Topic: HOT COIL


autoluke    -- 08-23-2018 @ 7:40 AM
  '41 ran like a watch for a while, before beginning to miss after a few miles.
Crippled home to discover that the coil became VERY hot, and wonder if reversing the primary leads might help.

Suggestions ?


autoluke    -- 08-23-2018 @ 8:09 AM
  Found out that I need to send the coil to Haney..

His contact number ?


TomO    -- 08-23-2018 @ 8:12 AM
  Do you have the original Ford type coil or an adapter using a modern coil?

I am going to base my answer on the using a modern coil.

Using a modern coil, the ignition resister under the dash should be bypassed. The wire from the ignition resister to the coil should go to the NEG or - terminal of the coil and the primary wire going to the condenser on the adapter should go to the POS or + terminal of the coil.

If the coil is wired correctly and still gives a weak spark when hot, the coil is defective.

Skip Haney website is:

http://www.fordcollector.com/

Tom

This message was edited by TomO on 8-23-18 @ 8:15 AM


autoluke    -- 08-24-2018 @ 3:55 AM
  Can not find a resistor of any kind in the circuit, and the hot wire from the switch is connected to the batt terminal of the coil.
I have ordered a new coil from Macs , which is described as having an internal resistor.

I'll mount this one and see what happens.


40 Coupe    -- 08-24-2018 @ 5:16 AM
  6V or 12V ?? + or - ground?? Original coil mounted to the top of the distributor??? Coils do run hot. You will not go wrong having Skip rebuild an original coil, also ask him for a replacement condenser. the 41 ignition resistor is under the dash mounted high on the firewall above the steering column. Coils are polarity sensitive and will put out the proper high voltage only if connected properly, you can not reverse the voltage input to an original coil. I believe you should reconsider Mac's ignition parts.

This message was edited by 40 Coupe on 8-24-18 @ 5:21 AM


autoluke    -- 08-24-2018 @ 6:01 AM
  Thanks to all for the info..

System is set up as a positive ground.. 6 volt.

The coil is a replacement which is secured with a collar apart from the distributor.

There are two shielded boxes located far above the steering column on the firewall.
Larger one with several wires in and out.
Small one I believe is the resistor , but has been bypassed with the two wires connected to the same terminal, rather than across the two connections provided .

I have also contacted Skip, and will send the coil on hand.


40 Coupe    -- 08-25-2018 @ 7:11 AM
  If Skip is going to rebuild your original Ford coil for 6V you will need the resistor, that has been jumpered, reconnected to the circuit. When you do that clean all the hardware going on the resistor. Also clean the hardware on the ignition switch. Inspect all the wires and look for any signs of overheating due to loose or dirty terminations. Remove the resistor 0.5 Ohm and clean the two ears. Reassemble and you should be ready for your rebuilt coil and new condenser. The larger metal box next to the resistor is the lighting circuit breaker.


autoluke    -- 08-25-2018 @ 8:30 AM
  The coil I am sending to Skip appears to be a replacement, rather than an original.
Case is exceptionally clean and reflective, with terminals marked "batt" and "dist" rather than + and - .

Explained this to Skip , who said he will take it apart and call me with his opinion.

In the meantime I plan to mount the Mac version with "batt" to ground, and leaving the resistor as is.

I'll report my findings.


TomO    -- 08-25-2018 @ 9:24 AM
  Rather than send your coil to Skip to be rebuilt, you can get a quality 6 volt positive ground coil at NAPA. The NAPA part number is ECH IC7. This is not a "fitzall" coil like Macs sells.

Tom


autoluke    -- 08-26-2018 @ 2:44 AM
  Looks like I will take the roll as a test lab.

I will try both the Mac and the NAPA..both with the resistor bypassed.


40 Coupe    -- 08-27-2018 @ 5:03 AM
  Don't send Skip an aftermarket coil to rebuild. If you don't have an original 41 Coil ask skip if he can supply one. The original coil fits on top of the distributor. Also ask for a tested good condenser.


autoluke    -- 08-28-2018 @ 7:39 AM
  I'll take your suggestion, but am anxious to see if the Mac and NAPA offerings survive.

I realize that this might be a long term study, but I am anxious to have it correctly resolved.

Stay tuned.


autoluke    -- 08-30-2018 @ 7:20 AM
  Started by installing the NAPA coil which, I might add, is larger in diameter than the Mac

Ran fine for an hour, but noted that it became hot like the previous one.
Finally realized that the steel retaining collar provided a direct heat path from the head..no wonder that it is hot.

Next move will be to remove the collar and see if things cool off.


TomO    -- 08-30-2018 @ 7:59 AM
  In 42-48 cars the coil bracket was mounted to the intake bolts at the left fron of the engine. You could try to find one of those brackets to mount your coil.

Another cause of overheating the coil is incorrect point dwell. The 41 distributor requires 36 degrees of dwell, I suggest that you check your dwell and if it is incorrect or changes at speed, have your distributor set up on a distributor machine by a competent operator like Supereal of Cliff Green.

Tom


Drbrown    -- 08-30-2018 @ 9:45 AM
  My 12v coil is mounted in a metal band near my left hand radiator hose. Over the years I've had both Bubba and Charlie NY rebuild and set-up my distributors, using my coils,, and most recently bought a "Blue Flame" coil from Charlie. As mentioned to both guys, my coils have always felt "hot" but everything keeps working so I disregard it. Some of that "heat" obviously comes from the engine compartment. I remember (but never owned) a coil that had a metal casing with cooling fins on the outside .


autoluke    -- 08-30-2018 @ 11:23 AM
  Ran the engine for 30 minutes with the coil removed from the collar .
The collar reached 170 degrees quickly, as the heat had a direct path from the securing head bolt.
The coil, although hot, reached only 133 degrees as separated from all transfer points, which leads me to believe that this contributed to my earlier problems.

Next step will be to fashion a new coil bracket to be mounted well away from the engine..
I will be sure to report later, after many road miles will provide a real test.


Stroker    -- 08-30-2018 @ 1:15 PM
  I agree, the dist needs to be set up on a Heyer or equivalent machine.


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