| srg | -- 03-06-2019 @ 8:33 PM |
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Can anyone give me a good recommendation for a book(s) to provide schematic drawings of the 1937 Ford and a parts book to help me identify parts numbers and where they are used so I can get the correct hardware to restore my car? Thank you, srg
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 03-07-2019 @ 5:33 AM |
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hi SRG What model 1937 FORD ? restore for show or planing to build a driver,? chassis parts list, 1928 -1937 was reprinted by Polyprints this is a good to go by, also the FORD V8 1937 Book is also what you should get, sold by the EARLY FORD V8 CLUB, check the online store on this web site, much information, hope this helps 1937RAGTOPMAN This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 3-7-19 @ 5:33 AM
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| srg | -- 03-07-2019 @ 7:43 AM |
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RAGTOPMAN, Thank you for the leads. I bought the V-8 Ford club book on the 1937. What a great book! I've restored old Harleys for the past 18 years and they have great schematic drawings and parts reference books. I am hoping Ford has done the same. I come from a Ford family, but this is the first Ford I've owned. It's a 1937 fordor deluxe. I think it's a Colorado car, but I bought it from a friend in New Mexico. It had a cheap restoration done on it years ago but has been sitting out in the weather in New Mexico for 12 years, which caused a substantial regression. It has been abused. I want to make it a driver as close to original as I can. One good change is the engine. It is the large V-8 (1939 I think) with Offenhauser manifold, Sharp heads, and twin Stromburg carburetors. Twin exhausts with glass packs, it sounds 1950's hotrod (I'm 68 years old). It has stock skirts and they've grown on me. I have a parts request on the site for original mounting hardware for them (they're scr*w*d on now). I did have a guy reply with the proper trunk support rod though! It's on it's way now. Thank you for your help, srg
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| ken ct. | -- 03-07-2019 @ 8:22 AM |
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Those skirts will never work with original ford factory ones ,orig. ones fit inside the wheel well yours are fitted with screws into the fender itself.Orig. ones have a chrome hex head bolt mecinazim at the top of skirt. Those are after market ones. !! ken ct.
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| 3w2 | -- 03-07-2019 @ 10:25 AM |
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If the '28-'37 chassis parts catalogue reprint is not the 1937 version (there were later editions published by Ford), do not but it as it will mislead you if you are seeking strict originality. The later editions have illustrations of '37 parts that are different from those used in production. Original copies of the '37 edition show up frequently on ebay and Amazon (and sometimes on this site) and normally they are inexpensive. Another good reason to seek an original rather than the reprint is that the latter is of a smaller size than the original and that makes the part numbers on the illustrations harder to read. Lastly, the hardware (fasteners, door and window hardware, etc.) section of the original catalogue is left off the reprint. This message was edited by 3w2 on 3-7-19 @ 12:58 PM
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| srg | -- 03-07-2019 @ 2:37 PM |
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I hope your wrong. I can't make out the picture too well on page 6-1 of the 37 Ford book. It makes sense though. The pictures on page 6-11 show a bent portion of a steel flange on the perimeter of the skirt. That would only make sense if the skirt was the exact same shape as the fender well. Two screws coming up from the bottom and the turn bolt holding the top. The question would be, if it's not leaning against the outside of the fender, what's keeping it from falling into the wheel and tire? This message was edited by srg on 3-7-19 @ 2:42 PM
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| srg | -- 03-07-2019 @ 2:39 PM |
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Thank you 3w2. I'll try to find an original.
