| Hrussell8750 | -- 07-14-2018 @ 1:49 PM |
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What kind of fuel to burn in a 1940 Ford Flat head? I have problems every time the weather gets hot. I have replaced everything I could. Carburetor (twice) I tried a Phenolic Spacer under Carb to intake manifold. New old stock points, rotor, cap, and condenser. I have had coil rebuilt by Skip Haney. Replaced all plug wires and plugs twice. I am still running a 6 volt system. The base of the carb is cool to the touch after running motor up to temp. Problem is it runs for a while then it will not restart until it has sat for a while and cooled down. I am now running ethanol free fuel at $10.00 a gallon and it seems to be doing the trick, but can not say this is the answer., any ideas would be appreciated. Thank you. Thank You, Harry8750
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| MG | -- 07-14-2018 @ 2:45 PM |
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When you try to restart the engine, does it turn over slowly? I'm thinking that the starter motor might be drawing too much current away from the ignition circuit....
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| kubes40 | -- 07-14-2018 @ 2:47 PM |
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Condenser? Even new and NOS are all too often problematic. You would most likely be amazed at how poorly most are. Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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| trjford8 | -- 07-14-2018 @ 4:52 PM |
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Sounds like it could be the coil resistor.
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| alanwoodieman | -- 07-15-2018 @ 6:00 AM |
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tell us your starting procedure for a warm engine. flatheads do not like a shot of gas on a warm engine, just turn switch on and hit the starter button, no pumps on the carb
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| Hrussell8750 | -- 07-15-2018 @ 9:55 AM |
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Motor turns over easily, normally starts with engine turning over one time. Thanks for the input. Thank You, Harry8750
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| Hrussell8750 | -- 07-15-2018 @ 9:58 AM |
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I know what you are thinking, I do not use choke, or give it any fuel to start warm engine. I found out the hard way about flooding a flat head. Thanks for the reply. Thank You, Harry8750
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| Hrussell8750 | -- 07-15-2018 @ 10:01 AM |
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I had Skip Hanney check three condensers for me and have tried different ones after he tested and approved them. It seems like it always comes back to fuel, plenty of hot spark, and all new tested electrical parts. Thanks again Mike I appreciated your input Thank You, Harry8750
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| TomO | -- 07-15-2018 @ 12:33 PM |
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If you have good spark, your problem might be flooding. The most common causes are float level and power valve or gasket. Check your plugs for wet plugs, when the engine is hot. Try starting the engine with the accelerator pedal to the floor. The rubber tipped needle valves need the fuel leve set 1/16" lower than stock. I like to set it there even with the steel needle valve. Tom
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| sarahcecelia | -- 07-15-2018 @ 1:29 PM |
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Ethanol fuel has alchohol in it (about 10%) and alchohol absorbs WATER!, which is not good for your fuel system. It will do the same thing that the old non silicone did to your wheel cylinders- pit and rust them, because that old brake fluid was Alchohol and Glycerine. Use leaded fuel. It has no alchohol in it!Thats what they used in the day( 50's,60's, 70's, 80's, and that was the only fuel for all cars, at all gas stations, High Test, or Regular! You can google and it will show you where you can get it in your area. As a very last resort, go to the local small airport. All of the single engine and multi engine aircraft use it-Ask for 100 low lead. It's a little more expensive than the gas station though, because it's 100 octane!How do I know you say? I'm a private pilot and have an airplane, have to use it,and can get it at all small air ports in Florida. Now if you do that, don't be so foolish as to go to a large commecial airport. They have it, but you won't be allowed to drive to where it is! I have about 5 gas stations within 8 miles of me where I can buy it. One of them is a Sh*ll station. Regards, Steve Lee
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| Hrussell8750 | -- 07-17-2018 @ 8:25 AM |
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Thanks Tom will re-look at needle valve setting. Thank You, Harry8750
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| Hrussell8750 | -- 07-17-2018 @ 8:33 AM |
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Can you tell me is this low lead 100 the same thing as ethical free gas? It sounds as if you have had these same problems. Thanks for the help, your sugestion sounds promising. Thank you. Thank You, Harry8750
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| bigvince | -- 07-22-2018 @ 8:06 AM |
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so what was your final solution? I have the exact same problem with my 48 (59AB). Carb changed, plugs changed, wires changed. Starts when cold, stop in a gas station and a no start condition. Sit ten minutes and it starts. My thought is fuel vaporization but lines are clear of hot surfaces and carb is on a phenolic spacer. I was thinking gas as well and I am going to try straight gasoline - work for you?
