| 51woodie | -- 07-26-2018 @ 7:56 PM |
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I have a set of knobs to replace the worn ones for the headlight switch, choke, throttle and the broken hood release pull. How do I go about this. I believe there is a "release" button for the light switch, but I couldn't contort enough to get my head up under the dash to see. I checked for info on previous posts but was not successful.
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| hannaboy@pacbell.net | -- 07-28-2018 @ 1:58 PM |
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I replaced my headlight switch.. there is a small detent on the back.. with the knob pulled all the way out.. you have to hit it just right!
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| 51woodie | -- 07-29-2018 @ 5:22 PM |
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I know the idea is to keep the original knobs, but someone must have had to change out knobs at one time. As I mentioned in my post, the HOOD release has one ear broken off so I need to at least replace that one. The light switch I can do, as I've seen the posts on that one. Does the idea to grind off the old knob and epoxy the new one on make sense?
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| Drbrown | -- 07-29-2018 @ 8:59 PM |
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Regarding the headlight switch, '46, '47 and '48 all use the same switch body. Only the knobs are different ('46 black circle, '47 red, '48 don't know). On top of the switch body up close to the dashboard is a small slot in the switch body. Disconnect the battery and feel around with a very small screw driver blade until you fell it drop into the slot. Press and hold while you pull knob shaft out of switch. Be careful of all those wire connections on top .... original connections are factory soldered.
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| 42wagon | -- 07-30-2018 @ 3:27 AM |
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The 42 and probably the 41 used the same plastic knobs as well. The color varied slightly from year to year 41 through 48. See the 41 to 48 Ford book for a more detailed description. If you intend to have the car judged at an Early Ford V8 meet be sure you have the right color.
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| TomO | -- 07-30-2018 @ 7:14 AM |
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The plastic on my knobs was so deteriorated that it just crumbled. By 1951 the plastic was a much better quality than in 1940. You could try a hair dryer to heat the plastic and then it should just slide off. Epoxy may be required to attach the knobs permanently. Tom
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| 46coupe | -- 09-18-2018 @ 6:22 AM |
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I finally found this post. What I have is a throttle knob that needs to be removed. It's fastened to what looks like what I always called a "choke cable". I'll try heating the knob with a hair dryer and hope it slides off. I have a few more questions: What is behind the knob on the back side of the dash that keeps the outer cable sleeve from moving? I can't see up in there but something broke when I went to push the knob back in. The throttle rods are connected with a rubber hose so they will bend? Mine was sleeved over with a larger ID hose and the original has turned into Bakelite type plastic. The two rods are too short to go from inside the firewall to the T knob. This "choke cable" connects the rod end to the knob. Is this correct for a very early 46? Thanks in advance as I don't want to buy a new rod set if I don't have to. If I do have to buy who has the best replacements?
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| TomO | -- 09-18-2018 @ 8:27 AM |
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The cables are held to the instrument panel by a clip. the cable is joined to the rod under the hood by a flexible joint. Both items are being reproduced. https://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_mercury_early/catalogsearch/result/?q=throttle+cable&x=0&y=0 Tom
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| 1940 Tom | -- 09-18-2018 @ 8:36 AM |
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Good Morning--- Bob Drake Reproductions has a complete 46 Deluxe dash knob replacement set available - Part # 51A-9270-A. Price is $85.00 for the entire set. Be sure to check out the 1941-1948 catalog that he has listed on his website - "www.bobdrake.com" It may also have the choke/throttle rods on sale, and I THINK it also has the little rubber rod "connectors" too. Good Luck. Tom
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| 46coupe | -- 09-18-2018 @ 2:58 PM |
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Thanks for the response guys. I've got a Drakes catalog and as the page shows the grommets go up to 1948, but the rods only go to 1940. Do they all interchange with what I have in a 46? Also does the second rod go thru the firewall and reach the dash knob? Seems too short to go that far unless this "choke cable" fastens to the rod which is plenty long enough. I guess the confusion will end when I can get the dash knob off. It and all the other knobs are original to the car so I want to make sure it doesn't get damaged. Thanks again for the input.
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| hannaboy@pacbell.net | -- 09-18-2018 @ 7:26 PM |
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I also need to replace the hood release knob... Besides replacing the whole cable assembly.. how can I replace the knob? I have NOT tried to heat the knob.. I imagine it would just leave a nasty bulbous residue that won't let me slip a replacement onto.
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| trjford8 | -- 09-19-2018 @ 6:45 AM |
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I have heated the metal shaft and the pulled off the knob. it will slip off fairly easy, but be sure to wear gloves. I pull the wire cable out of the housing and put the shaft in a vice. Then heat the cable shaft and pull off the knob. It may leave a little residue but that can be removed with a wire brush or wire wheel on your bench grinder. You can install the new knob by warming up the shaft again and pushing on the new knob. This is a little tricky as you do not want to get the shaft too hot.
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| trjford8 | -- 09-19-2018 @ 6:45 AM |
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I have heated the metal shaft and the pulled off the knob. it will slip off fairly easy, but be sure to wear gloves. I pull the wire cable out of the housing and put the shaft in a vice. Then heat the cable shaft and pull off the knob. It may leave a little residue but that can be removed with a wire brush or wire wheel on your bench grinder. You can install the new knob by warming up the shaft again and pushing on the new knob. This is a little tricky as you do not want to get the shaft too hot.
