| autoluke | -- 06-22-2018 @ 11:58 AM |
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Took my '41 to the shop with a positive amp reading, but noticed that the amp gauge was discharging when they had finished with placing a fuse box in the electric fuel pump circuit.. Fuel pump works fine, but no charging to the battery. Could this be related to a polarity issue ?
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| MG | -- 06-22-2018 @ 1:49 PM |
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Does your electric fuel pump run full time or is it switched on and off and only used to prime the carb after the car has been sitting a long time? - This would mean your car still uses its mechanical pump most of the time....
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| fla48 | -- 06-22-2018 @ 5:00 PM |
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Turn the head lights on with the engine off (not running) , if the amp meter shows a charging condition, the polarity is reversed.
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| autoluke | -- 06-24-2018 @ 3:29 AM |
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The mystery continues.. Headlight test proved that polarity is OK...BUT Charged the battery with shop charger , then restarted to find that the ammeter shows that everything is now normal.
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| len47merc | -- 06-24-2018 @ 5:51 AM |
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I've seen this happen on multiple EFV8's, where the ammeter displays discharge at start-up for a short period of time until driven, a higher rpm is realized, the headlights are cycled while being driven, the high beams are cycled while being driven, etc., almost as if a VR contact needs to be burnished a bit to eliminate resistance, or you've a ground that needs a bit of TLC. Check it thoroughly with a quality multi-meter (search for TomO's comprehensive procedures). Likely an anomaly you may not see again, or, if you do, drive it for a bit to see if the ammeter ultimately 'pops' to charge as noted here. Check all your grounds to ensure snugness after your shop's work - perhaps something was left loose. I've experienced both a '47 and a '40 that would do this at certain times of the year for 5-10 miles until they each would ultimately pop to charge. Concerning at first, annoying, then ultimately accepted as the way it was at the time for these cars. Humidity? Temp? Never could determine under what conditions the issue would rear it's head, but with all new electrical components I was never too concerned as it would always snap to charge within 10 miles of driving max. Steve
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| autoluke | -- 06-26-2018 @ 4:27 AM |
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Tom O If you are reading this..how do I find your comprehensive report ?
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| len47merc | -- 06-26-2018 @ 6:26 AM |
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autoluke - performing a simple search on this Forum for the word 'meter', 'ALL' dates and 'TomO' for username yields dozens of Tom's great info on this topic, one of which I selected for it's focus on voltage regulator testing and copied below for your info: https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=14&Topic=10927&keywords=meter Steve
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| supereal | -- 07-05-2018 @ 12:57 PM |
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If the problem is temperature related, or seems to correct itself after driving a bit, I would suspect that one or both of the brushes are worn, or the springs have lost tension. If the commutator is worn down to the mica separators, that will also cause charging problems. Today, most of the shops that routinely worked on generators are long gone, so opting for a replacement is the usual cure.
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