| DJ | -- 03-04-2018 @ 4:10 AM |
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If I fill my 51 up, I get between a half a gallon and a gallon of gas on the ground. Obviously, not filling up anymore. I’m thinking the leak is where the filler neck attaches to the tank. Is there an easier fix or am I ready for a tank replacement? Thanks!
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| BUCKAWHO | -- 03-04-2018 @ 5:37 AM |
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Hi....I'd say, if it has to do with leaking gasoline, get a new tank. My '51 had a new tank in it when I bought it two years ago. Gas leaks need more than a "quick 'n easy" fix IMHO. A fire could easily be the end of your '51 ! BT
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| flathead4rd | -- 03-04-2018 @ 8:19 AM |
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Isn't there a connection between the filler tube and tank similar to a radiator hose? Might just be leaking there.
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| TomO | -- 03-04-2018 @ 8:24 AM |
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A radiator shop can clean the tank and solder the leak, if it is repairable. You won't be able to tell until the tank is cleaned as the cleaning process can open up leaks in areas that were ready to go. Most of the reproduction tanks do not accept the original Ford King-Seeley sending unit and most of the reproduction sending units are not reliable. IMHO it is better to repair your tank than replace it. Tom
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| trjford8 | -- 03-04-2018 @ 8:52 AM |
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Yes it could be the rubber sleeve that is leaking, but you should see dampness around the sleeve. I recently replaced a leaking tank in a 54 Mercury and it was leaking at the top of the tank. There are pads between the top of the tank and the body that are made from a jute type material and they absorb water. Over time the tank will rust through and that's where the leak happens. It shows up especially when you fill the tank. This same thing happened to my old neighbor when he was restoring his 53 Victoria. Some of the new tanks come with a dual set of holes to use either the original sender or a modern sender. If you need a new tank ask the seller if it will use the original sender.
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| DJ | -- 03-06-2018 @ 5:59 PM |
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Thanks guys, all good advice. I think I’ll tackle this one in the fall. Sounds like I’ll be looking at either a tank repair or replacement. I’ll update you later. Thx again!
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| TomO | -- 03-07-2018 @ 7:09 AM |
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There is a severe fire hazard driving around with a leaking tank. It only takes an hour or so to remove the tank and if it is repairable, it can be done in a couple of days. Are you willing to take the chance that you could burn up your car and maybe even lose a life, just so you can have a few extra days of springtime driving? I would inspect the rubber hose that connects the fillerp pipe to the tank, to see if that is the source of the leak. These hoses can be replaced in a short time. If it is not the hose, remove the tank from the car and determine where the leak is. Tom
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| trjford8 | -- 03-07-2018 @ 10:06 AM |
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Excellent advice by TomO about a leaking tank. As soon as I discovered the leaking tank in the Mercury I parked the car and removed the tank. All it takes is one spark in those fumes and "poof" the car goes up in smoke.
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| DJ | -- 03-10-2018 @ 4:31 AM |
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Thanks Tom/everyone, moving this to next on the repair list.
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| DJ | -- 03-17-2018 @ 4:45 PM |
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Update, dropped tank and sure enough, the filler neck hose was rotten. Have the hose and sending unit gasket on order. Tank seems to be in ok shape. Did not see any heavy rust inside. There is some surface rust on outside. I’ll wire brush outside. Any other recommendations? Should I still take it to radiator shop? Or should I use a tank sealer? Also, there were no pads on top of the tank; were pads on bottom. Suggestions of a substitute pad to use versus ordering those too?
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| trjford8 | -- 03-17-2018 @ 5:39 PM |
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If you have a compressor a home you can test the tank yourself. If you have a hose with a 'blow gun" wrap a rag around the blow gun(not on the tip) so the rag creates a seal on the neck. Use a spray bottle with some soapy water and spray the top of the tank and then put compressed air to the tank. If you see any bubbles on top of the tank then you have a pin hole problem. Then it's time for a new tank. If no bubbles then you probably have a good tank. If your piece of hose that made the connection between the neck and the tank was severely deteriorated you do need to check the inside of the tank for stray pieces of rubber. Also you should put in a new sending unit gasket while you have the tank out. As for pads on the top of the tank I would use some 1/8 to 3/16 rubber belting material that you can get at most hardware stores. Make your self some strips the length of the tank and glue them to the high spots on the tank. Also be sure to check your floor pan under the tank to make sure the original pads are not there. Sometimes they stick to the floor pan and do not come out with the tank.
