| flatheadfan | -- 05-19-2010 @ 5:04 PM |
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I drove a friend's '36 today and while driving it I could smell a faint burning odor. When I touched the two terminals on the backside of the ignition switch they really felt super hot. I don't recall these terminals on other early Fords I drove ever being so hot. The wiring appears to be new, in good condition and of correct gauge size. No evidence of any shorting could be found. Any ideas as to what is going on? Thanks Tom
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| Norm | -- 05-19-2010 @ 6:12 PM |
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Check to be sure the connections are tight. A loose connection can develop high resistance and get hot. Norm
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| ford38v8 | -- 05-19-2010 @ 11:59 PM |
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Don't ask why I have a scar on my right index finger because I didn't want to stop during a run. Alan
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| alanwoodieman | -- 05-20-2010 @ 7:11 AM |
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check the internal switch "sweep" for wear and make sure the springs under the contacts are not weak and the contacks are clean. remove the wires and take out the screws holding the can to the column switch, bet you will find the problem
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| johnpoly | -- 05-20-2010 @ 7:42 AM |
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I had the same problem with my '36. The car wouldn't start and I looked at the wire connections on the switch. The looked okay but were hot. I tightened the nuts even more and the problem was solved. To insure that this wouldn't happen again I added extra nuts to prevent the first ones from loosening.
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| supereal | -- 05-20-2010 @ 8:27 AM |
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It is common for the arm (brush) of the switch to wear a path in the Bakelite body of the switch until the contacts no longer can carry the current. The clue is the heat that is generated. The only permanent "fix" is replacement. They are readily available, and are not costly. You can see them on page 152 of the C&G online catalog. www.cgfordparts.com
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 05-20-2010 @ 4:03 PM |
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disconnect the battery., take the switch apart, look at the flat part with the brass contacts, does it have groves in it, you can sand these out if no to deep , using a flat glass and 320 wet and dry sandpaper, just hold flat on the glas and move back and forth, this will machine the surface flat, and you can either replace the brush or clean it, and try putting more tension on it, this will repair the problem, but if you run accross some new parts, make sure they are original like NOS FORD. try LITTLE DEARBORN or JOBLOT FORD PARTS, IT would be better to replace, YOU MIGHT see a increase in power, being a lower voltage going to the coil. use a VOLT meter before and after and let us know how you makde out,!!!! KEEP ON TRUCKIN 37 RAGTOPMAN This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 5-20-10 @ 4:05 PM
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| flatheadfan | -- 05-21-2010 @ 2:54 PM |
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Thanks guys for the help. A new brush and plate are on order.
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