| Robert/Texas | -- 06-29-2019 @ 12:47 PM |
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My ’37 Fordor Deluxe Touring Sedan got hot after driving about 5 miles with an outside temperature of 74 degrees. I returned home and when I got there, I could hear the radiator boiling and it had lost about 3 quarts of fluid (50/50 green antifreeze and distilled water). Note that the engine always ran above 180 on the gauge but never boiled over until now. I have owned the car for 10-1/2 years and the now deceased previous owner gave me all the parts and repair receipts from when it was new. The car had 57,250 miles on the odometer when I bought it and now has 62,332 miles on it. (I’ve only averaged around 500 miles/year). The car had the engine overhauled in 1955 and it still has good compression (around 90# each cylinder) but it does leave a little blue smoke when starting and gets about 250 miles per quart of oil. It cruises nicely at 65 and feels like would easily do 80. It had the radiator cleaned and rodded and the water pumps replaced around 12 years ago. The previous owner told me that he installed 180-degree thermostats and suggested that I replace them with 160-degree ones. I didn’t follow is suggestion as I was not convinced that this was needed. One thing that I’ve noticed is the wrong paint might have been used on the radiator. I say this because it is shiny, like body paint, unlike the radiator paint on my other old Fords. At 85, I’m reluctant to jump into fixing this too fast but any thoughts on this and all suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks in advance, Robert.
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| supereal | -- 06-29-2019 @ 1:24 PM |
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If the overheating occurs at low speeds or idling, the cause is usually low coolant circulation. A loose belt or water pump problem is likely. If the problem appears when on the road, often it is a restricted radiator flow, due to buildup of internal corrosion, or material in the fins such as insects, etc. Old radiators can lose cooling capacity over time as the fins become loose from the tubes from vibration or flexing during use. The obvious cure is to replace the radiator. Many hope that isn't necessary due to the cost. Years ago, when I worked for a Ford dealer, our radiator shop had two full time workers repairing radiators, keeping them very busy. As to paint, that used was a very thin type. A heavier type might interfere with cooling, but it would be rare. I would remove the thermostats and run plain water before investing in a new radiator. I am the same age as you, and I know facing a big cost can be unwelcome, but probably necessary if you want a dependable car.
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| ford38v8 | -- 06-29-2019 @ 1:27 PM |
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Robert, 12 years is a long time without the radiator being cleaned and rodded. I would suggest that you find an old time full service radiator shop, and request them to do a full diagnosis and service to your cooling system to include exhaust gas in coolant check before removing and checking flow, boil-out, rodding, and specify a very light coat of radiator paint on the tubes/fins. Also, beyond your cooling issue, of some major concern to me would be 250 miles per quart of oil! Alan
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| srg | -- 06-29-2019 @ 10:36 PM |
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Mine overheated a couple of months ago (1937 Deluxe Fordor), and I started with the cheapest fix. A new radiator cap. Bingo, no more problem. If that's not it, check your belt tightness.
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| Robert/Texas | -- 06-30-2019 @ 7:07 AM |
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Many thanks to all of you who are trying to help me with this problem. I think that the problem is with the water pumps. I’m sure that the fan belt is adjusted properly. If it were tighter, it would probably damage the generator bearings. The belt in my “34 roadster is adjusted this way too and it has no overheating problems. Having said this, I notice the following. When the engine is cold, it is hard to turn the water pump pulleys by hand. When a bit warm, it seems impossible to turn them. The fan belt looks good but where it rides on the pulleys, it feels rough as though it has burned on them. The now deceased previous owner was the third owner of the car and had only owned it for two years. He told me that he had replaced the water pumps with new/rebuilt ones and gave me the old ones with the car. These old pumps turn easily by hand. I may send them out for rebuilding. You folks on this site are terrific and I thank you again. Any more info/suggestions will still be appreciated. Robert
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| supereal | -- 06-30-2019 @ 2:21 PM |
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Send your water pumps to Skip Haney. He is a pro, and at our shop we use his service. You can reach him at 941-505-9085 or 941 637-6698. His email is skiphaneyfl@aol.com. Quick turnaround, and always a fair price.