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| TomO | -- 03-18-2018 @ 9:22 AM |
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I am glad that you are on the way to getting a leak free fuel system. The hose was the chief suspect and the least expensive to repair. I would not bother with coating the inside of the tank, unless you have pin holes. Keep the gas fresh and add a stabilizer if the car is going to sit for a while. I fill my car after every Tour and add stabilizer at that time. If I am just driving to cruise nights, I add it to every other tank full. Fresh gas will not rust the tank. In addition to Tom's advice about the rubber strips, I would paint the top of the tank. I think that the tank was just plated to resist rust in 1951 and you might lose a point if you paint the area that can be seen. Use a good epoxy primer and acrylic enamel to prevent rust. Tom
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| DJ | -- 03-30-2018 @ 6:26 PM |
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Ok, thought I had it completed, but one more issue. The fitting connecting the fuel line to the gas tank was in bad shape. So I bought a new fitting, then took the fuel line to a local auto repair shop. They cut the flair off, then installed the new fitting, and flared it again. I hooked up the line; put about 3 gallons of gas in and no leaks. Today, I filled it up, and look under the car. It had a steady leak from that fitting. I was able to tighten it slightly, but it still has a slow drip. I have drained all the fuel. The lines are steel. Not sure if original. I have a fuel filter in the line right below the drivers door. What would you guys recommend I do? New fuel line? New fitting? I’m not sure if the auto shop did a quality flair job. Thanks much.
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| TomO | -- 04-01-2018 @ 8:25 AM |
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Is it possible that you bought a compression type that requires a ferrule to seal? I may be wrong, but it is my understanding that the shape of the sealing surface is different between the flare fitting and the compression fitting. I do not know what the 51 Ford used, flare or compression, but most fuel lines used a compression fitting. I can tell you that if you have a gas leak in the line, your fuel pump will have a hard time getting its prime. If the line is leaking fuel, it will also leak air making it hard to maintain vacuum on the line. Tom
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| DJ | -- 04-01-2018 @ 11:56 AM |
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I bought this fitting about a year ago, and would have to go thru receipts to find out where I got it. Appeared to be identical to the old one. Can you tell if it requires a compression fitting?
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| Yokomo99 | -- 04-01-2018 @ 1:14 PM |
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That is not the correct fitting. You are showing a flare fitting, that is for a more modern car. The original is a male compression fitting. I show a picture of the ones I bought for my 53 Customline. I bought the correct fittings at McMaster Carr. You might be able to use your fitting. Just cut off the double flare and get a 1/4" compression ferrule to replace it. The taper of the double flare is not the same but it might work in a pinch. Be sure to check out my YouTube pages at: https://www.youtube.com/user/MatthewBergin1 https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJCdOfmXtM8xO9nXeQ-iSQQ
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| trjford8 | -- 04-01-2018 @ 1:35 PM |
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DJ, Yokomo99 shows the correct fittings for your car. I think you may be able to buy them at your local Napa Auto Parts store. I know for sure you can get the ferrule there.
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| TomO | -- 04-02-2018 @ 7:43 AM |
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The flare on your line may be incorrect. This PDF file shows the common automotive flares and their sizes. http://www.fedhillusa.com/webnuts/common%20flares6.pdf My 53 Lincoln uses the 5/16" steel line that your car has and the end is flared. I will try to get a photo of the end with the fitting and post it for you, so you will have a reference of how Ford did it. Tom
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| TomO | -- 04-03-2018 @ 9:07 AM |
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I could not get a good photo of the flare on my Lincoln fuel line. I cannot hold the camera steady enough while laying under the car and the autofocus wants to focus on the frame crossmember. My flare does look different from yours. Tom
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| DJ | -- 04-17-2018 @ 9:33 PM |
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I talked to a local V8 Club friend who has the same car. He felt the fuel line/fitting I had were correct. He suggested I go to Napa and get 5/16 OD line and fitting. Napa did not have yhe 6 foot length I needed, but Carquest did. I have installed and have taken a few trips. I’m leak free so far! I believe the flare was done poorly and was the cause of my leak. Thx all again for the push to resolve this critical issue.
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| TomO | -- 04-18-2018 @ 8:30 AM |
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Great news. Now you can enjoy your car without worrying about it going up in flames. I agree that the flare you had done was done incorrectly. Tom
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| Greg58 | -- 04-18-2018 @ 6:14 PM |
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Fuel line and brake lines have double or inverted flares, they are the hardest to make correctly. A simple repair would be a male fitting and a short section of hose, I did this when I installed a electric fuel pump at the tank. Greg
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