| jimlamarca | -- 07-13-2019 @ 5:08 PM |
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Hi, Would appreciate members opinions and comments on best engine oil for a 1936 rebuilt flat-head. Two basic questions: 1) What is the consensus opinion on synthetic vs. conventional oil? 2) After considerable research, I've honed in on Lucas Hot Rod and Classic 10w-40 oil. According to Lucas it contains 2100 ppm of zinc and other additives designed specifically for classic car engines. Not sure if it is a synthetic or conventional oil. I welcome your viewpoint on above questions or any other comments you care to make
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| 56MarkII | -- 07-13-2019 @ 6:52 PM |
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For the break in I would use a regular 5W or 10W30 and don't use a heavy oil. You want to use a lighter oil for good circulation or splash and the lighter oil seats the rings in a bit better. I used to work at a John Deere dealership for a number of years and they have "special" break in oil. This oil was higher in price than the regular at that time 15W40 but a service rep informed me it was nothing more than a regular, nothing fancy or expensive automotive engine oil. In other words a cheaper grade of automotive engine oil just for the break in. Think of it this way, you have a crosshatch pattern in your cylinders and the rings are seating in with the cylinder polishing up as well and a light oil washes down any breakin material better as well. Change it much sooner as well and don't get excited if the oil has particles swirling around in it making it look like metalic paint. I have drained oil in MANY new or rebuilt engines seeing this. As it is all I ever have used in my 1950 Mercury Sport Sedan with a 255 Flathead is nothing more than a good 5W30. Exceptions to this would be if you are in Arizona or Nevada driving in 100 plus degree temperatures. After the breakin there is absolutely nothing wrong with the synthetic oil you mentioned or any other high end synthetic as well. You could even put it in right away but if you are going to dump the break in oil sooner it would be somewhat of a waste when regular oil will do just fine. This message was edited by 56MarkII on 7-13-19 @ 6:56 PM
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| carcrazy | -- 07-13-2019 @ 7:17 PM |
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If you ask this question of 100 people, you will probably get 100 different answers! The oil I use is a straight conventional SAE 30 wgt. Detergent Pennzoil Motor Oil with 8 oz. of Red Line Engine Oil Break-In Additive. This additive contains the required amounts of zinc and phosphorus (ZDDP) to reduce camshaft and valvetrain wear. Modern motor oils with an API Service rating of SN or higher do not contain the required amounts of ZDDP to minimize camshaft and valve tappet wear in flat tappet engines. The lobes of high lift cams and mechanical fuel pumps which include a vacuum pump are especially susceptible to increased wear if ZDDP is absent from the oil. You can probably use any conventional SAE 30 wgt. detergent motor oil with the listed additive and have adequate lubrication protection. Choose one brand of motor oil and stick with it to avoid having the refinery-applied additives in the oils combating each other to produce sludge on the oil pump pickup screen.
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| TomO | -- 07-15-2019 @ 7:41 AM |
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If this is a freshly built engine, I would talk to the machine shop that did the work. This is advisable because if you have a problem, you have used the oil that they recommended. I have been using a good grade of 10w-30 oil in my cars and just switched to Mobile 1 10W-30 in my Lincoln. I will switch my Mercury over when I change the oil for the trip to Auburn. I did this because the Mobil 1 synthetic oil is supposed to lubricate better. It may be my imagination, but the Lincoln engine seems quieter. Your engine does not require ZDDP (zinc) in the oil to reduce camshaft wear. The valve springs have a lower tension than the overhead valve engines and ZDDP was not added to the oil when your car was new. Tom
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| supereal | -- 07-15-2019 @ 8:41 AM |
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When the temperature is high, 94 here yesterday, I use Castrol 20W-50 in my '47 to aid in idle and low speed oil pressure, and have for years. Today's oils are light years ahead of those when our old vehicles were new. and it is hard to go wrong. There is nothing wrong with full synthetics, but they do tend to creep from minor leak points such as the rope main seals. Given the price difference between conventional oils and synthetics, I'd rather change oil more frequently with the money saved.
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| 51woodie | -- 07-15-2019 @ 2:10 PM |
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I read all the posts on here and the Barn, and settled on Sh*ll Rotella T4 15-40 oil in my '46. Hot, I have 20 psi at idle and 50psi at speed. I figure if it is good enough for a 500HP diesel, it should be able to protect a 100HP flathead. Cheaper than synthetic and available at Walmart.
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