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| large logo | -- 06-30-2019 @ 4:13 PM |
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test
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| TomO | -- 07-01-2019 @ 8:58 AM |
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The water pump bushings are lubricated from a small hole in the block that feeds the small hole in the water pump. The oil is from the timing gear splash. If that port is plugged by sludge in the block or the pump, the bushings will bind. You should probably check to see that the pumps are getting enough oil before you install rebuilt pumps. Tom Tom
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 07-01-2019 @ 9:25 AM |
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hi Napa has a excellent replacement fan belt with the CORRECT ANGLE, to match the pulleys , this is very important that the belt make full contact with all the pulleys,and there is no slipping, hope this helps 37Ragtopman
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| Robert/Texas | -- 07-02-2019 @ 3:48 AM |
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Thanks again for everybody’s help. I can’t do more this week because my wife and I have medical appointments (95 miles from here) every day except the 4th. My 60-year old son-in-law plans to come here to help this weekend. He’s a mechanic who works for a car dealership in Houston but likes working on old cars like mine. I found a leak where the radiator core meets the upper tank, so our current plans are to pull the radiator and take it to a radiator shop about 50 miles from here. The owner has been there since 1951 and I had a gas tank repaired there about 15 years ago and he did a good job in it. I’m going to try to use a NAPA fan belt and if this doesn’t work, I’ll get the water pumps rebuilt. It’s a good time to do this as this Texas summer heat and humidity makes it less fun to drive an unairconditioned car. Robert
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| tgt4446 | -- 07-02-2019 @ 5:25 PM |
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I assume the motor is a flathead if so it is it is not a pressurized system so I don't know how a new radiator cap would solve the the problem. TGT
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| tgt4446 | -- 07-02-2019 @ 7:50 PM |
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I assume the motor is a flathead if so changing the radiator cap will not solve the problem because flathead motors are not a pressurized system. TGT
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| Robert/Texas | -- 07-03-2019 @ 3:32 AM |
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It has the original '37, 85 HP engine with a 4# radiator cap. When the engine gets hot , one must be careful when removing it. Robert
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 07-03-2019 @ 5:32 AM |
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you can add a pressure valve, Skip H has a pressure valve that you install on the overflow pipe, and you use a radiator cap that seals the cooling system now you fill the radiator when hot, and install the cap, this way you have more coolant,in the system and this also raises the boiling temp, each pound of pressure you have it raises the boiling temp I have this on my 37 and have not checked the coolant in years, and it does not loose any coolant, I use distilled water out of a dehumidifier, its free and a water wetter, works for me 37 Ragtopman
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| trjford8 | -- 07-03-2019 @ 5:19 PM |
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Losing 3 quarts of coolant is a sign that the radiator is plugged up and the coolant is being pushed out the overflow,. If it has a leak from the core to the tank that's probably a sign that you may be due for recore. You old time radiator shop will be the one who makes the call on this issue. The water pumps could add to the problem , but the lost coolant is a sign that the radiator core is plugged up. If your pumps were not turning or there was resistance in the pumps you would be hearing the squealing of the fan belt.
