lance99 | -- 05-15-2018 @ 12:22 PM |
What is the preferred method of clamping new rubber chock & throttle rod joints to the rods? I guess I could use a pair of pliers but concerned that they would look like cr*p. The old ones were a bear (the rubber was broken and were just wired together) to get off and I had to use a die grinder parallel to to the rod to cut off. The originals had nice looking two small crimps on each. What tool to use? Thx Lance
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flatheadfan | -- 05-15-2018 @ 10:51 PM |
Lance- You didn't say what year you were working on but what I have done on my '35 and '36 was to thread the the two rod ends and used a turnbuckle to attach. It is neat and allows for micro-adjustment or easy removal if needed Tom
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Drbrown | -- 05-17-2018 @ 10:03 PM |
On my '47 the OE rubber knuckles had cracked at the ends, not holding onto the choke rod ends. I keep them and installed very small hose screw clamps on each end. Not stock butt works fine.
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kubes40 | -- 05-18-2018 @ 5:30 AM |
Lance, it is always helpful to include the model you are referring to. The rubber joints on a 39 + 40 can be replaced rather easily. I use a little oil on the joint to push it over the rod end. You will need to remove the rod from the vehicle to do this. Again, a simply operation. Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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lance99 | -- 05-18-2018 @ 9:53 AM |
It's for a 1947 with a Holley 94. Here's a pic of the joint. It slides over the rods on each end but is not a sufficiently tight joint without a crimp or glue? or other?
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kubes40 | -- 05-18-2018 @ 12:00 PM |
There was at one time just the rubber part available. I have used this type of joints too. You will have to remove the rod from the car. I have a tool that compresses fencing joints and use that. I believe if you don't have ready access to that type of tool, you could place this in a "V" block and hammer in a "crimp" of sorts with a pointed cold chisel. Another option? Solder the joint. Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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