| Chuckeb66 | -- 04-11-2018 @ 10:42 AM |
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1951 Ford Business coupe engine stalls when driving. Replaced the voltage regulator but still having the problem.
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| cliftford | -- 04-11-2018 @ 11:19 AM |
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Save your old VR. It's almost certainly a fuel or ignition problem.
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| MG | -- 04-11-2018 @ 11:21 AM |
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Can you provide us with a little more information? A more vivid description of just how the car "stalls". Many times stalls are related to carburetor problems. We don't need no stinking stalls....
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| Chuckeb66 | -- 04-11-2018 @ 1:08 PM |
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It just quits as if the ignition was switched off. Manually opening the throttle while looking down into the carb, I can see a healthy squirt of fuel. The VR was replaced because the charging system was inoperative. Voltage at the battery still seems low, ( 6.4v ) but that's better than it was with the old VR. ( 5.9v ) It will start and run after about 15 minutes. This message was edited by Chuckeb66 on 4-11-18 @ 1:10 PM
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| pauls39coupe | -- 04-11-2018 @ 1:39 PM |
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Your problem is most likely ignition related. Pull a plug and check for spark as soon as it stalls. If everything is working properly you should have a crisp blue spark about 3/16 of an inch long. If the car stalls after only about 5 minutes I would suspect the condenser. If it will run 10 or 15 minutes before stalling , your coil is likely at fault. Odds are if is a bad coil. Be sure the coil is wired with the + going to the distributor, assuming you have the original 6v positive ground. You should have more than 6.4 volts while running. Is the battery new or in good condition? Are the connections particularly the grounds clean and shiny? Did you polarize the generator after you replaced the regulator? If all these items are OK, you may need to take your generator to a mom and pop automotive electrical shop for a thorough check up.
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| Chuckeb66 | -- 04-11-2018 @ 3:18 PM |
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On the charging system I have about 8v at the armature connection and at the armature connection at the VR. 6.8v at the B connection on the VR. I will try the condenser as it's the cheapest thing when diagnosing by throwing parts at it until the problem is solved. HaHa!! Thank You Guys for your help. I'm a child of the electronic fuel injection era and this is my first foray into 6v systems.
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| pauls39coupe | -- 04-11-2018 @ 8:45 PM |
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Let us know how it turns out.
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| 39 Ken | -- 04-12-2018 @ 5:15 AM |
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Check your distributor. The wire that is underneath the points plate tends to wear from the movement of the plate. It will wear through and ground out causing the engine to stop. Points and condenser can be replaced at this time once you have evaluated the condition of the wire. Ken PS This can be done with the distributor in the car but it is easier with the distributor on the work bench.
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| TomO | -- 04-12-2018 @ 7:36 AM |
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You should have between 7.2-7.6 V at the battery terminal of the voltage regulator, when the engine is running at about 1500 RPM. Before you change the condenser , check the spark. If you have good spark, your problem is probably not the condenser or the coil. It could be the wire in the distributor, going from the coil to the points or the ignition switch. When the coil or condenser is bad, the usual symptom is poor performance for several minutes before the engine stops. Tom
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