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| Robert/Texas | -- 07-05-2019 @ 3:38 PM |
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Thanks again to all of you. I got back here late this morning and decided to start working on the car so that my son-in-law won’t have so much to do. I drained the fluid and removed the top hoses and the generator. I was surprised that there were no thermostats in the top hoses as the previous owner told me it had 180-degree ones. The fan belt looked worse than I expected, more burnt and frayed. The water pumps now turn freely. I left everything else alone as I don’t think I can get the bottom hoses off, nor pull the radiator out by myself. I still plan to get the radiator cleaned or re-cored as needed. The old/ruined fan belt was marked “Mobil 7”. I have a new spare in the trunk of the car which has a NAPA sheath on it marked “B-51” but the belt is marked “50” and “Made in Mexico”. This belt is narrower where it rides on the pulleys and I think this will solve the belt problem if it is the correct length. Should I re-use the 4# cap or get an unpressured type as I understand that’s what they came with? As before, any info and suggestions are welcome. Robert
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| TomO | -- 07-05-2019 @ 4:38 PM |
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Robert if the overflow tube comes out of the filler neck above the raidiator cap sealing surface, you can use the 4# pressure cap without any modifications. The pressure cap needs to seal inside the filler neck to be effective and the overflow needs to be blocked until the pressure exceeds the cap rating. If the overflow exits the radiator in another place and the filler neck has a sealing surface for the cap you can install Skip's pressure valve in the over flow pipe. Some pressure in the cooling system helps keep foaming in the coolant to a minimum and raises the boiling point. Ask your radiator man to help you decide on the radiator cap. Tom
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| 42oink | -- 07-06-2019 @ 4:50 AM |
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Robert, Glad to hear your still wrenching on that old Ford! It's a known medical fact that early v8's keep you feeling younger, sometimes back to our "first car" years. Occasionally it can give you gray hair, but all medications have side effects. And great that you got that "young" whippersnapper son-in-law to do the heavy lifting. But keep your eye on him. He may be hoping you'll let him drive it. Cramps your style picking up the chicks. Keep well. Smile 42 oink
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| sarahcecelia | -- 07-07-2019 @ 8:44 AM |
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Absolute best cooling system cleaner is ThermoCure. Order it on line, directions are on the containers. You'll need 2 quarts to do a 16-18 quart system. Don't ever use just plain water in you cooling system! It will cause a lot of RUST to form, and you don't want that!! Regards, Steve Lee
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| Robert/Texas | -- 07-10-2019 @ 7:17 AM |
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My son-in-law and I got the radiator out last Saturday and I took it to the radiator repair shop yesterday. As the insides of the passenger side lower hose was coming apart, I think that caused the overheating. The bottom mounting springs were missing, there were only nuts, bolts and washers there. The bracket on the top passenger side had become unsoldered. The radiator man thinks that this caused that breakage. This is a one-man shop and he has been in business since 1951. He was working on a couple 0f 60’s cars. He did a quick check on the radiator and told me that it was in pretty good condition but needed cleaning. The price would be $125-150, including soldering and replacing the top left hose connection which had a poorly done weld spot on it. He said that it would cost about $600 if it needed a new core. He saw some debris in the radiator and suggested that I flush the engine out. I’ll probably use the stuff Steve Lee suggested. What would be an easy way to block off the lower outlets? Thanks, Robert
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| carcrazy | -- 07-10-2019 @ 3:17 PM |
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To block off the lower radiator hose openings use a couple of pieces of rubber cut from an old inner tube and secure them to the tubes with a pair of modern screw type hose clamps.
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| TomO | -- 07-11-2019 @ 8:04 AM |
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Check around the internet before you use any radiator flushing product. All of them have serious side effect if not used properly. If your car ran in the normal range of heat until this episode, you may just have to flush out the loose debris. Running clear water through the block should flush out the loose debris. If you do use a radiator flushing product, make sure that you flush it out thoroughly, so you don't damage you newly cleaned radiator. Tom
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| Robert/Texas | -- 07-17-2019 @ 6:50 AM |
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Thanks again. I got the radiator back from the shop. The man said that there was a good bit of debris in it and suggested that I flush out the engine with clear water only. In addition to flushing and pressure testing, he fixed the leaks at the top where it meets the tank and did some other repairs. My son-in-law plans to help me reinstall it this weekend. I have a couple of other questions though. He recommended using 160-degree thermostats, which I now have. Are these installed on the cylinder heads with the ‘guts’ facing down? If not, where/how do they go? The radiator was fastened solidly to the front crossmember with nuts, bolts and washers. I have the correct fasteners now. How is everything assembled to the crossmember? Thanks, and again all help/suggestions are appreciated. Robert
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