| 39Fordfan | -- 06-23-2019 @ 11:33 AM |
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I've got one water pump that is shot. Somewhere along the way someone posted some nicely written instructions on properly removing the water pumps from a Flathead. Through the process I have somehow misplaced the instructions and I am looking to remove mine now and have Skip remanufacture them. Would anyone care to repost Waterpump removal and installation instructions?
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| 4dFordSC | -- 06-23-2019 @ 11:59 AM |
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Here you go: https://www.macsautoparts.com/assets/pdf/macs/8501-8502_v8_water_pumps_and_motor_mounts.pdf Google is your friend. This message was edited by 4dFordSC on 6-23-19 @ 12:00 PM
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| 39Fordfan | -- 06-23-2019 @ 11:22 PM |
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Great Thanks! I did try and Search this sight but didn't think about Googling it. I really appreciate it.
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| TomO | -- 06-24-2019 @ 7:20 AM |
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You will have to jack up the engine to remove pressure on the motor mounts. Use a flat piece of wood to spread the force on the oil pan over a larger area. Tom
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| kubes40 | -- 06-24-2019 @ 12:37 PM |
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I suppose it all depends on what year engine you are working on. Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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| 39Fordfan | -- 06-24-2019 @ 11:36 PM |
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Thanks Tomo! Its been awhile since I've done this and I couldn't remember all of the tips, but I definitely remember jacking the motor to the point of taking the weight off of the motor mounts. Thank-you so much.
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| 39Fordfan | -- 06-24-2019 @ 11:38 PM |
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Mike, this is for a '39 Deluxe.
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| 39Fordfan | -- 06-24-2019 @ 11:53 PM |
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I already took the radiator out to get it re-cored. Luckily there are still a couple of places in the Twin Cities still in business that will do one of these to original specs including leaving a hole for the starting crank. I've used one of them before. They did a really nice job. Not exactly cheap, about $900 but most of the cost is for the materials and nearly half the price of some out of State vendors. When I get everything put back together I'm planning on running coolant and distilled water and probably Purple Ice. Since I'm in Minnesota, I'd just soon run with coolant. (You never know when it might go below freezing, heehee.) My understanding is that Sierra isn't exactly the best idea for a brass/copper cooling system. I like the idea of it, but have been running Prestone to be safe. What do you guys do for coolant in your cars?
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| TomO | -- 06-25-2019 @ 6:54 AM |
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Both Ethylene Glycol (Prestone) and Propylone Glycol (Sierra) are safe for your cooling system. The extended life coolants could be harmful. Tom
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| therunwaybehind | -- 06-25-2019 @ 7:36 AM |
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Looking back to what was used in the 50's, the two products are Methyl alcohol and ethylene glycol of which the branded glycols had rust inhibitors added. Along with this for cars with thermostats, 160 degree for alcohol and 180 for ethylene glycol. Later in the mid-1960's especially in California new cars came with 195 degree thermostats to give higher under hood temperatures for emissions control. Now as I saw Rabbit Ears Pass on the Trail Ridge Road in Colorado got snow yesterday maybe worrying abut the boiling point above 10,000 feet does not have to be reckoned into your drive, yet. Consider de-mineralized water instead of distilled. Sonora Pass in California probably still has 20 feet of snow or more into July or maybe August. Freezing point of water is not the danger point it's -4 degrees Celsius where ice is the most expanded and things could break. This message was edited by therunwaybehind on 6-25-19 @ 11:47 PM
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| 39Fordfan | -- 06-25-2019 @ 10:32 AM |
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Thank-you TomO. I'd prefer to use Propylene Glycol because of possible pet interactions, but got the impression it was a brass/copper system no/no. That's good to know it's compatible.
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| 39Fordfan | -- 06-25-2019 @ 10:34 AM |
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Very interesting information. Where do you get demineralized water? Is it that much purer than distilled? Is that why you like it?
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| therunwaybehind | -- 06-25-2019 @ 1:12 PM |
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I read some articles on corrosion in the 1970's in a technical library that studied the effect of velocity of fluid on aluminum where a coating appears and iron where oxygen is scrubbed of. From these I would have said if the car is going to sit and has aluminum heads things may be rosy and if it is driven not so much and if it has iron heads it is better to drive it and even fast but not let it sit. I alos would have believed deionized water was useful as it is used in nuclear power plants. But this is 2019 and Early Ford cooling systems are 87 to 66 years old and some have had various local waters in them with varying hardness and oxygen content. So---o--o I went looking for something simple and maybe even common sense. http://www.roscoemoss.com/wp-content/uploads/publications/fmcf.pdf It's like a consultants report so recognize the hugeness of the intended reader.
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| TomO | -- 06-25-2019 @ 6:05 PM |
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Here is an article that explains the difference between distilled water and deionized water. https://www.uswatersystems.com/deionized-water-vs-distilled-water Cost is a big factor in the difference. In my area you can buy a gallon of distilled water for less than $1 and deionized water, which should be cheaper to produce is $29.99 at Walmart. Most of the 50/50 mixes use deionized water, they have there own deionizing systems, so they can make it cheaper than distilling the water. Tom
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