| jimbomac | -- 07-22-2018 @ 7:09 AM |
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I have a recently rebuilt 8 BA with about 600-700 miles on the engine since the rebuild. It has a rear seal leak, about a qt over the last 400 mi. The shop which rebuilt it told me to put at least 1000 mi on it before they will even consider looking at it. They supposedly are experienced in flathead rebuilds. The rear seal is the rope type. Do any of the rear seal leak stop products ( Blue Devil) work with this type of seal? Suggestions? Thx!
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| TomO | -- 07-22-2018 @ 7:49 AM |
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I would not use a "stop leak" in a newly rebuilt engine. Those products are designed to swell rubber type seals and they may affect the valve seals, while not doing anything for your rear main seal. The 8BA oil pan holds 4 quarts of oil, and you should add 1 quart when the filter cartridge is changed. make sure that you do not overfill the oil pan. Work with your engine rebuilder, you chose them because they were experienced and you checked out their reputation. Tom
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| jimbomac | -- 07-22-2018 @ 8:58 AM |
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Thanks, Tom!
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| carcrazy | -- 07-22-2018 @ 8:03 PM |
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Does your oil pressure gauge show excessive pressure i.e. 80 PSI at idle? It could be that your oil pressure relief valve is stuck closed. If you have excessive oil pressure the first place on a Flathead that will leak is the rear main seal. What viscosity oil are you using?
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| cliftford | -- 07-22-2018 @ 8:04 PM |
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That much oil leakage on a rebuilt engine sounds excessive to me. If he used a rope seal and soaked it properly before installation, I don't think it will get any better. This message was edited by cliftford on 7-22-18 @ 8:33 PM
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| jimbomac | -- 07-23-2018 @ 7:43 AM |
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Thanks for all of your responses! The oil pressure is 45-50 max. The rear seal had minimal leakage prior to the rebuild. I didn't select the rebuild shop, my restorer did. He's a long time restoration shop in NH, he said that this shop, which mainly does OHV racing engines, was competent. I'm beginning to worry a bit that they fouled up the machining of the crank or something along those lines. The rebuild shop doesn't seem particularly interested in dealing with the engine anymore, the restoration shop says that there is nothing that they can do about it. You get the picture
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| supereal | -- 07-23-2018 @ 8:39 AM |
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Some shops today are unfamiliar with rope seals. They must be soaked in oil well before installation. At our shop we keep rope seals immersed in oil for the next job. The ends of the seal must not be trimmed, as they will be properly shaped as the pan is tightened.. A dab of RTV on the ends of the seal is a good idea, as well. If you are using full synthetic oil, is is likely getting past the seals. Finally, confirm that it the seal that is leaking. If the pipe plug behind the flywheel wasn't tightened and sealed, it will leak, as will the area around the oil pressure sender. If you don't see evidence of a leak on the outside, it my be a problem with the rings. A compression check will reveal that. I agree with my friend Tom that additives should be avoided. An engine with that few miles shouldn't use a quart of oil if it was properly rebuilt.
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