers Ferry, WV. It appears to be the seals. When I put gas in to start it it run out. I believe I have them in a rebuild kit. Should I assume rebuilding the carb is the better way to go. Right now the car I believe is as it was from the factory except for 39 brakes and a radio added in the 50's. I was told there are factory markings still on the frame. This message was edited by stewgibb on 5-30-10 @ 3:43 PM
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| CharlieStephens | -- 05-30-2010 @ 4:25 PM |
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It would be valuable to contact the local Early Ford V8 Club chapter in your area (see home page or http://www.earlyfordv8.org/early-ford-directory.cfm) and ask if one of their members is knowledgeable on the 1936 and find out if they could give you advice. When you finally advertise it be sure that it goes into the newsletters of the local chapters in your area. Charlie Stephens
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| supereal | -- 05-31-2010 @ 8:37 AM |
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The usual reason for the carb to run over is either an obstacle in the float needle port that prevents seating, or a float that has a leak. Some early carbs used a varnished cork float that often falls apart, or loses its buoyancy. Brass floats leak where they are soldered. Old gas forms a hard substance when it evaporates, and your problem is not rare. Carefully remove the top of the carb and inspect the float. The needle can be examined if you pull the pin holding the float to the body of the carb. Chances are you can remove any obstacle with a piece of fine wire inserted into the needle seat.
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