| Mr Rogers | -- 08-01-2019 @ 9:40 AM |
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Joining EF V-8 has been a blessing for me. A great group of followers and a vast amount of information!! The original bolts are situated in an up position prohibiting "loosening juice" from doing it's job. I'd like to change the gaskets, there're leaking. Have thought of taking the car to a muffler shop. Would like to replace the gaskets myself w/o breaking the bolt heads OFF!! I don't have a torch for heating them up. Thoughts?
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| carcrazy | -- 08-01-2019 @ 10:35 AM |
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You can buy a propane torch at your local hardware store to heat the bolts. Beeswax candles can be touched to the red hot surface of the bolts after you have heated them. Apply the melted beeswax (it becomes less vicious than water) to the joint between the bolt and the exhaust manifold so it can "wick" into the threaded joint and allow the bolt to be removed. Be patient, it may take several cycles of heating and applying liquid beeswax before you will be able to remove the bolts.
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| ford38v8 | -- 08-01-2019 @ 10:40 AM |
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A muffler shop is just as capable of breaking bolts as you are. Ask me how I know. I'd get a propane torch and go for it. Heat it up and it'll suck up a little juice (Acetone/ATF) while its hot. Take your time, tease it and tap it, and use a 6 point, not a 12 point. Once it moves a bit, remember it can still break if you muscle it, so continue to tease it out. Alan
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| wmsteed | -- 08-01-2019 @ 10:59 AM |
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I can be a very tricky job to remove old nuts/bolts without breaking, stripping, rounding the head off. The trick is to take your time, don't just put an air wrench on the bolt and hit the trigger. Generally speaking a 3/8" ratchet with a six point socket works best. Use a short extention on the socket if needed. I like to apply a little pressure to the fastener being removed, if I get movement I will turn the socket a small amount, to loosen, then back to tight, repeating this procedure to slowly remove the fastener. Sometime I will spray some "BLASTER" on the fastener, after the initial loosening. I also will use a HD heat gun to warm up fasteners that don't want to let go. Another neat trick is to put a socket with an extention on it and smack same with a light hammer a few times. When you re-assemble the parts it is a good idea to use a tread sealant on the fasteners. Bill 36 5 win delx cpe
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| supereal | -- 08-01-2019 @ 1:47 PM |
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The odds of either getting exhaust manifold bolts out or tightened without breaking one or more out are not in your favor. The heating and cooling cycles have annealed the bolts, making them soft, and penetrating oil is unlikely to loosen any. At our shop we weld a nut on all broken bolts. The heat of welding makes them easy to remove with a wrench. Most good shop know this trick, so check ahead of need.
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| 3w2 | -- 08-01-2019 @ 6:11 PM |
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Alan and Bill, I agree wholeheartedly about the socket choice. Twelve-point sockets have no place in a well-equipped garage. (And for those who say you need them in tight places in order to advance to the next tooth, my advice is to buy a better ratchet with finer teeth.)
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 08-02-2019 @ 11:00 AM |
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1936 exhaust manifold bolts you can run the engine to heat up the nuts and bolts, besides a torch, WEAR GLOVES,,,, do one at a time to loosen, lube and tighten them back up , till all are ready to come off,at one time,keeps the noise down, use plenty of rust buster, get the good stuff, do it outside because of the smoke, I did this to my 37 and replaced all the hardware with stainless steel, have a boat supply place up the street, use 6 point sockets and wrenches, take your time, one at a time, till all are able to be removed, also make sure the flanges are clean and flat, so gaskets stay tight, and check the manifolds for Cracks, my 2 cents 37Ragtopman
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