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| TomO | -- 07-22-2018 @ 8:49 AM |
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BigVince, Just because you changed the carburetor, doesn't mean that you eliminated it as the source of your problem. The power valve or gasket could be leaking on both carburetors. The best solution is to have your carburetor rebuilt by Charley Schwendler in NY. He refaces all of the gasket surfaces, so there are no vacuum or fuel leaks. Next best is to rebuild the carburetor. Disassemble the carburetor and pay particular attention to the bottom of the bowl, where it meets the base. If the base gasket or power valve gasket surfaces are pitted, send the carburetor to Charley, NY for a rebuild. He will resurface those faces and install a good kit. Then he will test the carburetor on his test engine. If the surfaces are good,buy a good carburetor kit from Daytona Parts and rebuild the carburetor. When it comes to the power valve, use the one with the triangular cutout and hand tighten it, then turn it tighter 1/6 turn. Fill the bowl with enough fuel to cover the tip of the power valve and let the carb sit for at least 12 hours. If the fuel level has dropped, tighten the power valve another 1/6 turn and repeat the test. If it still leaks, you can tighten one more time and repeat the test. If it fails again, the power valve gasket seat must be refaced. Send it to Charley. You can use the Daytona float valve, if you wish, but I prefer the steel needle and seat available from Charley, NY. He also sells the Daytona kit with his steel needle valve. I have found that the fuel level that is slightly lower than stock works better than stock with fuel with Ethanol in it. I place the fuel bowl gasket on the gasket surface of the carburetor top and adjust the float level, making sure that the gauge is perpendicular to the gasket surface. When you assemble the carburetor, tighten the screws just enough to seat the lock washer. Any tighter and you may warp the diecast parts. Tom
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| Hrussell8750 | -- 07-22-2018 @ 11:52 AM |
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Big Vince, The ethanol free fuel worked for me. I have rebuilt the carb with kits,(replaced all Valves) I replaced the carb twice with new ones from Dennis Carpenter. I even took a new carb to a high performance shop to have them rebuild and bench test carb. None of this was the answer, always came back to fuel. Please see the response I received from a Sarahcecelia, he uses low leaded fuel from a small private air port. Good luck and please let me know what you find. Thank You, Harry8750
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| 1935fordtn | -- 07-22-2018 @ 12:46 PM |
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To add my 2 cents to this conversation.... I believe these cars can run just fine on Ethanol fuel within a certain degree. Now that I say that I must mention a experience two weeks ago.. I have been running Ethanol fuel and 100LL Avitaion fuel in my cars, alternating to see if I can tell a difference which usually i rarely can. I drove 150 miles to a car show on a hot day mostly highway and interstates. I had 100LL Aviation fuel in it going to the show and it ran flawlessly.. I stopped and filled up with Ethanol fuel, and the car picked up a miss at heavy throttle and then had a hard no start issue for about two minutes after I got home. I felt like it was trying to vapor lock the whole way home I took a sample of the fuel to a friend of mine to test the ethanol content. It came back as 17%.. Drained the fuel, and put in 87 octane from my local gas station that sells ethanol free, and it runs great again.
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| Chascwell2 | -- 07-22-2018 @ 3:23 PM |
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It sounds like you may be experiencing a build up of line pressure forcing excess fuel into the carb, causing flooding The line from the pump to the carb is often absorbing heat from the engine and expanding the fuel in the line after the engine is shut off in high heat conditions, referred to as "Hot soak". One solution is to remove the fuel pump and take the outlet valve to a local jeweler and have him drill a .o1o dia hole in the fiber valve so when the pressure builds it will flow back to the tank and not into the carb. The small hole will not effect fuel flow under normal circumstances. This can be checked after a hot soak period just to see if fuel is leaking out of the base of the carb or showing wet at the butterfly shaft. chascwell
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| BUCKAWHO | -- 07-22-2018 @ 6:32 PM |
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Hi....I have a '51 Ford. I have purchased a rubber hose with internal diameter the same as the steel fuel line from the pump to the carb....slit the hose end to end, and placed it over the steel line to insulate it from engine heat. I also use ethanol free 90 octane gas at $3.73 a gallon (last purchase), and have no problems running in warm weather. BT
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| Drbrown | -- 07-26-2018 @ 8:27 AM |
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I always use regulate 87 octane 10% ethanol gas in my'47 but I also use an additive to neutralize the water absorption problem. The car came to me years ago with a 6-blade radiator fan. I never had vapor lock problems. Whoever installed the 6-blade fan also insulated the gas line under-body and up to the mechanical gas pump. I was annoyed at the noise the 6-blade fan made so switched to an electric fan. Then I started having vapor lock problems in the engine compartment. I switched back to the 6-blade belt-driven fan and no more vapor lock. Sometimes those old-time mechanic's figured stuff out, and I've learned that sometimes best to leave well-enough alone.
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