| missouriron | -- 03-13-2019 @ 11:28 AM |
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My gas gauge reads full all the time while traveling. If I turn the key to 'on' and wait a minute or so, the gauge seems to be accurate. However, after getting on the road the gauge always goes to full. I have changed the sending unit and still have the same result. Any ideas? Ron
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| MG | -- 03-13-2019 @ 11:33 AM |
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What year car? Original sending units?
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| trjford8 | -- 03-14-2019 @ 7:40 AM |
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Need to know the following; year of car, 6 volt or 12 volt, original gauge, original sender, is sender properly grounded. All this info would help to diagnose the problem.
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 03-14-2019 @ 8:57 AM |
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How is the wire, running from the FUEL gauge to the sender,? old and frayed ?bare spots,? sounds like it is grounding out somewhere. along the line, how old is the wiring harness, original or repro, my 2 cents, 1937 RAGTOPMAN I would disconnect the battery, disconnect the wire from the gauge and to the sender and use a ohm meter , on on each end, to test the circuit see what is going on, if does not read continuity , there is a break along the way, shake the wire, see if it changes. and it might be grounding before the sender, on the frame or else where, know how old and what car year,? the MORE INFORMATION, is needed for sure, hard to DIAGNOSE a problem with out a little history, if you need a wiring harness, I recommend RHODE ISLAND WIRING,comes with instruction diagram, exact same size wiring, and most important is ALL ends SOLDERED not just crimped
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| missouriron | -- 03-14-2019 @ 5:54 PM |
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Yeah, I should have given more info. 1951 Deluxe, 6-volt, new wiring harness from Tyree Harris. Sending unit is repro from Dennis Carpenter. When I turn the key to the 'on' position, the gauge seems to be accurate. At least reasonably accurate. When I start the engine and run it down the road the gauge pegs beyond the "F" marking on the gauge. I had to adjust my voltage regulator to 7-volts in order to make the overdrive solenoid engage. I haven't checked to voltage at the gauge with the engine running. That might be something to check. I have checked the wiring for shorts. Nothing weird showed up. I have taken the sending unit out and grounded it to the tank and moved the float with my finger. The gauge moves with the float level. Hope this helps. Ron Ron
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| TomO | -- 03-15-2019 @ 7:18 AM |
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Ron,the voltage regulator should allow the generator to deliver 7.2 - 7.6 volts to the battery. It should be adjusted with a test set or on by a generator repair shop. That said, unless your voltage goes above 8 volts, it should not affect the gauge readings. The aftermarket sending units are resistive type units and are not as accurate as the original units, but if you have less than a half of tank and the reading is above full, the sending unit is shorting out. If this only occurs when the tank is over 1/2 full, it could be that the float is binding on something in the tank. A short to ground would make the gauge read above full. When you changed sending units, were both of them aftermarket? Tom This message was edited by TomO on 3-15-19 @ 7:28 PM
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| missouriron | -- 03-17-2019 @ 6:19 PM |
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Yep, both replacement sending units are Chinese repro units. Another things that happened recently is the gauge was reading a little above 1/4 tank. I thought that it was finally working correctly. I ran out of gas. Is there a source for a good sending unit? Ron Ron
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| Drbrown | -- 03-17-2019 @ 7:26 PM |
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IMHO only an original NOS or rebuilt one is likely to work correctly with a stock gauge. Still have your original ?
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| TomO | -- 03-18-2019 @ 6:35 AM |
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If you have a reproduction tank, you are pretty well stuck with the aftermarket sending units. Are you sure that the float is not binding on the tank sides or baffle? Tom
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| missouriron | -- 03-19-2019 @ 3:54 PM |
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No, don't have an orginal. Might find one in salvage yard somewhere. Ron
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| missouriron | -- 03-19-2019 @ 3:56 PM |
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It seems to me that the float is not sticking since the gauge is accurate with power supplied to it. It only goes to full when the engine is running and the generator is recharging the battery. Ron
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| nelsb01 | -- 03-19-2019 @ 3:58 PM |
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If you find a yard that has early 50's Ford trucks, those gas tanks are behind the seat. In a majority of the time the sending unit is in great shape. All you need to do is replace the 'hook' end (the end that holds the float) and like I said, it should be a good unit. I have been using those for years.
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| missouriron | -- 03-19-2019 @ 4:02 PM |
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Thanks for the truck sending unit info. I just happen to know where a '53 Ford F-5 is rotting away in a hay field. Ron
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| sarahcecelia | -- 03-19-2019 @ 5:44 PM |
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You can get an original used gas tank from Chris Robbins in Germanville ,Pa. What's near Allentown Bethlehem,pa. Google him. Regards, Steve Lee
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 03-20-2019 @ 7:59 AM |
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hi I seen this on E-BAY new old stock sending unit,eBay item number:223449510323 in FORD BOX also seen NOS GAUGES, NOT CHEAP , but original is the only way to go if you want it to work correctly, in my book everything repro made,,, is your taking your chances, to work or NOT work I think the sending units from 1936 to the 50s' were the same other then the arms, being bent different and the lengths, by comparing the photos in the listing, my 2 cents 37RAGTOPMAN
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| TomO | -- 03-20-2019 @ 9:06 AM |
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The reasoning behind the float binding condition is that you said it reads OK when the car is sitting still but goes to full when driving it. When you drive the car the fuel is sloshing around in the tank and it could raise the arm. If the arm is binding slightly, it will stay in the raised position until the fuel stops sloshing and then it will slowly drop to level of the fuel. With the sending unit out of the tank and the arm in its highest position, you should have at least 1" clearance to the sides of the tank or any baffles inside the tank. Most of the reproduction tanks do not have a big enough opening to allow the original sending units to go into the tank. Tom
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