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 03-07-2019 @ 3:12 PM |
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hi srg the book I suggested was that FORD DEALERS used to replace parts to keep the car going, and parts changed though the year, some early parts were up dated later on in the year. and FORD when assembling used what was available at that assembly plant, getting correct parts at this late date in time, gets expensive, and if ask what was original to ten people you will most likely get ten different answers, on what was original , my suggestion, build your car for driving , not a trailer queen,you will have more fun, Roy Nacewicz sells nuts and bolt kits.[ NICE STUFF ] for many EARLY FORD CARS he collected only 37 FORDS years ago, and he helped me out , very knowledgeable man He is in the V8 ROSTER, he is in MICH Maybe you could call him, I saw your picture of your 37 4dr, looks like a rust free car,, it looks like clear coat is not the way to go, hope this helps 37 RAGTOPMAN
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| 3w2 | -- 03-07-2019 @ 4:31 PM |
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37ragtopman' On one hand you deservedly compliment Roy on his knowledge of '37 and then on the other hand mock him as all three of his '37 restorations were what you belittle as "trailer queens". Perhaps you do not know him as well as you profess.
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| TomO | -- 03-08-2019 @ 7:05 AM |
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The skirt does not fit entirely inside the opening. There is a small flange that fits on the outside. Here is a link to a pair of "37-39" fender skirts for sale on E-Bay. You can use the photos as reference, but be aware that the 1937 Fender shields are different in size from the 1938-1938 shields. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1937-1939-Ford-Factory-Fender-Skirts-/142804957945?_trksid=p2047675.m43663.l10137&nordt=true&rt=nc&orig_cvip=true Tom
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| srg | -- 03-08-2019 @ 12:05 PM |
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Thanks for the lead. I really want to get it to drive it. My Harleys are built to factory originality, one is a 94 point bike judged by the AMCA, but I ride them all over. The fun is driving them after all our hard work. I also appreciate the guys who put a lot of work into pristine originality to let us look at the original beauty. I'm just too poor and practical to put anything under glass.
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| srg | -- 03-08-2019 @ 12:28 PM |
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Thank you Tom! Mine are aftermarket. The picture clarifies everything. I sent him a message, asking if he still had them and if they were for sale. He said on his site, NO returns, so I'll inform him they aren't interchangeable between 37 and 38. Everything is big in Texas, including prices. Holy Cow. I have a couple of nice hubcaps for the back. That kind of deceptive ambiguous selling is rampant in the motorcycle world also, and it's good to have people informing you of the specifics. Thanks Tom.
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 03-09-2019 @ 1:01 PM |
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3w2 just to let you know, that I did not mock ROY. N What ,,,,,I said that he sells nut and bolts, nothing was said he only built trailer queens, this is what I said Roy Nacewicz sells nuts and bolt kits.[ NICE STUFF ] for many EARLY FORD CARS he collected only 37 FORDS years ago, and he helped me out , very knowledgeable man He is in the V8 ROSTER, he is in MICH I hope this straightens things out, 1937 RAGTOPMAN
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| 3w2 | -- 03-09-2019 @ 5:39 PM |
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There's a June, 1937 edition original just listed on ebay.
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| srg | -- 03-10-2019 @ 8:53 AM |
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Thanks. Just got it.
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| srg | -- 03-10-2019 @ 8:58 AM |
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I have to find a way to remove the clear coat. From what I've read, clear coat needs to be applied on a mildly tacky paint coat to stick. Someone in New Mexico told a previous owner they could put on the clear coat and it would really bring out the faded color. It did. For a very short time. This message was edited by srg on 3-11-19 @ 7:41 PM
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| srg | -- 03-10-2019 @ 9:02 AM |
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I have to find a way to remove the clear coat. From what I've read, clear coat needs to be applied on a mildly tacky paint coat to stick. Someone in New Mexico told a previous owner they could put on the clear coat and it would really bring out the faded color. It did. For a very short time.
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| srg | -- 03-10-2019 @ 9:02 AM |
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I have to find a way to remove the clear coat. From what I've read, clear coat needs to be applied on a mildly tacky paint coat to stick. Someone in New Mexico told a previous owner they could put on the clear coat and it would really bring out the faded color. It did. For a very short time.
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| srg | -- 03-10-2019 @ 9:02 AM |
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Thanks. Just got it.
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