| chask | -- 04-03-2018 @ 7:39 AM |
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This post is a continuation of my last question “Shock Absorber Help” but thought it should be a new subject since it doesn’t just apply to the Shock Absorbers any more. When I started to install the Shock Absorbers on one side the shock arm aligned OK to the radius rod connection but the other side did not line up correctly as if the axle was shifted and was not centered on the frame/cross member. I noticed the U-Bolt castle nuts that hold the spring to the cross member did not have cotter pins installed and one of the nuts was way lower and loose on one of the U- bolts. I was able to turn it easily to tighten it but did not try to tighten the other nuts because I then noticed the center bolt that runs through the spring is not centered between the U-Bolt clamps. The head of the center bolt appears to be centered in the cross member but the nut end is not. (There is ~1” on one side and ~1/4” on the other side from the center bolt nut to the U-Bolt clamp. Attached is a picture.) It also looks in the picture like the spring did move at some point. My guess is the center bolt is broken due to the U-bolts being loose and the spring will need to be replaced. Now the questions: 1. Can the spring be removed safely with the center bolt broken by disconnecting the shackles? 2. Is it possible to loosen (not remove) the center U-bolts with the truck supported on the frame and the axle hanging in order to shift the spring and axle so the center bolt is centered between the U-Bolt clamps then tighten the U-bolts? 3. I’m leaning towards taking the truck to a shop (if I can find one) to have the work done so can it be driven as is? Thanks again for your help, Thanks, Charlie
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| TomO | -- 04-03-2018 @ 8:35 AM |
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You would not need to replace the spring just because the center bolt is broken. You can just replace the center bolt. If your truck is not at the correct ride height, you probably should replace the spring. When working on the springs of the car, work slowly and observe the changes as you work. You don't want to have anything slip and make a sudden change. The spring can be removed safely by using a spring spreader to relieve the pressure while disconnecting the shackles. Then remove the spreader slowly. This will remove most of the pressure. Then place a clamp on both sides of the center bolt to hold the spring together as you undo the U-bolts, evenly and slowly. If the center bolt is broken, shifting the spring so that the bolt is centered to the car is an exercise in futility. A broken center bolt can allow the leaves to shift and affect steering. You can drive the truck a short distance, but if the bolt is broken, the leaves will begin to shift, so I would limit the distance to no more than 10 miles and drive no faster than 25 mph. You should be able to get a new center bolt from Roy Nacewicz. http://www.fordscript.com/ Tom
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| 40cpe | -- 04-03-2018 @ 8:52 AM |
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As usual, Tom is correct. This message was edited by 40cpe on 4-3-18 @ 8:59 AM
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| JM | -- 04-03-2018 @ 2:17 PM |
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Tom is on the money with his instructions. A couple of my thoughts on this: It's possible that the center bolt, that holds the spring pack together, may not be broken. Normally, the head on this bolt is square, and that head should fit into a square hole in center of cross member. This fit-up would keep the spring centered in the cross member unless U bolt nuts are loose enough to allow the spring bars/clips to come down so they are not touching the bottom of lower spring leaf. If this happened, it may explain why you spring has shifted off center. Another thing is you need to be very carefull that the spring pack does not suddenly come apart with enough energy to injure you or someone else near by. This is why Tom mentioned putting clamps on both sides of the spring as you remove those U bolt nuts. I usually use two clamps on each side of the spring, attached on opposite sides. John
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| JM | -- 04-03-2018 @ 2:47 PM |
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Attached is a picture that shows the clamps I use when taking a 35 rear spring apart or putting it back together. In this picture you can see the square head center bolt and nut on the workmate table. I use a length of all thread in the center hole with nuts on top and bottom of spring, so the leaves can be eased apart as the C clanps are untightened. John This message was edited by JM on 4-3-18 @ 2:49 PM
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| chask | -- 04-04-2018 @ 11:09 AM |
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Thank you all for your responses and help. I just tried tightening the 4 U-bolt nuts and I went to 70 ft. lbs. on each nut (I think they should be 90 ft. lbs.). They all turned about two revolutions so I would say quite loose. Although I would like to try and remove the spring I don’t have or know anyone with a spring spreader locally and I don’t have those amazing C-Clamps like JM’s. Also, after reading all the posts on how you can kill yourself it might be better to have an expert do the work if I can find one. My concern there is that if they are not familiar with these old Fords they could be hurt too. I also was able to take a picture of the head of the center bolt and it appears to be in the hole in the cross member so it must be broken and not out of the cross member (see attached). Thank you all again for sharing your knowledge. Thanks, Charlie
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| TomO | -- 04-05-2018 @ 7:31 AM |
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Most places that do spring work on trucks should be able to handle your spring easily. Tom
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| supereal | -- 04-08-2018 @ 2:06 PM |
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The only way to know the center bolt is intact is to lower the spring from the cross member. The U-bolts and the spring clips prevent seeing a broken leaf. Use only the correct center bolt. It is B-5345-R at C&G. We also order new u-bolt nuts, 1147, as they don't always come off undamaged. These parts are not expensive, and good to have "just in case".
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| chask | -- 04-10-2018 @ 3:39 PM |
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Thanks Tom and Supereal, I did find a local Truck spring shop, with the help of the NJ chapter President, who is willing to remove and install my spring. Since the current spring has lost it's sprung I might as well replace it. I've contacted Mike Dennis (found him in one of Tom O's posts) and he is checking his stock to see if he has one. Other options are Eaton Detroit Spring or Posies so am looking into those. I will also replace all the hardware per Supereal suggestion. I will update how the work goes and post the results in case someone else from the NJ area is looking for a spring guy. Thanks again for all your help, Thanks, Charlie
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| chask | -- 09-22-2018 @ 11:36 AM |
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Update to this old thread. I was able to get a NOS spring from Mike Dennis and had it replaced this week at the Truck Spring shop. The ride height did not change much, maybe ½” higher with the new spring but now the axle is centered on the frame. The center bolt on the old spring appears to be either bent or broken but the spring leafs stayed together when it was removed. I put some clamps on just in case it is broken. (See attached picture) I would like to take the old spring apart so was thinking of wrapping a chain around the spring with the c-clamps I have on it, knock out the old center bolt, then install threaded rod to slowing take the leafs apart. Does this sound like it would work? Thanks, Charlie
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| woodiewagon46 | -- 09-22-2018 @ 12:35 PM |
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Charlie, at this point, with the spring out of the car, I would see if you can get the nut off the center bolt. Once the nut is off I would loosen the clamps slowly and the spring leaves should separate. I just replaced the center bolt in a Model A. Once the spring is out, as yours is it's an easy job.
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| ford38v8 | -- 09-22-2018 @ 2:44 PM |
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Charlie, good to hear you have your NOS spring now! I also think your idea of a chain is workable, and in fact safer than trying to bump-adjust the leaves sideways to accommodate the all thread while only using the C Clamps. Alan
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| chask | -- 09-24-2018 @ 5:09 AM |
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Thanks guys for all your help. I feel better about trying to take the old spring apart. Now on to the the next problem. When I got the truck home the last spot weld on the crankshaft pulley let loose and the front broke off. Good timing anyway at least it wasn't on the road! Hopefully can find a replacement or get the old one welded. Thanks, Charlie
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