| jamesmundstock | -- 04-07-2019 @ 2:38 PM |
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I have just finished assembling my 47 Flathead. I put all new everything in it with a high volume pump from Red's Headers. I attached a mechanical oil pressure gage. I have cranked the engine with the plugs out for about 15 to 20 seconds. I am not seeing any oil coming up the capillary tube to the oil pressure gauge. My mains and rod bearings have just the right clearance. How long does it usually take to build pressure. Nothing said the oil pump needing priming before installing. Any oil pump in the oil pan I have never had to prime the pump. They were all self priming by cranking the engine. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
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| kubes40 | -- 04-07-2019 @ 3:41 PM |
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I am certain you will receive a lot of good feedback to your inquiry. My .02ยข... Always pack the pump. I use Vasoline believe it or not. A high pressure pump is not necessarily the best idea for a stock engine. If all of your bearing clearances are in fact within specification and all bearings and journals are professionally polished, you'll be fine for a long, long time. This capillary tube you mention... don't expect to see that "solid" with oil. It doesn't need to be and rarely are they. Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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| 40cpe | -- 04-07-2019 @ 6:22 PM |
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There is air in the capillary tube and the oil pressure must compress the air to get in the tube. I would try removing the tube until oil exits the fitting. It took about 30 seconds for my engine to get oil pressure the first time, but I packed my pump. If you don't get oil there quickly, you might try pouring some oil down the opening over the oil canal into the pump to prime it. This message was edited by 40cpe on 4-7-19 @ 6:23 PM
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| jamesmundstock | -- 04-08-2019 @ 6:05 PM |
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That was the hot ticket. I poured oil down the hole for the sending unit and hand cranked the motor backward. I hooked the oil pressure gage back up and within 5 seconds had oil pressure . Cranking a little longer and it was up to 60 psi. Thanks.
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| GK1918 | -- 04-09-2019 @ 5:30 AM |
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Thats why all out builds the engine completely assembled (with oil) with the exception of no timing gear, so the cam is spun with a drill about 3-4 seconds there is oil pressure. The logic is, using the starter which turns the crank (way slower than idling) and the cam >oil pump is 1/2 of crank speed , and thats slow. Thats why a 1/2 drill in reverse may spin the cam 200 rpms or so which equals the enging idling. Also with a third hand we turn the crank as cam is spinning so all journals get oil.. Drill adaptor, nothing fancy just 1/2 stock welded to a large washer with two holes in the washer for two cam bolts. put cam gear back on (in time) button it up, test run, we have a four wheel test stand muffer, radiator an all special fabbed up for 1932 to 1953 plus adaptors for model A and Ford tractors. We are very lucky to have a shop 3/4 miles on our street. These doctors rule - hospital clean + parts counter. We dissemble and they thermo clean and magna flux. And if needed, a bore or a sleeve, I have it done there, and they charge me kind of wholesale. cause I machine odd pieces for them. Then to top off things when I met these guys like 1999 I bring in a 21 stud V8 waiting for the poker face, he says come in the office, woha; trophys all lined up from the day, all 59ABs winners that these guys built for class A oval track racing. I'm a just rambling again Sam
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