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| TomO | -- 09-19-2018 @ 8:05 AM |
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I have tried to find a good illustration of the choke and throttle cable configuration for the 41-48 cars without success. In 1940 Ford used rods from the dash to the carburetor. In 1941 Ford changed from rods to cables, rod combination. Your 46 uses the same confiuration. The cable part goes from the instrument panel through the firewall into the engine compartment. There is a rubber joint in the engine compartment that connects the cable end with the rod and the rod connects to the carburetor. There is a clamp at the firewall on the engine side to keep the cable assembly from moving when you operate the choke or throttle. There is no need to remove the knobs to get the cables out of the car. Just pull the clip and the cable assembly comes out through the instrument panel. Tom
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| 46coupe | -- 09-19-2018 @ 8:56 AM |
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Hi Tom, There are 2 rods with the rubber connection connecting them. It looks like the cable fastens to the rod closest to the firewall. I removed the clip by the firewall that keeps the cable from flexing. I guess the question is how to remove the cable from the rod? If I can do that then the whole thing will come out of the dash? The other problem is the broken clip on the back side of the dash that kept the cable from flexing under the dash. Is there a way to take a new clip (retainer) and fasten it to the dash? I can't get anywhere to see it. Possibly the clip snaps into a recess or hole to fasten it? I really appreciate your previous post. It helped with a lot of questions. Here's the update: The two short rods were connected by a rubber hose which has turned into "Bakelite". What I thought was a second rod is actually the rod fastened to the wire inside the cable covering. I can't tell how it's fastened yet but it is larger in diameter than the casing so the wire can not be pulled out through the dash. Do you know how I might remove this piece without messing something up? Once the knob and wire are clear of the dash maybe I can get the retainer clip installed and then slide the wire through the casing and complete assembly. Does this sound like something that will work? Thanks This message was edited by 46coupe on 9-19-18 @ 1:04 PM
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| TomO | -- 09-20-2018 @ 7:20 AM |
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To remove the cable and rod assembly, just remove the clip at the instrument panel. You should NOT try to remove the rod that is part of the cable assembly. It is welded to the cable wire. The casing, wire and rod are removed as an assembly. These assemblies are NOT reproduced and good used ones are very difficult to find, so be careful. If you don't have a young assistant that can bend enough to see the clip, you can remove the front seat and that will allow you more room and less bending to get at the clip that holds the assembly in place. Use a good portable light to give you plenty of light under the dash. Tom
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| 46coupe | -- 09-20-2018 @ 11:16 AM |
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The clip at the panel seems to be broken as it is not holding the outer casing. With the casing free, the cable should just pull out of the knob? If not then the knob needs to be heated, right? Assuming the knob is removed, the correct clip has been received, I should be able to put the cable through the clip, through the dash and into the knob. Correct? I do have the cable working at this time if I hold the casing. Saying that, the connector that holds the rods together, was it originally rubber or a bakelite type of material? I'm asking since the "rubber" firewall grommet shattered when I tried to remove it. Lastly do you know a source where I can get the dash retainer clip? I can try Drakes, Macs or Carpenter, unless you know of a better source. As far as younger people are concerned they're scarce around here. I live in a retirement area. Again I just want to thank you and the other members for your help. Most people I run into at car shows only do hot rods and some have never seen or heard of a flat head. My 2 regions are too far away for any help. I'm just thankful we have the technology to have this forum and a lot of experts that can help. This message was edited by 46coupe on 9-21-18 @ 9:11 AM
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| TomO | -- 09-22-2018 @ 11:18 AM |
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I don't think that you understand what I have said in my past posts. I'll try to answer your questions here and hope that you understand my answers. The clip at the panel seems to be broken as it is not holding the outer casing. With the casing free, the cable should just pull out of the knob? ANSWER: With the clip removed and the casing free the knob, cable, casing and attached rod will all pull out as an assembly through the dash into the passenger compartment. If not then the knob needs to be heated, right? ANSWER : The knob can be heated to soften it and then pulled off of the cable. or Assuming the knob is removed, the correct clip has been received, I should be able to put the cable through the clip, through the dash and into the knob. Correct? ANSWER: You cannot pull the cable through the clip, the clip prevents the casing from moving. You do not need to remove the knob to pull the cable assembly through the dash into the passenger compartment. I do have the cable working at this time if I hold the casing. Saying that, the connector that holds the rods together, was it originally rubber or a bakelite type of material? ANSWER: the original flexible joint was rubber. It likely had become very hard over the years. I'm asking since the "rubber" firewall grommet shattered when I tried to remove it. Lastly do you know a source where I can get the dash retainer clip? I can try Drakes, Macs or Carpenter, unless you know of a better source. ANSWER: The clip P/N is 91A-9718-B. Bob Drake has the clip by itself, other vendors may have them also. As far as younger people are concerned they're scarce around here. I live in a retirement area. Again I just want to thank you and the other members for your help. Most people I run into at car shows only do hot rods and some have never seen or heard of a flat head. My 2 regions are too far away for any help. I'm just thankful we have the technology to have this forum and a lot of experts that can help. ANSWER: You are welcome and I hope that my answers help you. Good Luck. Tom This message was edited by TomO on 9-22-18 @ 11:21 AM
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| 46coupe | -- 09-22-2018 @ 4:56 PM |
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Thanks again Tom. This was a big help. Should be easy enough to follow and I'll order the clip and grommet tomorrow.
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| Ritzy1 | -- 09-24-2018 @ 10:32 AM |
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Second what Tom said. Once you find and remove that clip from behind the dash, the whole assembly should pull through the firewall and then the dash. I used a hacksaw to just cut through each end of the rubber joint so that I could pry it off the shafts. Since my car won't be judged, I found some 1/16" dia. slotted spring pins from McMaster-Carr that matched the width of the metal part of the replacement joint. I drilled a similar size hole through each end of the new rubber joint and each rod to secure them together. However you decide to put the new joint in, I'd suggest you put the new firewall grommet over the rod before securing the rubber joint. Once I had the assembly together and reattached to the carb(s), I tapped on the new knob so that the C was properly oriented, no need for glue on mine. Good luck with it! Dave
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