| Mark46-48 | -- 07-16-2019 @ 9:19 AM |
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I know that installing lap belts is not a big deal but has anyone had experience putting 3-point lap/shoulder belts in a 46-48 coupe (or sedan)? Is it even feasible without modifying the B pillar?
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| 51woodie | -- 07-16-2019 @ 2:03 PM |
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Mark I installed lap belts in my '46 and thought about shoulder belts at the time. Someone on the Forum may have an idea of how to do that, but I didn't want to remove interior pieces to figure out if it is feasible without welding etc.. I bought my seatbelts and mounting hardware angles from Seat Belts Plus. I made 1/8 x 4 x 4 reinforcing plates for under the floor pan, with GR5 bolts and nylon lock nuts. I found the 60" belts that I bought are a bit short for larger people, and should have ordered 70" belts. PS I don't know why the pictures always turn 90 deg.
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| therunwaybehind | -- 07-16-2019 @ 2:54 PM |
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I installed Buick belts in my 1948 in 1957. The problem I found was a lack of solid anchoring points toward the center of the car. To the outside you can drill through the frame but inside is only the curved and multiple runs of the floor reinforcement. As to up by the interior lights--- I am familiar with anchors that go up over the left shoulder and have retractors that were in cars after 1973. They would mount to the floor and could also have bolts going through the frame there. Will you also want head rests? airbags? I am not chiding or teasing, but someone will. My introduction to seatbelts was in a jalopy where wide surplus aircraft belts were used with shoulder harness and anti-submarine crotch strap attached to the roll cage. Do folks slam your doors too hard and break the side windows thinking you have a post 1956 Life Guard Ford with rotary door locks?
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| Drbrown | -- 07-17-2019 @ 10:45 PM |
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I installed 3-point belts in my '47 coupe. Aside from reinforcing plates under the floor I took the interior metal trim off the rear window and then the fabric panel off the door piler behind the front seat. There I found an open slot in the body flanges running up the center of the piler, about 3/8 inch wide. I used heavy duty thick large dismeter flat washers on the anchor bolts for the straps. Starting with the nuts and several washers started onto the bolts, then tucked inside the bottom of the slot, plus one washer outside the slot together with the seat belt bracket and the fabric panel piece with the bolt hole in it, I raised the assembly upwards to the desired height and tightened the anchor bolt up. The stress on the shoulder strap during impact is primarily forward at a sharp angle, so direct perpendicular pull-out stress is less. Testing the result showed the anchor strength appeared adequately strong.
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| 51woodie | -- 07-18-2019 @ 5:36 AM |
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Dr. Did you take any pics that you can post?
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| Mark46-48 | -- 07-18-2019 @ 7:17 AM |
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Thanks to all who replied. The 4 x 4 reinforcing plates are exactly what I had planned. I'm no beanpole so I'll measure to see how long the belts need to be. I think I’ll stick with lap belts for now (no headrests or airbags) and keep the info on shoulder belts in mind for the future. BTW, the comment about people slamming doors brought back a memory from my childhood. My dad had a “48 sedan and when people slammed the door he’d go “It’s a Foooord!”
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| Ritzy1 | -- 07-19-2019 @ 9:26 AM |
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I am in the process of installing belts from Juliano's. Shoulder belts in the front and lap belts in the rear. I am using their no-weld pillar brackets for the fronts. They are specially designed for 35-48 Fords. Check out their website (https://www.julianos.com/) for the details. You can see their instructions for installing the pillar brackets under How to Install. I recommend drilling the mounting holes in the mounts before sliding them into the pillar. Good luck! I'll be working to finish mine up this weekend.
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| Drbrown | -- 07-21-2019 @ 8:38 AM |
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51woodie: Unfortunately the seat belts were one of my first projects when I got the car and I didn't think to take photos.
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| 51woodie | -- 07-21-2019 @ 10:40 AM |
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No problem Dr. I've done lots of work on my '46, then thought about taking pics after everything was buttoned up. Just the other day, the indicator light in my United Pacific turn signal switch quit working. I thought maybe the bulb was burnt, as testing at the signal flasher showed power going to the indicator light. When I removed the switch cover, I found the wire feeding the light socket had broken off inside the socket. The wire is flexed every time the lever is moved. An easy fix with a soldering iron, but a few pics may have been helpful if someone else on the forum had the same problem.
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